Manufactured In-House: The Proprietary Rolex Materials Guide

In regards to timepieces, “in-house” is a designation that carries great weight throughout the industry. When aspects of a watch’s production are performed in-house, the company generally retains a greater level of control over the design and production process. While a number of companies produce their own movements, Rolex is one of the few that takes the “in-house” designation one step further, and there are actually a number of proprietary Rolex materials that the brand produces entirely in-house.

Here is a quick and handy guide to some of the proprietary materials that get used in the construction of Rolex watches.

Rolex produces a number of its own unique and proprietary materials that get used in the construction of its watches.

Rolex Materials: Metal Alloys

Rolex owns and operates its own foundry that produces all of the gold, platinum, and stainless steel alloys that are used in its watches. This ensures that the materials on the out side of the watch that are constantly exposed to the elements are only of the highest levels of quality and durability.

GOLD

• On contemporary Rolex watches, all of the gold – regardless of color – is a proprietary, 18-karat alloy that is specially engineered by Rolex for optimum strength, color, and long-lasting luxury. Rolex’s rose gold alloy is known as Everose, and it is a special blend of pink gold that will not lose is warm hue due to exposure to saltwater, chlorine, or sunlight.

Rolex creates their own special formulas of gold from within their in-house foundry.

PLATINUM

• Rolex’s platinum alloy is 950 Platinum, which consists of 950 thousandths of platinum combined with ruthenium (a chemical element in the platinum group). This results in an alloy that is durable enough for everyday use, while still retaining all of platinum’s remarkable luster and brilliance.

OYSTERSTEEL

• Today, the vast majority of manufacturers use 316L stainless steel for their watches; however, Rolex now exclusively uses a special blend of 904L stainless steel – officially known as Oystersteel, which is harder and more corrosion resistant due to higher levels of chromium, molybdenum, nickel, and copper. Just like Rolex’s specially engineered gold alloys, Oystersteel is manufactured entirely in-house to ensure that it meets the brand’s impeccably high standards.

Rolex’s Oystersteel is a special blend of 904L stainless steel that is incredibly corrosion resistant.

Rolex Materials: Inside & Out

Beyond the metal alloys that make up the the outer case and bracelets of its watches, Rolex also creates a number of technologically advanced materials that are used both inside and outside of its watches. These highly-specialized proprietary Rolex materials range from incredibly durable ceramic compounds, to specially formulated luminous paint.

CERACHROM

• To remedy issues of scratched and faded bezels, Rolex invented a new type of ceramic material called Cerachrom. Rolex says that a single bezel made from this extremely hard compound takes roughly forty hours to produce; however, from a longevity standpoint, it is substantially superior to bezels made from traditional materials such as aluminum or acrylic. Cerachrom is nearly impossible to scratch, and its color is entirely immune to the effects of UV exposure, chlorine, and saltwater.

Rolex’s Cerachrom ceramic bezels will stay looking brand new for many generations.

PARACHROM

• Another Rolex-exclusive material is the blue Parachrom that gets used for the construction of its hairsprings. Parachrom is a proprietary alloy made from niobium, zirconium, and oxygen. It took five years for Rolex engineers to develop this material; however, it is entirely unaffected by magnetic fields and is ten times more shock resistant than traditional hairspring alloys.

SYLOXI

• While it is blue Parachrom that gets used in many of Rolex’s men’s models, many of the brand’s latest women’s watches come equipped with movements that rely on Syloxi hairsprings. Essentially an advanced silicon hairspring (which are already naturally both antimagnetic and shock-resistant), Rolex calls the material “Syloxi” because it is silicon covered by an oxide layer, which increases its resistance to changes in temperature.

CHROMALIGHT

• One of the more-noticeable Rolex materials is the blue luminescent paint used on the hands and hour markers of many newer Rolex watches. In 2008, Rolex announced its own proprietary luminescent material known as Chromalight. While it boasts a slightly longer glow time than its predecessor, the most noticeable change has been the striking blue glow that it brings to the faces of many new Rolex models, rather than the green colored glow found on older references.

The “in-house” designation generally implies that a company has mastered that specific aspect of production. Several times throughout history, Rolex has found itself hindered by the physical limitations of available materials. Rather than accepting these constraints, Rolex invents new materials, allowing them to continue to push the boundaries of watchmaking.

Rolex’s Chromalight luminescence glows blue in the dark.

 

Dive Watches – How to Use the Rotating Bezel

There are many different types of watch bezels that fulfill a host of different uses, with the rotating timing bezel on dive watches being the most common. On dress models, they are generally a decorative, aesthetic element and can come in several distinct styles. However, on tool watches, the bezel is often used to add an additional, specialized function.

With a chronograph, you will usually find a tachymeter bezel, marked with units to help drivers measure speed and distance. On the majority of GMT watches, there is a rotating bezel engraved with a 24-hour scale that works in conjunction with an additional hour hand to keep track of an additional time zone. As useful as those are, it is perhaps the rotating timing bezels found on dive watches that are the most important.

How Do The Bezels on Dive Watches Work?

When the rotating bezel was first introduced on dive watches by Blancpain in the early 1950s, it was long before the invention of the digital dive computers that you might be familiar with today, with their ability to measure everything from depth to the necessary decompression stops.

However, back in the early days of scuba diving, a simple but foolproof system to record how long a diver had been underwater was to use a reliable and highly water-resistant dive watch to measure elapsed time. Even in the modern era, a well-made and dependable mechanical timepiece is the perfect backup to the electronic wizardry of dive computers, with no batteries to die out and a waterproof case that is massively robust.

So how do dive watches work? There is a long list of requirements that a timepiece must possess before it can officially qualify as a dive watch, and some form of elapsed time indicator is one of them. The rotating bezel, engraved with 60-minute markings, is about the most rudimentary and straightforward method that has ever devised.

Just before the initial descent, the wearer turns the bezel so the 12 o’clock indicator (usually conspicuous in some way, maybe by the use of a luminous pip) aligns with the minute hand. After that, it is just a matter of reading off where that hand is in relation to the bezel as it continues its way around the dial during the dive. So, if the minute hand is pointing to the 20-marking on the bezel, then the wearer has spent 20 minutes underwater. While simple in design and execution, a rotating timing bezel saves the diver from having to do any arithmetic in their head which, as there is plenty of other stuff to think about on a dive, is certainly a good thing.

A popular misconception about the rotating timing bezels on dive watches is that they allow divers to calculate how much air they have left in their tank; this is simply not true. The rate at which a diver uses air is dependant on factors such as their physical fitness level, how much they exert themselves while underwater, and even just how they breathe. Dive watch bezels are simply used to measure elapsed time; however, knowing how much time has passed allows divers to figure out a number of other important things, such as whether or not a decompression stop is needed.

For certain underwater excursions, you may need to track the amount of time that you spend at the deepest depth so that you can know whether or not you need to make a safety stop on the way up. For example, using dive tables, you would determine that you could remain at a certain depth for a maximum of 35 minutes before you have to ascend again. In this instance, you would alight the timing bezel with the minute hand once you reached your maximum depth so that you could track your total bottom time.

Should a safety stop be needed on the ascent, the rotating timing bezel on dive watches can be used to track the duration of the stop itself. For example, if after spending a period of time at depth, a diver requires a safety stop of 5 minutes, they can simply ascent to the proper depth (measured with a depth gauge), and then align the bezel on their dive watch with the minute hand to track how long they have spent at the stop. Modern dive computers will do all of this automatically; however, having a reliable backup method that does not rely on batteries can be the difference between life and death in certain situations.

The Different Types of Bezels on Dive Watches

There are actually two different types of rotating dive watch bezels; internal and external. As ingenious as the systems are, each has particular strengths and weaknesses, mainly concerning how to stop the bezel from getting accidentally bumped or moved. Obviously, if the bezel gets knocked during a dive, it will affect the reading. If it spins clockwise, the bezel is now showing a reduced time underwater – and for a wearer relying on the watch as their only timer, this could potentially be disastrous.

Realizing this from the very beginning, Blancpain patented the unidirectional external bezel for their Fifty Fathoms model in 1953. This type of dive bezel only rotates one way – counterclockwise, so that if it gets unintentionally turned, the reading will overestimate the time spent submerged, causing the diver to surface sooner rather than later, or take a precautionary safety stop, rather than having the impression that a stop is not needed.

Interestingly, the copyright for the unidirectional bezel was held by Blancpain right up until 1983, meaning no other watch manufactures could use it. You will find vintage models with bidirectional bezels, but in 1996 ISO 6425 laid down all the regulations for a modern dive watch, with a one-way bezel near the top of the list.

Some brands include some form of bezel-locking mechanism to further reduce the chances of an inadvertent operation – the Omega Seamaster Ploprof and Oris ProDiver are prime examples. The other type of dive bezels are internal and are installed under the watch’s crystal, meaning that they are out of harm’s way and controlled by an additional crown. Most often bidirectional, internal dive bezels are not as common as their external counterparts for several reasons.

The main one is ease of use. A small crown is more difficult to manipulate than an exterior bezel, especially when wet and/or wearing wetsuit gloves. Additionally, having a second crown means that there is another potential point for water ingress and additional gaskets need to be maintained to ensure water resistance. That being said, internal bezel watches have a dressier, more formal look and are a feature that is seldom seen on modern dive watches, which is something that certainly attracts plenty of people.

What If I Don’t Dive?

Realistically, it has been a long time since anyone bought a luxury dive watch like a Rolex Submariner or an Omega Seamaster Diver 300M with the sole purpose of going diving with it. Although these watches were once regarded as purpose-built underwater tools, they have become luxury icons and status symbols in the modern era. While these dive watches are more capable of performing their underwater duties than ever before, most never go beyond the deep end of the pool.

Perhaps the biggest reason why dive watches remain among the most popular genres of timepieces is their combination of exquisite, intentional styling blended with durable construction and superior water resistance. These characteristics are a necessity for use underwater, but they also make these watches the perfect timepieces for everyday wear and use. Many dive watches, especially from the more luxury-oriented end of the scale, can legitimately serve as both formal and casual wear with no problem.

Additionally, a rotating timing bezel can be useful in plenty of situations other than your next underwater adventure. Basically, anything that requires timing of some sort, such as making sure you don’t burn your dinner or keeping track of when your laundry will be finished can be timed with a dive bezel. Of course, should you actually scuba dive, the decades of heritage and constant innovation that has gone into contemporary dive watches makes them the perfect backup for a dive computers and an invaluable extra safety arrangement.

The exclusive use of a rotating bezel is considered a rudimentary diving technique in the 21st century, suitable for basic, shallow single gas (air) diving only. Non-basic diving profiles and depths past 30 m (98 ft) require other more advanced timing and measurement methods to establish suitable decompression profiles to avoid decompression sickness. Besides being used for basic diving and as a backup for monitoring time during more complex scuba diving ventures, the unidirectional bezel on dive watches can also be used for other day-to-day situations in which the measurement of elapsed time (under one hour) might be useful, like keeping track of how much time you have left on a parking meter.

Digital dive watches usually perform the elapsed time function by use of a standard stopwatch function. Additionally, digital dive watches may also feature a depth gauge and logging features; however, they are not usually regarded as a substitute for a dedicated dive computer. Overall, while the mechanical dive watch has been replaced by technologically advanced dive computers, they still remain a useful piece of equipment for scuba divers, serving as a reliable backup timing device that is not dependant on the limited life of a battery.

 

Oris Divers Sixty-Five vs. Oris Aquis

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five is a vintage-inspired dive watch. In an industry where there is an ever-growing interest among collectors for vintage watches, the Divers Sixty-Five fits right in. On the other hand, one of the most successful Oris watches is the Aquis, which focuses more on a modern aesthetic with many more style options. In this article, we will compare these two Oris dive watches and explore what sets them apart from other timepieces on the market.

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five

Oris released their first diving watch in 1965. At the time, the dive watch was considered state-of-the-art with a rotating timing bezel, a 100-meter depth rating, and a bright Tritium luminous display on the dial. Oris also held the title as one of the 10 most successful watch companies in the world during this time, which contributed significantly to the model’s success when it was first released. The line included two notable variations of the Diver, one with “Waterproof” inscribed on the dial and an in-house Cal. 654 manual-winding movement within the case, and the other with the distinction “Super” on the dial and a similar Cal. 484 powering the watch.

50 years later, Oris would release a tribute watch to honor the original 1960s model with the Divers Sixty-Five. The original dive watch featured an acrylic crystal, a chromium-plated brass case, and a smaller 36mm case size. The Oris Divers 65 is similar in design while also offering modern, vintage-inspired amenities such as a domed sapphire crystal, colored Super-LumiNova plots that resemble the patina found on many vintage watches, and a stainless steel case with the option of 36mm, 40mm, or 42mm sizes. An automatic Sellita SW-200 Oris Cal. 733 movement powers the newest generation and offers users a 38-hour power reserve. Similar to the original model, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five is also waterproof up to 100 meters.

The Divers 65 also features a unidirectional bezel equipped with an aluminum insert and a solid caseback that is engraved with an emblem that is similar to the one found on Oris’s original 1960s dive watch. Early references were only produced with a NATO or tropic strap option with the stainless steel retro rivet link bracelet in steel coming to market a short while later. There are also a couple of dial variations that feature either older-style dots or baton/Arabic hour markers that both closely resemble the original diver from the 1960s. Between the different case sizes, dials, bezels, and bracelet/strap options, there are quite a few configurations to choose from when considering the modern Oris Divers 65.

The Oris Aquis

The Oris Aquis is the brand’s signature dive watch. Thoroughly modern in its design, the Aquis collection is varied and includes several metal options,  bezel types, dial colors, bracelet/strap options, and movements. Depending on your lifestyle, there is an Oris Aquis available to suit your wrist, whether you seek a bold tool watch or one that is slightly more sophisticated and refined.

While the Divers 65 is a heritage-inspired watch that showcases a retro design, the Aquis puts contemporary luxury watch design front and center. It features modern crown guards, sleek hour markers and hands, and several bezel insert options ranging from ceramic and Tungsten to black DLC-plated. Remaining true to its vintage aesthetic, the Oris Divers 65 does not have crown guards and keeps the bezel simpler with either bronze or aluminum insert options, depending on the model.

The Oris Aquis collection also showcases an impressive selection of models, which range from straightforward time and date references and sophisticated chronographs to the brand’s clever Aquis Depth Gauge that measures diving depths via an innovative tunnel that is integrated into its sapphire crystal. There are several movements available, each showcasing Oris’s ingenuity and ability to stay current with modern watch trends. The Aquis also includes dressier, diamond-set versions, whereas the Divers 65 does not. While the Divers 65 maintains the same 100-meter depth rating as the original 1960s model, the Aquis can withstand depths of up to 500 meters on certain models.

Whether you choose to go vintage-inspired or modern for your next luxury watch investment, the consensus seems to be that Oris is a smart investment either way. The Divers Sixty-Five and Aquis are both powered by reliable mechanical movements and benefit from Oris’ reputation for excellence that dates all the way back to 1904. Oris is also an attractive option because the brand represents great value for money, delivering a degree of quality that far exceeds the brand’s price point, and doesn’t require as much of an investment as other luxury watch brands, such as Rolex or Omega.

 

Panerai Watches 101 – What Model Do I Have?

To most casual watch observers, almost all Panerai watches look basically the same. After all, the brand adheres to a strict design language across all of its models, derived from vintage models that date back to the mid-20th Century. These design traits include generously sized cushion-shaped cases, minimalist dials with a mix of Arabic numerals and stick hour markers, plenty of lume, and prominent winding crowns. However, there are some important, albeit subtle variances, between the various Panerai watches. So, if you’re at all unsure about which Panerai model you have, read on for some easy ways to spot the telltale signs.

Do you know what kind of Panerai watch you have?

Panerai Watches – Dial Markings

Today, Panerai makes three main case shapes: Luminor, Radiomir, and Submersible. Yet, there are also several variations of these cases like the Luminor 1950 and the Radiomir 1940, which we will get to below. Panerai will often (but not always) include the name of the main model on the dial of the watch. So your first step in finding out what Panerai model you have is to check if there’s a name on the dial.

It’s important to note that the Submersible was once part of the Luminor collection, which explains why you’ll sometimes see “Luminor Submersible” on the dial. Panerai officially established the Submersible as a separate collection in 2019, so all Panerai Submersible watches produced before then will have both the Luminor and Submersible names on the dial.

Panerai Radiomir watches do not have crown guards.

Panerai Watches – Case Shapes

If the name of the model is not on the dial, then the quickest way to distinguish the specific Panerai model you have is by looking at the case and winding crown.

Panerai Radiomir watches do not have any crown guards around the winding crown. The standard Radiomirs include a conical winding crown and thin wire lugs while the Radiomir 1940 models have a cylindrical winding crown and thicker lugs.

On the other hand, Panerai Luminor watches have an oversized semi-circular crown guard bridge protecting the winding crown. Standard Luminors have no markings on their crown guards while Luminor 1950 models have “REG T.M.” engraved on their semi-circular crown guard bridge. The newest type of Luminor to join Panerai’s collection is the Luminor Due, which made its debut in 2016. Like the Luminor 1950 watches, the crown guards of the Luminor Due are also marked with “REG T.M.” engravings; however, the cases of the Luminor Due are notably slimmer than those of the other Luminor models.

Panerai Luminor watches have large crown protecting bridges over their winding crowns

You’ll sometimes hear the name Panerai Luminor Marina. This is not the name of a particular model style, but rather, the label given to Panerai Luminor watches that include a running seconds indicator at 9 o’clock. For instance, a Panerai Luminor Base will only have an hour hand and a minute hand while a Panerai Luminor Marina will have the hour, minute, and seconds hands.

As modern diving watches, all Panerai Submersible models have rotating bezels, marked to 60 minutes to keep track of immersion times. So if your Panerai is equipped with a rotating dive bezel, then you know it’s a Submersible (or a Luminor Submersible if manufactured prior to 2019).

Although no longer part of the current collection, another Panerai model worth knowing is the Mare Nostrum, which draws its design inspiration from a vintage two-counter chronograph made in the 1940s for deck officers. Unlike the cushion-shaped cases of the Radiomir, Luminor, and Submersible, Panerai Mare Nostrum watches have round cases that are fitted with a pair of chronograph pushers framing the winding crown.

In summary, the quickest way to tell what Panerai model you have is to remember that Radiomir watches have no crown guards, Luminor watches have large semi-circular crown guards, Submersible watches have rotating dive bezels, and Mare Nostrum watches have round cases with chronograph pushers. So, do you have a favorite Panerai model?

Panerai Submersible watches have rotating timing bezels.

 

Rolex Explorer: Top 3 Things to Know Before Buying

A mainstay of the Rolex catalog since the early 1950s, the Explorer is both the brand’s oldest sports watch still in production and its most understated. As is the norm for longtime Rolex models, the Explorer has undergone some notable modifications over its almost seven-decade history while still retaining its fundamental design characteristics. And it is these modifications and updates that will ultimately dictate which Explorer reference is right for you. So with that in mind, here are the top three things to know before buying a Rolex Explorer. 

The Rolex Explorer Comes In Two Sizes

When the Rolex Explorer made its official debut in 1953, the watch featured a 36mm steel Oyster case to house its now-signature black dial with 3/6/9 numerals. Rolex stuck to those dimensions for the next five-plus decades until 2010, when the brand released the Explorer ref. 214270 with a 39mm case. Therefore, current-production Rolex Explorers have 39mm cases, while discontinued and vintage Explorer references have 36mm cases. 

36mm Rolex Explorer Models

• ref. 6150
• ref. 6350
• ref. 6610
• ref. 1016
• ref. 14270
• ref. 114270

39mm Rolex Explorer

• ref. 214270

Rolex Explorer 14270 vs. 114270

If you have your heart on buying a 36mm Explorer, then the two newest references are the ref. 14270 (released in 1989) and ref. 114270 (released in 2001). So what are the differences between the Explorer 14270 and the Explorer 114270? 

Rolex introduced Explorer ref. 14270 as the modern replacement for the long-running Explorer ref. 1016. The watch brought about a handful of enhancements that had become standard on many other Rolex watches, such as sapphire crystal to replace acrylic crystal, applied white gold lume-filled indexes to replace painted indexes, glossy black dials to replace matte black dials, and Caliber 3000 movements to replace the previous Caliber 1570. It’s also worth pointing out that while early examples of the Explorer 14270 used tritium for luminescence, Rolex switched over to LumiNova in the mid-1990s. 

When Rolex launched the Explorer ref. 114270, it looked almost identical to the previous reference. However, inside the case was a different automatic movement – the Caliber 3130 rather than the previous Caliber 3000. The only cosmetic changes included the addition of solid end links (SEL) and the use of Super-LumiNova (which is essentially identical to LumiNova but a different brand name). However, sometime in the mid-2000s, Rolex adopted additional counterfeit prevention measures such as engraving the rehaut (the space between the dial and the crystal) with ‘ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX’ (along with the watch’s individual serial number) and laser etching the crystal with a tiny crown (the Rolex logo). 

Rolex Explorer 214270 MK1 vs. MK2 Dials

Alternatively, if you prefer to buy a 39mm Explorer, then you’ll have to look to reference 214270, which runs on the Caliber 3132 movement. However, it’s important to know that there are, in fact, two dial versions available within the same Explorer 214270 model, which collectors like to call MK1 and MK2. 

The biggest news that came with the introduction of Explorer 214270 was its 39mm case size. Yet, many were quick to remark that the handset was too short to accommodate the bigger case and dial since the minute hand does not reach the minute track. Some claim that Rolex simply used the same handset from the 36mm Explorer. 

Then, in 2016, Rolex presented a revamped version of the reference 214270 Explorer with a dial that not only included a proportional handset but also luminescent-filled 3, 6, and 9 hour markers – something we hadn’t seen since the vintage Rolex Explorer 1016. Therefore, the Explorer 214270 MK1 has non-lumed 3/6/9 numerals and a shorter minute hand while Explorer 214270 MK2 has luminous 3/6/9 hour markers and a longer minute hand. 

Regardless if you decide upon a 36mm or a 39mm version, an MK1 dial or an MK2 dial, what you get with all Explorer models is a durable stainless steel Rolex sports watch with a classic and discreet design that has endured almost 70 years of history. 

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Luxury Watch Buying Guide – How to Shop Original vs. Authentic

A lot of people – even seasoned collectors – can find themselves confused when trying to distinguish between original and authentic watches. The trick? Stop thinking of the words as synonymous. In this guide, you’ll learn about the big differences between these two categories of luxury watches and how it can help you be a more educated shopper and collector.

What Are Authentic Watches?

An authentic watch is undisputed in origin, and not a replica or copy. This means that in order for something to be authentic, it has to be 100% real. Authentic watches are genuine pieces from brands – think of the big players like Rolex, Tudor, Omega, Patek Philippe and more.
Authentic watches are:

• Genuine pieces from the brand
• Not a copy or replica

We use the word authentic in the industry to distinguish between genuine timepieces and fakes that are widely copied and sold. When a dealer gets their hands on a watch, the first thing they are going to do is check the authenticity of the watch; and as a buyer, you should be doing the same. As a buyer, the first step in guaranteeing you get an authentic watch is by always buying directly from the brand or a trusted and reputable dealer who can ensure that the watch is authentic.
But how can you tell whether a watch is authentic? Well, we’ve created some great guides to help educate buyers and collectors – both on what’s real, and how to spot inauthentic details. Head over here to check out our official guide on the Top Ways To Spot A Fake Rolex.

What Are Original Watches?

To be an original watch, the timepiece has to be an authentic watch. Because when you see a watch listed as original, it means that it is both a genuine timepiece from that brand, and one that has not had any later-era updates or alterations since it was manufactured and originally sold.
Original watches are:

• Authentic
• Have not had parts replaced with later-era equivalents or been modified/altered in any way

Sometimes in the industry, we also refer to original watches as ‘honest’ watches. And when we look at pre-owned timepieces – especially vintage watches, we often look for originality. This means we look for things like correct factory-installed parts, whether they’re scratched, chipped or faded.
We also look for things like custom details that were added after purchasing, like diamonds or enhanced bezels which were later-era additions and unoriginal to the piece. There are even many buyers and collectors who will favor watches that have never had a polishing or servicing that could have hindered the natural aging process of the timepiece.

Today there is quite a high premium on original vintage pieces simply because they’re extremely rare and becoming increasingly harder to find. Decades ago, when people bought luxury watches like Rolex for example, it was perfectly normal for them to get the watch serviced, polished, or have parts replaced if you scratched or dented them up. The problem is that while they were done by the company with authentic later-era parts, they still weren’t original parts or features of the watch. Since this was such a common practice, today it’s really special – and highly valuable – if a vintage watch is totally original.
For more information on what to look for when trying to verify the authenticity of a luxury watch, be sure to check out our YouTube video on how to spot a fake Rolex right here.

The post Luxury Watch Buying Guide – How to Shop Original vs. Authentic appeared first on Bob's Watches.
Luxury Watch Buying Guide – How to Shop Original vs. Authentic

Rolex Yacht-Master II: How to Set the Countdown Timer

Deciding that you want to wear a Rolex Yacht-Master II is easy. It looks fantastic, it’s powered by the impressive Caliber 4161 movement, and it offers insane and highly-specialized functions. However, figuring out exactly how to use the Yacht-Master II may not seem as easy. So, here we’re going to break it down for you.

Now, at first glance, it may seem like a lot of steps, but don’t be fooled; Rolex has engineered this process to be quick and simple, despite the watch itself being a technologically-advanced mechanical masterpiece. After the first couple of times, you’ll remember these steps offhand and will be able to take full advantage of its complex functionality. Additionally, while this watch is designed to time the countdown for the start of a regatta, you can use the Rolex Yacht-Master II to do everything from timing a boiled egg to keeping track of your kids’ time-out. Get creative!

Setting the Countdown Timer on the Rolex Yacht-Master II

You’ll need to set your Rolex Yacht-Master II up before the regatta to initiate the countdown and set yourself up for the race itself.

1. First, make sure that your countdown timer is stopped. If it’s not, simply press the top pusher to stop the timer’s seconds hand.
2. Next, rotate the bezel counterclockwise a quarter of a turn (as far as it will go; until it clicks into place).
3. Next, you’re going to push the lower pusher, which will stay depressed. This will reset the countdown seconds hand back to zero (12 o’clock) and the countdown minutes hand will reset itself back to the previous countdown time that was set. This will also block the top pusher from being able to be pressed in.
4. Now you’re going to set the countdown duration by unscrewing the crown and turning it clockwise until it hits the countdown minute you need.
5. Once the countdown duration has been set, turn the bezel clockwise a quarter-turn (as far as it will go; until it clicks into place). This unlocks the top pusher and releases the lower one.
6. Lastly, don’t forget your crown! Push in your winding crown and screw it securely back down to the case to ensure that your watch remains water-resistant while in use.

Using the Countdown Timer on the Rolex Yacht-Master II

Now that your countdown is set, this is how you’ll put it to use.

1. Just like other Rolex watches with traditional chronograph complications (like the Daytona), the top pusher will start and stop the countdown timer on the Yacht-Master II, while the bottom pusher resets it.
2. However, unlike a traditional chronograph watch, the adjustable countdown timer on the Yacht-Master II features flyback and fly-forward functionality meaning that you can reset the timer to the nearest minute with a single push of a button, without having to stop or restart the timer at all.
3. To use the flyback (or fly-forward) function on the Yacht-Master II, simply press the bottom pusher while the countdown timer is running. The countdown timer will reset itself back to the nearest minute, and then keep running again, allowing you to immediately start measuring your next countdown duration without skipping a beat.

Using the Rolex Yacht-Master II During a Regatta

Now that your countdown is set, this is how you’ll put it to use during a regatta

1. If you don’t know how a regatta begins, it is usually a starting gun and a flag that signals the official countdown. When this happens, press the upper pusher to start your countdown timer, which is already set to the appropriate number of minutes of the countdown. The seconds hand for the timer will start moving around the dial indicating elapsed time, and every 60-seconds, the minute hand will jump to the next number until it hits zero – aka the end of your countdown.
2. At some point, you may need to reset the countdown timer to synchronize with the official race clock. This allows you to ensure that you’re on-time with the official race clock, even if you do not start the timer at exactly the right time. To do this, all you need to do is press the lower pusher when you hear the second (or third) preparatory signal. What this does is reset the seconds hand to zero and synchronize the countdown minute hand to the nearest minute. This allows you to coordinate your watch’s countdown timer to the official race clock to give you the most accurate countdown to the official start of the race.
3. The race begins! Your countdown has reached zero and you’re now on your way. To reset the countdown timer back to its original setting, simply press the upper pusher to stop the regatta timer, and then press the lower pusher to reset the countdown back to the last setting that you programmed into the Yacht-Master II’s mechanical memory. With the boat race now underway, you are done! (at least until next time).

The post Rolex Yacht-Master II: How to Set the Countdown Timer appeared first on Bob's Watches.

Top 7 Watches Under $2,000

\Video Transcript

Here at Crown & Caliber we often feature watches that can cost $4,000 and $5,000, and sometimes even more, and let’s be honest that can be a lot of money. So, we thought we’d feature some of our favorite watches that are a little bit more affordable. Here are top seven picks four watches under $2,000.

The Omega Speedmaster Date – Ref. 3513.30.00

This is an Omega that doesn’t seem to get as much love because it’s not a traditional Speedmaster, but what this Speedmaster lacks in heritage it more than makes up for in practicality. The Speedmaster Date comes in a more modest 39 millimeters. Its got an automatic movement, but unlike the Speedmaster Reduced that has a somewhat finicky movement this Speedmaster has the Omega Caliber 1152. It is based on the Valjoux 7750. and it is a tank. It is a fully integrated chronograph that stands the test of time. The use of the Valjoux 7750 does mean that the chronograph sub-dials are now shifted to 6, 9, and 12, which again, breaks with the traditional appearance of 3, 6, and 9, but as a benefit it does make space for the three o’clock date window. Which brings us to another notable aspect of the watch: the date. The addition of the date is somewhat controversial because again it’s a departure from the traditional Speedmaster, but from a practicality standpoint it is definitely welcomed. In keeping with the departure from tradition we went with the silver dial option.

The Breitling Colt Skyracer – Ref. X74320

The Colt Skyracer is probably the single coolest quartz watch you can buy. This limited-edition watch is made up of Breitlight, which is a proprietary polymer made by Breitling. The 45-millimeter case weighs next to nothing yet is still durable and highly scratch resistant. The Breitling Superquartz movement is accurate to within 10 seconds a year. This watch is all about form following function. Even the strap has standard measurements and can easily be removed thanks to a proprietary design.

The Longines Hydroconquest – Ref. L3.665.4

This watch is a beast, and this is our pick for someone looking for a larger timepiece. The nearly 48-millimeter case can seem daunting, but the angular lugs help it wear well for its size. And the chronograph pushers and crown guards complement the angular design of the case so well. The watch is also water resistant to 300 meters. Now some of the Longines Hydroconquest are quartz watches but this one is powered by a modified ETA 7753. It’s essentially the workhorse Valjoux 7750 modified to have the sub dials at three six and nine. One of the coolest parts of this watch is the bezel that is reminiscent of the Rolex Yacht-Master.

The Bell & Ross Sport Heritage – Ref. BRV123-ST-HER/SRB

Bell & Ross is a brand known for its striking instrument style timepieces, but before their watches looked like they came right out of an airplane’s cockpit they had a more traditional styling. The BR123 Sport Heritage checks all the boxes for a vintage inspired timepiece. It has a faux patina on the legible Arabic numerals, hands and indices. It features a black 60-minute fixed bezel and also has some subtle red text on the dial and a domed sapphire crystal. And to top it off a nice tropic style rubber strap completes the vintage inspiration. The exhibition case back shows off the modest Bell & Ross caliber 302, and the movement is housed in a 43-millimeter case with sharp tapered lugs. This watch balances elegance and ruggedness perfectly.

The Nomos Orion – Ref. 301

Nomos watches can sometimes have a fairly polarizing style, but the Orion seen here is just classic. It features a sleek case that has some of the best curves in the watch game. The watch is a modest 35-millimeters, but with its long lugs it wears nicely on plenty of wrist sizes. The watch is powered by Nomos’ in-house caliber Alpha. It’s a manual wound movement that represents the brand’s self-sufficiency perfectly. The clean silver dial with gold indices and blued hands is so perfectly designed I just catch myself looking down at my wrist. And the strap on this Nomos is one of the brands shell cordovan versions and is the epitome of what a leather strap should be. If you want a dress watch then look no further than the Nomos Orion.

The Baume & Mercier Clifton – Ref. MOA10052

Staying with more of the dress watch style we’ve got the Baume & Mercier Clifton. This watch does a great job on straddling the formal and the casual. The clean silver dial with blued hands lend themselves to the dressier watches, but the Arabic numerals and the 41-millimeter case size are on the sporty-er side. Baume & Mercier keep the cost reasonable on this watch by using a Sellita caliber SW200-1. While not an in-house movement this is another great example of a time-tested robust automatic Swiss movement.

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500m – Ref. WAK2110

This list wouldn’t be complete without a TAG Heuer. They offer so many great watches and at a reasonable price point. The one we chose was the Aquaracer. It’s a robust sport watch that can take a beating. This is a watch that has countless options as well so there’s plenty of style variations to choose from. We went with this classic black plank dial and matching ceramic black bezel. This watch does so many things right. Though slightly smaller from the previous design, the 41-millimeter case is the sweet spot for sport watches. 500-meter water resistance is plenty and the TAG Heuer Calibre 5 is a solid automatic movement.

As you can see there are plenty of solid watches at or below the $2,000 mark. Let us know your top picks for luxury watches under $2,000 and as always thanks for watching.

 

The post Top 7 Watches Under $2,000 appeared first on Crown & Caliber Blog.

Top 7 Watches Under $2,000

\Video Transcript

Here at Crown & Caliber we often feature watches that can cost $4,000 and $5,000, and sometimes even more, and let’s be honest that can be a lot of money. So, we thought we’d feature some of our favorite watches that are a little bit more affordable. Here are top seven picks four watches under $2,000.

The Omega Speedmaster Date – Ref. 3513.30.00

This is an Omega that doesn’t seem to get as much love because it’s not a traditional Speedmaster, but what this Speedmaster lacks in heritage it more than makes up for in practicality. The Speedmaster Date comes in a more modest 39 millimeters. Its got an automatic movement, but unlike the Speedmaster Reduced that has a somewhat finicky movement this Speedmaster has the Omega Caliber 1152. It is based on the Valjoux 7750. and it is a tank. It is a fully integrated chronograph that stands the test of time. The use of the Valjoux 7750 does mean that the chronograph sub-dials are now shifted to 6, 9, and 12, which again, breaks with the traditional appearance of 3, 6, and 9, but as a benefit it does make space for the three o’clock date window. Which brings us to another notable aspect of the watch: the date. The addition of the date is somewhat controversial because again it’s a departure from the traditional Speedmaster, but from a practicality standpoint it is definitely welcomed. In keeping with the departure from tradition we went with the silver dial option.

The Breitling Colt Skyracer – Ref. X74320

The Colt Skyracer is probably the single coolest quartz watch you can buy. This limited-edition watch is made up of Breitlight, which is a proprietary polymer made by Breitling. The 45-millimeter case weighs next to nothing yet is still durable and highly scratch resistant. The Breitling Superquartz movement is accurate to within 10 seconds a year. This watch is all about form following function. Even the strap has standard measurements and can easily be removed thanks to a proprietary design.

The Longines Hydroconquest – Ref. L3.665.4

This watch is a beast, and this is our pick for someone looking for a larger timepiece. The nearly 48-millimeter case can seem daunting, but the angular lugs help it wear well for its size. And the chronograph pushers and crown guards complement the angular design of the case so well. The watch is also water resistant to 300 meters. Now some of the Longines Hydroconquest are quartz watches but this one is powered by a modified ETA 7753. It’s essentially the workhorse Valjoux 7750 modified to have the sub dials at three six and nine. One of the coolest parts of this watch is the bezel that is reminiscent of the Rolex Yacht-Master.

The Bell & Ross Sport Heritage – Ref. BRV123-ST-HER/SRB

Bell & Ross is a brand known for its striking instrument style timepieces, but before their watches looked like they came right out of an airplane’s cockpit they had a more traditional styling. The BR123 Sport Heritage checks all the boxes for a vintage inspired timepiece. It has a faux patina on the legible Arabic numerals, hands and indices. It features a black 60-minute fixed bezel and also has some subtle red text on the dial and a domed sapphire crystal. And to top it off a nice tropic style rubber strap completes the vintage inspiration. The exhibition case back shows off the modest Bell & Ross caliber 302, and the movement is housed in a 43-millimeter case with sharp tapered lugs. This watch balances elegance and ruggedness perfectly.

The Nomos Orion – Ref. 301

Nomos watches can sometimes have a fairly polarizing style, but the Orion seen here is just classic. It features a sleek case that has some of the best curves in the watch game. The watch is a modest 35-millimeters, but with its long lugs it wears nicely on plenty of wrist sizes. The watch is powered by Nomos’ in-house caliber Alpha. It’s a manual wound movement that represents the brand’s self-sufficiency perfectly. The clean silver dial with gold indices and blued hands is so perfectly designed I just catch myself looking down at my wrist. And the strap on this Nomos is one of the brands shell cordovan versions and is the epitome of what a leather strap should be. If you want a dress watch then look no further than the Nomos Orion.

The Baume & Mercier Clifton – Ref. MOA10052

Staying with more of the dress watch style we’ve got the Baume & Mercier Clifton. This watch does a great job on straddling the formal and the casual. The clean silver dial with blued hands lend themselves to the dressier watches, but the Arabic numerals and the 41-millimeter case size are on the sporty-er side. Baume & Mercier keep the cost reasonable on this watch by using a Sellita caliber SW200-1. While not an in-house movement this is another great example of a time-tested robust automatic Swiss movement.

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 500m – Ref. WAK2110

This list wouldn’t be complete without a TAG Heuer. They offer so many great watches and at a reasonable price point. The one we chose was the Aquaracer. It’s a robust sport watch that can take a beating. This is a watch that has countless options as well so there’s plenty of style variations to choose from. We went with this classic black plank dial and matching ceramic black bezel. This watch does so many things right. Though slightly smaller from the previous design, the 41-millimeter case is the sweet spot for sport watches. 500-meter water resistance is plenty and the TAG Heuer Calibre 5 is a solid automatic movement.

As you can see there are plenty of solid watches at or below the $2,000 mark. Let us know your top picks for luxury watches under $2,000 and as always thanks for watching.

 

The post Top 7 Watches Under $2,000 appeared first on Crown & Caliber Blog.