The Rolex Daytona: Then and Now

For this installment of our Then and Now series, we take a look at perhaps the biggest rags to riches story that horology has to offer. The Rolex Daytona could not have had a more dramatic about-face between the original and the present-day model – not so much in their styling or mechanics, but in their popularity. 

The watch that is essentially impossible to buy at retailers today was once so shunned that dealers practically gave them away to anyone who showed the slightest interest. Over more than half a century in the field, the Rolex Daytona has evolved and the public’s perception of the watch has transformed completely. Today, the Daytona is considered to be one of the most important sports watches ever made. So, how did we get here from such inauspicious beginnings?

The First Rolex Daytona 

The very first Rolex Daytona wasn’t actually called a Daytona at all. Although Rolex had taken a few tentative steps towards producing chronograph wristwatches since the 1930s, it would take until 1963 before the Daytona as we know today it would begin to take its iconic form.

The early pieces of that inaugural reference, the ref. 6239, were called simply the Rolex Cosmograph. Rumors surround the origin of the name, with some speculating it was chosen as a means to catch NASA’s eye, and perhaps be chosen to play a part in the burgeoning space race – a gig it eventually lost out on to the Omega Speedmaster. It would take several more years before it adopted the Daytona title as well, christened after the fabled Floridia speedway and the endurance race that is hosted there, which would soon become a Rolex sponsored event. 

In fact, from print advertisements during this period, we can see that the watch was a hair away from being called the Le Mans, after the celebrated French circuit; however it was obviously changed to appeal more to a North American audience. Except, it didn’t quite work out like that. The ref. 6239, handsome enough though it was, was met with a huge wave of indifference upon its launch.  

Initially forged in all steel, the 37mm piece took a leaf out of Omega’s book and moved its tachymeter scale onto the bezel rather than its traditional position around the periphery of the dial. Between that and the trio of color contrasting sub-dials, it provided excellent legibility. The problem, as far as the watch buying public was concerned, was the movement. Nothing was wrong with the movement itself and self-winding alternatives were still several years away, but the ref. 6239 was simply familiar technology and it didn’t really bring anything new to the table.

Inside, the Valjoux 72 B ticked away, perhaps the finest chronograph caliber of the period, and accepted today as one of the all-time greats. The 18,000vph, column-wheel controlled mechanism had already found a home in a number of iconic models from other manufacturers such as Breitling’s Navitimer and several from Heuer, including the Autavia and Carrera, so its pedigree was beyond reproach; it just didn’t excite buyers.

At this point in the early 60s, technology was advancing at breakneck speed. Apart from the battle to be first among the stars, in the more down-to-earth world of horology, rumblings of quartz electronics were starting to be felt from the east. Despite being several years away from the appearance of the first automatic winding chronograph movements, a watch you had to remember to wind yourself was starting to look like a relic of another time. And if you particularly wanted a mechanical chronograph with a hand wound caliber, the ever-present Omega Speedmaster had the market pretty much sewn up. Therefore, the Rolex Daytona lingered on shelves, with dealers allegedly so desperate to unload them they would offer them at heavily discounted prices, or even as a two-for-one deal with the purchase of other, more expensive Rolex watches. 

Undeterred, the brand brought out 14k and 18k yellow gold versions of the ref. 6239 in 1965, the same year the Daytona name was finally included on the watch. That was also the time they commissioned dial maker Singer to come up with an alternative to the standard silver and black faces. What they presented was dubbed the ‘Exotic Dial’ and featured an outer minute track in the same color as the sub-dials, crosshairs on the chrono counters, and an Art Deco font for the numerals. Instead of revamping the appeal of the Rolex Daytona, these dials – which we today know as Paul Newman Dials – only managed to make an unpopular watch even less sought after. 

The ref. 6239 limped on until 1969, alongside two other models; the ref. 6241, which was practically identical except for the bezel having a black acrylic insert, and the extremely rare ref. 6240, more or less a prototype that brought screw down chronograph buttons in place of the former pump pushers. That was the first example to have ‘Oyster’ on its dial, which indicated its superior water resistance. Periodic improvements followed, with a handful of other references released, until the first generation of the Rolex Daytona came to an end 1988. However, from that point on, things started to look up for Rolex’s chronograph.

The Modern Rolex Daytona

It was the introduction of an automatic movement that set the Rolex Daytona along the path towards watchmaking superstardom. A self-winding chronograph movement from Zenith, called the El Primero, turned the once ugly duckling of the Rolex catalog into the most coveted watch of the 80s and 90s when it powered the second generation of the piece. 

Then, given Rolex’s usual obsession with producing everything in-house that goes into its watches, the brand marked the latest generation by creating its first in-house chronograph movement, the Cal. 4130. The ref. 116XXX series arrived in 2000, and it signaled both the first in-house Rolex chronograph movement, as well as the end of Rolex using movements from third party suppliers in any of their watches.

The ref. 116500LN, released in 2016 with either a black or white dial, has been the most talked about and desirable timepiece of recent years. It is now the solitary all-steel model in the Rolex Daytona lineup and is only available with the brand’s patented Cerachrom ceramic bezel. Despite having only one stainless steel model, there are plenty of other flavors of Rolex Daytona watches available.

In fact, it has the broadest range of any of the Professional Collection. Along with the two-tone Rolesor pieces, you can take your pick from any of the three types of gold (yellow, red and white) and even platinum. Dial colors are ample and, since 2017, the Oysterflex rubber strap has also been featured heavily on the gold models with ceramic bezels, giving these references an altogether more sporty aspect.

However, the modern version of the Rolex Daytona is not merely a status symbol. The Cal. 4130, a caliber five-years in the making, is arguably the best mass-produced chronograph movement ever created. It is a column wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch that is made up of just 201 components, a 60% drop from the El Primero that it replaced. It is the sort of minimalist approach Rolex has always embraced; the fewer parts there are, the less there is to go wrong.

Even so, the new caliber far outperforms the old. Power reserve is increased to 72 hours over the previous 50, the self-winding system is 68% more efficient, and it was the first movement to be given the proprietary Blue Parachrom hairspring, with all its antimagnetic and shock resisting properties.

More importantly, however, is the chronograph coupling assembly. Instead of the traditional lateral, or horizontal, clutch used on previous models, the Cal. 4130 has a vertical system. This means that it is able to perform much more accurate starts and stops, without the juddering backlash on the hands of most rival manufacturers. Additionally, the stopwatch can be run for longer without affecting the overall timekeeping of the watch, and the whole unit is serviceable, in that it can be removed, disassembled, lubricated and replaced, unlike certain other integrated units.

The Rolex Daytona has led an extraordinary life, going from one of the brand’s rare missteps into the very definition of luxury that money can’t buy. A model originally designed to cater to the high octane world of motorsports has now become a sign of wealth, success, and a keen horological eye. Today, both new and vintage examples are becoming evermore valuable – and it is a trend that shows no sign of slowing down.

Do you prefer modern or vintage Rolex Daytona watches? Let us know in the comments below.

 

Tudor Watches: Black Bay Bronze Review

Bronze watches have become quite a trend in recent years. Desirable not only for their unique aesthetic and their quirky appeal but also for their ability to develop a patina – a distinctive aged, vintage look that changes over time, giving them remarkable character. Despite its retro appeal, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze ref. 79250BM, places itself firmly in the 21st Century among the rest of the Tudor watches in the brand’s contemporary lineup, with its modern 43mm case and rotating diver’s bezel.

Tudor Watches and the Black Bay Bronze

Tudor is a brand synonymous with premium quality. Upholding the reputation of its sister company (Rolex), Tudor uses a sophisticated blend of robust and high-quality materials in the construction of its timepieces – namely those used for their diver’s range. The Tudor Pelagos, for example, is made from titanium for maximum corrosion resistance and a lightweight presence on the wrist. This modern tool for underwater tasks is fitted with a helium escape valve and an impressive 500m depth rating to ensure that divers can explore deep and daring depths without compromise.

On the other hand, the Tudor Black Bay models (including the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze 79250BM) are vintage-inspired watches that first made an appearance in 2012. Drawing inspiration from historic Submariner models, these Tudor watches bring to the forefront of their design a vintage style, defined by large crowns without guards and domed sapphire crystals. It was not until 2016, that Tudor began equipping their Black Bay timepieces with in-house developed movements. The iconic snowflake hands with a squared-off tip are another unmistakable design feature seen throughout the collection that has its roots deep in Tudor’s past.

While the Black Bay collection now consists of a wide assortment of different models, it is the Black Bay Bronze that represents the top model from the standard Black Bay collection. Sized at 43mm (2mm larger than the classic dive watches from the collection), the Black Bay Bronze also features a different dial, and blends retro design details with modern-day cutting edge technology. The watch catapults itself off the back of the Black Bay collection and is the only model that features bronze for its case material. Bronze alloys have been used for shipbuilding and for the development of diving instruments, and while it is not as strong or corrosion-resistant as stainless steel, bronze has the unique ability to develop a patina that reflects the life of its owner.

Although these bronze Tudor watches are specifically designed to show their age, they do so in a way that is graceful, with the bronze material slightly darkening over time with exposure to the elements. The many nooks on the crown and case will take on their own personality with time, enhanced further by two notably different shades of brown on the dial and bezel (or slate gray on the latest version of the watch). In regards to the brown dials found on the original models, the tone differs from the rich chocolate shades that we so commonly see in high-end watches, and instead is a brighter flat tone.

On these watches, the bezel itself is a piercing shade of bronze that marries well with the shield emblem emblazoned onto the dial’s surface. Additionally, the Black Bay Bronze is fitted with a 3,6,9 ‘Explorer-dial’ layout that is unique to the bronze variant and not found on any of the other Tudor watches that make up the current Black Bay collection. The hour markers and hands are finished with slightly off-white luminous material, making for a nice contrast against the watch’s honey-toned distressed leather or canvas straps, which add further vintage styling and character.

The Tudor Cal. MT5601 movement fitted to the heart of the Black Bay Bronze model is an in-house developed engine that provides users with a 70hr power reserve. You could easily take the watch off on a Friday evening and come back to it first thing on a Monday morning, without it having skipped a beat. The no-fuss movement is designed for accuracy and reliability and is chronometer-certified, unlike other Tudor watches that use modified generic movements. It’s values like these that have become integral to the success of the Tudor brand. Their transparent approach to watchmaking is what has enabled the company to stand out within the industry, despite perpetually being in the massive shadow of their ultra-famous parent company. With a balance bridge rather than balance cock (for better resistance to shocks), a silicon balance spring for magnetic resistance, and a free-sprung adjustable mass balance – this engine can operate seamlessly inside its rugged, highly water-resistant housing, making it a perfect watch for everyday wear.

Without a doubt, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze perfectly straddles the line between vintage and modern, offering all of the latest state-of-the-art technologies in a watch that has the looks of a much older timepiece. As its patina gradually develops and darkens, no two Tudor Black Bay Bronze watches will ever appear completely identical, as each one increasingly reflects the conditions through which it was worn. For anyone who loves the traditional Tudor Black Bay, but wants a slightly different take on the highly-successful model, the Tudor Black Bay Bronze is among the most unique watches currently in the brand’s portfolio and has all of the technological prowess to be a reliable timekeeper for many years to come.

 

Rolex Submariner Date Review: Reference 16610

Where would Rolex be without the Submariner? The most popular and instantly recognizable dive watch ever made, it is the model against which all others have been measured since it debuted in 1954. However, despite its global fame, the Rolex Submariner has actually seen some controversy during its six-and-a-half decade run. Throughout that time, there have been a couple of introductions that have divided opinions.

One came along in 1969 when the ref. 1680 brought the date function to the watch. Critics seemed to object on two fronts: first and foremost, many believed that there was little to no use for a date display on a dive watch; secondly, others complained that the date window at the three o’clock, and especially the Cyclops magnification lens over the top of it, threw off the overall symmetry of the dial. Undeterred, Rolex simply split the range in half, producing both a date and no-date version from that point on.

The other contentious move happened with the most recent iteration of the Rolex Submariner. Launched in 2010, the ref. 116610 was released with Rolex’s Super Case, featuring lugs and crown guards twice the thickness of before. A compromise to all those who thought 40mm was too small in the modern age for a sports watch, it stayed the same dimensions on paper but the extra bulk added a significant presence on the wrist. But the graceful sweeping lines of the previous references, which had gone practically unchanged for the last 50-years, were gone and it was a move that lost the Sub as many fans as it gained.

The Rolex Submariner Date ref. 16610

The model which preceded the current one, the reference 16610 was first unveiled in 1989 and has since become highly sought after on the pre-owned market. For a collector, there are a number of plus points in its favor. It has the majority of the modern touches that you need in a tool watch, one you might intend to wear every day, but with just the right amount of vintage nostalgia.

The metal used in for the construction of the Rolex Submariner 16610 is the incredibly resilient 904L stainless steel which is almost exclusively the domain of Rolex. Containing higher proportions of chromium, molybdenum, nickel, and copper than the traditional 316L steel employed by practically every rival manufacturer, it is a much harder metal and more resistant to corrosion. It also has a unique luster when polished, visually setting it apart in a crowded industry.

Inside, the Rolex Submariner ref. 16610 is fitted with the legendary Caliber 3135, commonly regarded as one of the finest mass-produced mechanical movements ever created. The Cal. 3135 is so good, in fact, that it is still the engine inside the latest generation of the date-displaying Submariner, some 30+ years later.

During the model’s tenure, the movement went through a couple of upgrades itself. The original Nivarox hairspring was replaced in 2000 with Rolex’s own Parachrom component, formed from niobium and zirconium, which leaves it completely antimagnetic and around 10 times more impervious to shocks and temperature fluctuations. Five years later, the brand thickened the spring’s oxide coating to further improve stability, which also resulted in it changing color once it reacted with the air. It has been known as the Blue Parachrom hairspring (sometimes called Parachrom Bleu) ever since.

While those elements ensure the strength and reliability of the watch, aesthetically, the ref. 16610 has a pleasing retro note to it. That pre-Super Case profile, the one which hasn’t really altered since the entrance of the ref. 5512 at the end of the 50s, is the perfect blend of elegance and strength. Additionally, the hour markers on the Rolex Submariner 16610 are smaller than on the present-day version, which is fitted with what is known as a Maxi dial among modern collectors.  However, the indexes are still framed in white gold, something that Rolex introduced mid-way through the production of the ref. 16800 Submariner that came before. The 18k white gold surrounds for the hour markers provide the watch with a much more elevated appearance than the painted on markers that can be found on the older matte dials.

Perhaps the most welcome feature carried over from yesteryear on the ref. 16610 is the bezel insert. Many of the newest pieces in Rolex’s Professional collection, including the Submariner, now have their bezels constructed from Rolex’s proprietary Cerachrom ceramic – a material which is highly scratch-resistance, and that is guaranteed not to fade after prolonged exposure to saltwater or UV light. While Cerachrom is superior from a performance and longevity standpoint, it does slightly detract from the watches developing their own individual character, the kind formed by the odd knock or graze that gives each one a story and life of its own. A Cerachrom bezel 50-years from now will look virtually identical to a brand-new one straight off the production line, regardless of how interesting a life it has led.

While ceramic bezels will more-or-less never age, the complete opposite applies to the aluminum inserts used on the ref. 16610 Rolex Submariner. Still very robust, they are more likely to fade in color after spending time under the hot sun or under the waves. These faded aluminum bezel inserts can take on colors ranging from gray to blue, and that special patina is what vintage fans actively seek out – and it is what drives much of the excitement for many collectors. Especially concerning collectible vintage references, it is often not the most pristine examples that command the highest prices, but rather those that have gracefully aged over the years in a highly unique manner.

Changes and Updates

The Rolex Submariner ref. 16610 had a long run, starting in 1989 and going right up until 2010. During that time, as you would expect, it would go through a string of alterations and modernizations. Aside from the new hairspring, the type of lume used on the indexes changed a total of three times.

For the first 10-years, Rolex was still using tritium, which is far safer than the radium used during the 50s and 60s; however, it was actually radioactive. Dials of this type are marked either ‘T Swiss T’ or ‘Swiss-T<25’ along the very bottom edge, below the six o’clock. After that, Rolex made a brief switch to a substance called LumiNova, a photoluminescent paint that was completely non-radioactive. These dials, made from roughly 1998 to 2000, are signed simply ‘SWISS’. Finally, starting around 2000 and continuing until the end of the ref. 16610’s production, Rolex changed the luminous material again, this time to Super-LumiNova. Virtually identical to the outgoing photoluminescent material, you can identify these models with the ‘SWISS MADE’ text at the bottom of their dials.

Around 2007, the Rolex also started engraving their name and the watch’s individual serial number around the inner bezel ring encompassing the dial (known as the rehaut). It was a move taken to try and foil the counterfeiting operations that have long dogged Rolex, and the Submariner in particular (the Sub holds the dubious honor of being the most forged watch of all time). Additionally, the inner bezel engraving also helped protect the watch’s ever-important serial number from getting worn and difficult to read, which sometimes occurred with its previous placement of between the lugs on the 6 o’clock side of the case.

The bracelet went through a couple of improvements as well. Only ever issued on the classic three-link Oyster bracelet (much like other Rolex watches from the brand’s ‘Professional’ collection), it would be given solid end-links links from around 2000 onwards. Prior to that, the end-links were separate pieces from the rest of the bracelet and were hallow in their design, and their primary purpose was to fill the gap between the lugs, rather than being a structural component of the bracelet. However, completely solid bracelet links and the Glidelock extension system didn’t make it onto the ref. 16610, and it wouldn’t be until the release of the current model, that the Rolex Submariner received the style of bracelet that it has today.

Lastly, the case of the Rolex Submariner 16610 still had lug holes all the way up until 2003. While the small holes on the sides of the lugs result in a slightly less refined, and more tool-like appearance, they are now one of those little details that are beloved by today’s collectors. Additionally, they are also a feature that makes swapping out straps and changing bands significantly easier.

Overall, Rolex Submariner ref. 16610 is often considered the last of the best. What the watch loses in contemporary touches like the ceramic bezel, it gains back in classic styling elements and a more graceful silhouette. On top of that, it is powered by the longest-serving and most battle-ready movement Rolex has ever made, and the watch itself is forged from a kind of stainless steel that is practically bombproof. The simple yet classic look has proven itself to be truly timeless; whether worn with a business suit or a wetsuit, the Rolex Submariner can match with anything.

Best of all, over its 21-year term, there were many examples produced, leading to no shortage available on the pre-owned Rolex market. You can pick up your own example of this vital chapter in the Submariner’s story for less than $7,000. For one of the great references of the undoubtedly most iconic dive watch of them all, that is an absolute bargain.

 

Panerai Watches 101 – What Model Do I Have?

To most casual watch observers, almost all Panerai watches look basically the same. After all, the brand adheres to a strict design language across all of its models, derived from vintage models that date back to the mid-20th Century. These design traits include generously sized cushion-shaped cases, minimalist dials with a mix of Arabic numerals and stick hour markers, plenty of lume, and prominent winding crowns. However, there are some important, albeit subtle variances, between the various Panerai watches. So, if you’re at all unsure about which Panerai model you have, read on for some easy ways to spot the telltale signs.

Do you know what kind of Panerai watch you have?

Panerai Watches – Dial Markings

Today, Panerai makes three main case shapes: Luminor, Radiomir, and Submersible. Yet, there are also several variations of these cases like the Luminor 1950 and the Radiomir 1940, which we will get to below. Panerai will often (but not always) include the name of the main model on the dial of the watch. So your first step in finding out what Panerai model you have is to check if there’s a name on the dial.

It’s important to note that the Submersible was once part of the Luminor collection, which explains why you’ll sometimes see “Luminor Submersible” on the dial. Panerai officially established the Submersible as a separate collection in 2019, so all Panerai Submersible watches produced before then will have both the Luminor and Submersible names on the dial.

Panerai Radiomir watches do not have crown guards.

Panerai Watches – Case Shapes

If the name of the model is not on the dial, then the quickest way to distinguish the specific Panerai model you have is by looking at the case and winding crown.

Panerai Radiomir watches do not have any crown guards around the winding crown. The standard Radiomirs include a conical winding crown and thin wire lugs while the Radiomir 1940 models have a cylindrical winding crown and thicker lugs.

On the other hand, Panerai Luminor watches have an oversized semi-circular crown guard bridge protecting the winding crown. Standard Luminors have no markings on their crown guards while Luminor 1950 models have “REG T.M.” engraved on their semi-circular crown guard bridge. The newest type of Luminor to join Panerai’s collection is the Luminor Due, which made its debut in 2016. Like the Luminor 1950 watches, the crown guards of the Luminor Due are also marked with “REG T.M.” engravings; however, the cases of the Luminor Due are notably slimmer than those of the other Luminor models.

Panerai Luminor watches have large crown protecting bridges over their winding crowns

You’ll sometimes hear the name Panerai Luminor Marina. This is not the name of a particular model style, but rather, the label given to Panerai Luminor watches that include a running seconds indicator at 9 o’clock. For instance, a Panerai Luminor Base will only have an hour hand and a minute hand while a Panerai Luminor Marina will have the hour, minute, and seconds hands.

As modern diving watches, all Panerai Submersible models have rotating bezels, marked to 60 minutes to keep track of immersion times. So if your Panerai is equipped with a rotating dive bezel, then you know it’s a Submersible (or a Luminor Submersible if manufactured prior to 2019).

Although no longer part of the current collection, another Panerai model worth knowing is the Mare Nostrum, which draws its design inspiration from a vintage two-counter chronograph made in the 1940s for deck officers. Unlike the cushion-shaped cases of the Radiomir, Luminor, and Submersible, Panerai Mare Nostrum watches have round cases that are fitted with a pair of chronograph pushers framing the winding crown.

In summary, the quickest way to tell what Panerai model you have is to remember that Radiomir watches have no crown guards, Luminor watches have large semi-circular crown guards, Submersible watches have rotating dive bezels, and Mare Nostrum watches have round cases with chronograph pushers. So, do you have a favorite Panerai model?

Panerai Submersible watches have rotating timing bezels.

 

Rolex Explorer: Top 3 Things to Know Before Buying

A mainstay of the Rolex catalog since the early 1950s, the Explorer is both the brand’s oldest sports watch still in production and its most understated. As is the norm for longtime Rolex models, the Explorer has undergone some notable modifications over its almost seven-decade history while still retaining its fundamental design characteristics. And it is these modifications and updates that will ultimately dictate which Explorer reference is right for you. So with that in mind, here are the top three things to know before buying a Rolex Explorer. 

The Rolex Explorer Comes In Two Sizes

When the Rolex Explorer made its official debut in 1953, the watch featured a 36mm steel Oyster case to house its now-signature black dial with 3/6/9 numerals. Rolex stuck to those dimensions for the next five-plus decades until 2010, when the brand released the Explorer ref. 214270 with a 39mm case. Therefore, current-production Rolex Explorers have 39mm cases, while discontinued and vintage Explorer references have 36mm cases. 

36mm Rolex Explorer Models

• ref. 6150
• ref. 6350
• ref. 6610
• ref. 1016
• ref. 14270
• ref. 114270

39mm Rolex Explorer

• ref. 214270

Rolex Explorer 14270 vs. 114270

If you have your heart on buying a 36mm Explorer, then the two newest references are the ref. 14270 (released in 1989) and ref. 114270 (released in 2001). So what are the differences between the Explorer 14270 and the Explorer 114270? 

Rolex introduced Explorer ref. 14270 as the modern replacement for the long-running Explorer ref. 1016. The watch brought about a handful of enhancements that had become standard on many other Rolex watches, such as sapphire crystal to replace acrylic crystal, applied white gold lume-filled indexes to replace painted indexes, glossy black dials to replace matte black dials, and Caliber 3000 movements to replace the previous Caliber 1570. It’s also worth pointing out that while early examples of the Explorer 14270 used tritium for luminescence, Rolex switched over to LumiNova in the mid-1990s. 

When Rolex launched the Explorer ref. 114270, it looked almost identical to the previous reference. However, inside the case was a different automatic movement – the Caliber 3130 rather than the previous Caliber 3000. The only cosmetic changes included the addition of solid end links (SEL) and the use of Super-LumiNova (which is essentially identical to LumiNova but a different brand name). However, sometime in the mid-2000s, Rolex adopted additional counterfeit prevention measures such as engraving the rehaut (the space between the dial and the crystal) with ‘ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX’ (along with the watch’s individual serial number) and laser etching the crystal with a tiny crown (the Rolex logo). 

Rolex Explorer 214270 MK1 vs. MK2 Dials

Alternatively, if you prefer to buy a 39mm Explorer, then you’ll have to look to reference 214270, which runs on the Caliber 3132 movement. However, it’s important to know that there are, in fact, two dial versions available within the same Explorer 214270 model, which collectors like to call MK1 and MK2. 

The biggest news that came with the introduction of Explorer 214270 was its 39mm case size. Yet, many were quick to remark that the handset was too short to accommodate the bigger case and dial since the minute hand does not reach the minute track. Some claim that Rolex simply used the same handset from the 36mm Explorer. 

Then, in 2016, Rolex presented a revamped version of the reference 214270 Explorer with a dial that not only included a proportional handset but also luminescent-filled 3, 6, and 9 hour markers – something we hadn’t seen since the vintage Rolex Explorer 1016. Therefore, the Explorer 214270 MK1 has non-lumed 3/6/9 numerals and a shorter minute hand while Explorer 214270 MK2 has luminous 3/6/9 hour markers and a longer minute hand. 

Regardless if you decide upon a 36mm or a 39mm version, an MK1 dial or an MK2 dial, what you get with all Explorer models is a durable stainless steel Rolex sports watch with a classic and discreet design that has endured almost 70 years of history. 

The post Rolex Explorer: Top 3 Things to Know Before Buying appeared first on Bob's Watches.

Is Patek Philippe a Good Investment?

Any kind of investing inherently involves some degree of risk. In fact, it is the risk that is its defining factor. There’s always the chance of taking a hit caused by souring market conditions, whether you opt for stocks, bonds, mutual funds, or any other financial product. It is no different when investing in tangible objects – things like property, cars, paintings, or watches. However, investing in luxury timepieces from top-tier brands such as Rolex and Patek Philippe is one of those subjects which splits opinion in the collecting world.

Many people believe that watches should only be bought for the sheer enjoyment, pleasure, and satisfaction of owning and wearing a beautifully realized work of art on the wrist. Here at Bob’s Watches we certainly agree those reasons should be the most important considerations when buying a luxury timepiece, but there is no escaping the fact that (if chosen wisely) there are certain models and certain brands that can accrue value extremely well. And in the current era, there are only two manufacturers that can claim to perform consistently year after year; Rolex and Patek Philippe.

Investing in Patek Philippe 

It’s no surprise to see Rolex up there. By far the most successful and widely-known watch brand of all time, even those with no interest whatsoever in horology are familiar with the name. Not so with Patek Philippe. Founded in 1839, the family-run company may not have the same universal recognition among the general public, but within the industry, there is arguably no marque more revered.

The two brands are actually quite different entities. While Rolex is a mass producer of luxury watches, making an estimated one million timepieces each year, it is thought that Patek has only made around a million pieces since they started, 180 years ago. Each Patek Philippe watch is crafted from the finest materials available and hand-assembled, a process that can take as long as 12 months, or even longer for the more complicated examples. Patek Philippe is also responsible for a litany of innovations, including the split-seconds chronograph, the minute repeater, and the perpetual calendar.

With all that in mind, it is no wonder that the cost for the average Patek Philippe exists on another plane entirely to Rolex. Expect a starting price of around $20,000 for what could be described as an “entry-level” piece, such as the beautifully elegant Calatrava. At the top end, even a production model from their Grand Complications Collection can run up into the hundreds of thousands of dollars. And that is omitting the one-offs, such as the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A-010, currently the most expensive watch ever sold at auction, which brought in an incredible of $31m at Only Watch 2019 .

Style-wise, Patek Philippe is exemplified by the most exacting attention to detail – from their unparalleled dial design to the extraordinary virtuosity poured into their in-house movements, each with a level of finishing which is second to none. So, between their matchless aesthetics, extreme exclusivity, flawless heritage, supreme engineering, and enduring reputation (everyone from the Dalai Lama to the two remaining Beatles are fans of the brand) Patek Philippe really is at the top of the haute horology food chain.

Which Patek?

If you are thinking of buying a Patek with one eye on its future investment potential, some thorough research of the current market is definitely to be advised. There is a huge amount of information out there, but studying the different watch types and their specific features will be time well spent. Like anything, a particular model can fall in and out of fashion over time and so its price will be affected – and your first Patek Philippe watch should really be the total opposite of an impulse purchase.

Cultivating a relationship with one or several watch dealers is also a good idea. These are usually the people with the inside line on what models are becoming available and can help you avoid paying over the odds. Plus, their expertise on the brand itself is likely to be invaluable, sourcing the exact pieces to allow you to achieve the best investment return. However, all that being said, this is still a watch that you are going to want to live with and wear, even if only on special occasions, and that must also influence your decision. Your own personal taste should play a major part in the final choice.

If you want to wear the watch as a daily companion, steering away from a vintage piece or anything too complicated may well be the right thing to do. While Patek watches are certainly built to last, it is important to respect the sort of delicate artistry that has gone into every one of them. However, if it is going to be your dress watch or a once-in-a-blue-moon thing, then a classic from the archives can certainly become a fast accumulating asset. Keeping all that in mind, below we look at three definite possibilities for your first Patek Philippe watch.

Patek Philippe Calatrava

Dating back to 1932, the Calatrava is the marque’s original dress model and is about as simple as Patek, or any watch can get. Regarded as the epitome of all-round good taste, it is a clean, uncluttered creation and the perfect symbol of the brand’s underlying design philosophy. Unlike some of the more quirky pieces in the catalog, the Calatrava has never been subject to the fickleness of trends and as such, its value tends to remain both strong and predictable.

Vintage examples are still highly desirable and something like a ref. 3590 ‘Jumbo’ Calatrava from the 1970s would make a perfect addition to any collection. The first automatic piece to be given Patek’s ‘Clous de Paris’ hobnail bezel, the 35mm white gold watch comes with an automatic caliber 28-255 finished with ‘fausses côtes’ decoration. Prices of around $20,000 for a model in excellent condition are to be expected, but savings can often be found with a little searching on the pre-owned market.

If you would rather have a brand new watch, the Calatrava could also be the ideal choice as they are just about the only model that an official Patek dealer regularly has available, in much the same way that Rolex Authorized Retailers rarely suffer a Datejust shortage, but you will be hard-pressed to find any of their stainless steel sports models available for immediate purchase. A modern piece like the 5196G Small Seconds is truly stunning, again in white gold, with a silvery gray dial and applied gold chisel-shaped indexes. Manually winding and water-resistant to 30M (although you still should not swim with it), it retails for around $22,680.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 

One of the most recognizable shapes in horology and one of the hottest watches in the world, the Nautilus represents the more contemporary side of Patek Philippe. Stemming from 1976 and designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, it is an iconic luxury sports watch, found on the wrists of A-list celebrities the world over.

The first Nautilus, the stainless ref. 3700, took its styling cues from a ship’s porthole, bending to company owner Philippe Stern’s passion for sailing. The 42mm case was an unusual octagonal shape, with convex flanks curving outwards and a hinged front giving the watch ‘ears’ on either side of its case. The dial also had seafaring overtones, the horizontal striping reminiscent of a yacht’s teak decking. Later references included smaller models which took the size down to 37mm and a ladies quartz version was also introduced. Complications were added, such as moonphase and power reserve indicators, and precious metals joined the lineup.

In 2006, the 40th anniversary year, the ref. 5711/1A emerged, a reworking of the original, and the current examples in the portfolio are now among the most sought after pieces in the world, with waiting lists for new models allegedly close to a decade in length. Much like with Rolex, it is the curse of the luxury steel sports watch and prices for Patek Nautilus watches on the pre-owned market are soaring. Expect to pay twice the retail rate (or more) for one, but with the flip side that it is likely to keep appreciating. Undoubtedly one of the most desirable watches from any manufacturer, a stainless steel Nautilus is also a shrewd investment.

Perpetual Calendar 

Not a model name, but rather a trademark complication that makes its way onto several pieces, Patek was the creator of the very first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925. Today, there are more than two dozen different examples in the catalog that feature the complication, mainly in the brand’s Grand Complications series, along with a white gold Nautilus, the ref. 5740/1G-001. In case you were wondering, a perpetual calendar is one step above an annual calendar in that it not only compensates for the different number of days in a month, but also automatically adjusts for leap years as well. The next time a perpetual calendar needs to be manually corrected is in the year 2100.

Patek Philippe is considered to be the father of the complication and their watches with the feature make up some of the surest investment targets out there. They are by no means cheap, which is to be expected considering the staggering amount of work that goes both into the design and execution of every movement. Prices for a contemporary model start at around $85,000 for the ref. 5320G, a beautiful Art Deco-inspired throwback with three-tier lugs and lacquered cream dial.

The good news is that prices for older references (such as from the ref. 5140 range) are far more realistic. Very similar in style to the current ref. 5327 – 37mm, gold, and with a round case – they can be found pre-owned for less than $40,000. Always impressive, and actually useful, perpetual calendar Patek watches can be among the most profitable models from the brand, above and beyond the more niche complications.

Those are just a few recommendations for budding Patek collectors. There’s no doubt that to join those ranks you are going to need some serious financial means, but like all things, it is a case of you getting out what you put in. There are few certainties in horology, but a Patek Philippe watch holding its value or appreciating over time is about as close as it gets.

To paraphrase the brand’s famous advertising campaign: ‘You never actually own a Patek Philippe, you merely look after it for the next generation… or at least hold onto it until its worth a shedload of cash.’

The post Is Patek Philippe a Good Investment? appeared first on Bob's Watches.

Rolex Presidential – Buying New vs. Pre-Owned

Rolex’s Day-Date – commonly nicknamed the ‘President’ or the ‘Rolex Presidential’ – has been the brand’s flagship offering since its debut in 1956. The first automatically winding, waterproof wristwatch to display both the date and the day of the week spelled out in full, it was always, and remains, the number one choice of the world’s elite. From its inception, the Day-Date has been constructed from only the finest precious metals – three flavors of 18k gold or the shimmering luxury of platinum – with stainless steel never playing a part, not even in the two-tone form of Rolex’s iconic Rolesor concoction.

The watch’s fan base reads like a Who’s-Who of the great and the good, the famous and infamous. From captains of industry to leaders of nations, through to titans of the music, sport or entertainment worlds, there is no better tacit announcement of having ‘made it’ than wearing a Rolex Day-Date on your wrist. So how do you join this exclusive and elusive gathering? Well, we have some good news for you there. The Rolex Presidential represents one of the most tempting pre-owned bargains out the brand’s entire catalog, offering some truly significant savings over the official retail price.

A Brief Overview of the Rolex Presidential

Rolex has two main collections, the Professional and the Classic, with the Day-Date in the latter alongside other big names such as the Datejust and Sky-Dweller. While it is certainly a dress watch, it is also one of the most chameleonic models in the lineup, issued with so many different metal, dial color, bezel, and bracelet variations that it has almost countless personalities.

At one end, a white gold piece with a smooth, domed bezel and a neutral-color dial is about as understated as you could want; whereas in yellow gold with diamonds and sapphires swamping every surface, it is unashamedly grandstanding. In between, there is a combination to suit almost every taste, whether you are the proverbial wallflower or the life of the party. But through it all, the underlying architecture remains consistent. The basic shape of the Day-Date is perfectly conservative, very much a blank slate onto which Rolex drape all their various fineries.

Until 2008, the only size available for the Rolex Presidential was 36mm. That was the year the short-lived Day-Date II emerged, a 41mm addition to the range that granted the increased dimensions customers had been clamoring for, but one with individual proportions that split too many opinions to stay in production for very long. The thicker bezel and lugs on this larger model lost some of the Rolex President’s former elegance and it was replaced in 2015 with the Day-Date 40, losing a millimeter in size but returning to the former graceful profile.

The Rolex Presidential as a Pre-Owned Buy

There are a number of reasons as to exactly why the Rolex Day-Date makes such an enticing pre-owned purchase. First and foremost is the question of availability. Unlike the majority of their steel sports models, Rolex has never really restricted the supply of the President to their retail network, meaning that those who have wanted one (and who could afford it) have had few problems locating a new model. Therefore, a fair number of Rolex Presidential watches make it onto the secondary market fairly frequently, and there is no real shortage at retailers to drive pre-owned prices up above retail.

Secondly, the Rolex Day-Date’s stubborn choice of only precious metal construction is another explanation. The vast majority of brand-new watches immediately depreciate the moment that you leave the store with them, with solid gold or platinum models often taking the largest hit in value. Because precious metal watches are markedly more expensive than stainless steel models, far fewer buyers are in the position to purchase them, resulting in demand on the pre-owned market that is significantly lower than their less-expensive stainless steel counterparts. This means that you often have a pretty good chance of finding a used Rolex President at a significant discount compared to its original retail price.

And thirdly, the Day-Date’s iconic aesthetics have to be taken into account. There have been several generations of the Rolex President over the last 60+ years. With the looks more or less cemented from the get-go, new references have generally been announced to introduce a noteworthy upgrade to the watch’s movement rather than any major outward design alterations. Take a model from the original series and stand it up next to a contemporary example, and you will see relatively little difference in the styling despite the multitude of upgrades and advancements that have occurred over the years. So, if you can get a pre-owned watch that looks pretty much indistinguishable from the latest model for a fraction of the price, why wouldn’t you?

Which Rolex Presidential Should You Go For?

Take a look through any pre-owned watch dealer’s Rolex Day-Date selection and you will see the most accessibly priced examples come from the ref. 18XX family. This is one of the longest-running series of all the President iterations, launched in 1959 and not superseded until the end of the 1970s.

The ref. 1803, a 36mm watch made from either yellow, white, or rose gold (and platinum very sparingly) and topped with a fluted bezel, is by far the most prevalent. You can actually pick up one of these pieces on a leather strap for as little as $6,000, which is an amazing price for such a vital piece of Rolex’s history. If you want your vintage Rolex Day-Date on the eponymous President bracelet, a three-piece semicircular-link band (again exclusively crafted from precious metal), prices start at just under the $10,000 mark, which seems like a bargain for a solid-gold Rolex watch.

So what, apart from the gulf in prices, are the main differences between that model and its modern-day equivalent? Look carefully and you will see that the vintage watch has slightly slimmer lugs than the new one. The crystal over the lens is made from acrylic rather than sapphire, and the bracelet will have hollow center links, making it lighter on the wrist than the current version. The most significant distinctions, however, are all found on the inside.

The ref. 18XX actually went through two movements during its term, the early examples powered by the Cal. 1555, and then from 1967, the Cal. 1556. The pair share the vast majority of elements, but the later movement beats at 19,800vph as opposed to the 18,000vph of the older mechanism. Then from 1972 onwards, a hacking function was added, allowing the seconds hand to stop when setting the time. However, neither was equipped with a Quickset function, the feature that gives the wearer the ability to set the date or day display independently from the time. With the ref. 18XX, changing the day or date display involves winding the main hands through 24-hours.

Compare that with a brand new model, powered by the next generation Cal. 3255 movement. This is the most recent result of Rolex’s typically relentless drive to perfect their every caliber, stuffed to the gills with the latest technology and materials, including the blue Parachrom hairspring and Chronergy escapement. Giving a superb and completely reliable performance, it also ticks away at the standard 28,800vph and comes with a Double Quickset, making the newer piece a lot more convenient than the vintage one. But set that against the price, which presently starts at around $33,150, and you have to decide whether or not the extra cost is worth it to you.

Later Rolex Presidential Models

The closer you get to the current production models, the more expensive the Rolex President becomes. The follow-up series from the ref. 18XX, the ref. 180XX, adds about $1,000 on the starting price, and the subsequent ref. 182XX from 1988 adds another couple thousand on top of that. These both contain movements with the high beat 28,800vph frequency, giving that trademark glide to the seconds hand. Additionally, these models also feature Quickset functions – the 180XX features a single quickset (date only), while the 182XX series features a double Quickset, allowing for both the day and date displays to be adjusted independently from the time-telling hands.

The ref. 118XXX range kicked off in 2000, virtually identical to the previous five-digit reference Rolex watches but with updated cases, bracelets, and clasps. These could well be the best of all worlds, featuring the thicker high-polish lugs and solid bracelets of the newer Rolex Presidential watches, but still significantly more affordable than their present-day counterparts. Beautifully styled and with a workhorse of an engine (the Cal. 3155), they are thoroughly modern but can be had for less than $17,000 – which is around half the price of the comparable model in today’s lineup.

So, is it ever worth buying a brand new Rolex Day-Date? Well, it’s really all a question of scale. The older the watch, the generally the less expensive it is. If you wanted a 36mm piece from the current ref. 128XXXseries, you might save a few thousand dollars on the pre-owned market for a model that is less than a year old. However, the difference in price may be small enough to warrant treating yourself to the whole boutique experience, being the first person to snap on that Crownclasp and getting your name on the warranty card. You then get the peace of mind of knowing that no one else has ever worn that watch, and you have Rolex’s full warranty behind the piece should you experience any issues with it.

For other Rolex Presidential models that have been in circulation for a few years, especially some of the larger 40mm and 41mm models, there are often substantial savings to be had on the secondary market. You could well find one for around $10,000 less than a new piece, which is a serious amount of money to save and a big incentive to buy a used Rolex President.

Rolex’s Biggest Bargain?

There’s no doubt that the Day-Date is one of Rolex’s, and horology’s, most iconic watches. Seen as the ultimate statement of prestige, it has a heritage and legacy that is second to none. However, it often comes as quite a shock to buyers as to just how attainable Rolex Presidential watches can be. For less than $10k, you can join perhaps the most select club in the industry, wearing the model that has most definitely earned its nickname.

We stock both vintage and modern examples of this beautiful and iconic Rolex watch, so shop through our online store to take advantage of our everyday low prices and industry-leading selection!

The post Rolex Presidential – Buying New vs. Pre-Owned appeared first on Bob's Watches.

Bob’s Spotlight: Rolex Submariner 116619 “Smurf”

While the bright blue Submariner ref. 116619 may be nicknamed after a children’s cartoon character, there is certainly nothing child-like about this ultra-premium Rolex dive watch. Beefy, incredibly luxurious, and rather expensive, it’s a version of the Rolex Submariner that is seldom seen out in the wild, so let’s shine the spotlight on the “Smurf” Submariner 116619.

The ref. 116619 Submariner “Smurf” is not your ordinary dive watch.

The Look of the Rolex Submariner 116619

The Rolex Submariner ref. 116619 made its debut at Baselworld 2008. To the untrained eye, this may look like a standard stainless steel Submariner, but it’s far from your average dive watch. The Submariner 116619 is crafted from solid 18k white gold, which certainly makes this more of a luxury sports watch than a Rolex tool watch. However, like all Rolex dive watches, the Submariner 116619 is built for the task at hand should the need arise – but more on that later.

The entire case and bracelet of the Smurf are crafted from solid 18k white gold.

The Submariner ref. 116619 retains the characteristic 40mm Oyster case but features wider lugs and bigger crown guards than its predecessors, therefore it wears noticeably bigger, despite actually not having a larger case diameter. As a contemporary model, this Rolex Submariner is outfitted with a unidirectional rotating bezel fitted with a Cerachrom ceramic insert, in addition to thicker hands and larger hour markers on the dial.

However, the most striking feature of the white gold Submariner ref. 116619 is the vibrant blue color of the dial and bezel, which is the reason for its “Smurf” nickname. It’s worth noting that the blue dial on the Smurf is different than the blue dials fitted to other gold and two-tone Submariner watches. While blue Submariner dials have historically been a dark blue with a metallic sunburst finish, the dial on the Smurf is a bright flat blue color with a glossy lacquered surface.

Even the Oysterlock clasp with Glidelock extension system on the Smurf Submariner are made from solid white gold.

The Functionality of the Rolex Submariner 116619

Despite the fact that very few Submariner ref. 116619 watches will probably never go for a dive given its luxurious 18k white gold construction, it is still built as a professional diving watch. As such, like all modern Rolex Submariners, the reference 116619 can safely plunge to 1,000 feet (300 meters) deep below the surface of the ocean.

Additionally, to accommodate thick diving suits, the Submariner ref. 116619 features the clever Glidelock extension system on the clasp of its white gold Oyster bracelet.No tools are required to make the bracelet longer or shorter, and the bracelet can be expanded up to about 20mm in 2mm increments. Should the bracelet need to be adjusted, simply slide the Glidelock mechanism until the perfect fit is reached.

You can tell a white gold Smurf Submariner apart from a stainless steel one, because the Smurf will always have a blue dial and bezel.

For optimal legibility in low light conditions, the hands and blue dial of the Smurf Submariner are finished with Chromalight, which is Rolex’s own proprietary luminescent material that glows blue rather than green. It’s said that Chromalight lasts longer than traditional green-glowing lume and is easier to see in the dark. In addition to the luminescent hands and hour markers, there’s also a luminous plot on the bezel to make tracking immersion times while diving even easier.

Powering the time and date functions of the Submariner ref. 116619 “Smurf” is the famous Rolex in-house Caliber 3135 automatic movement, which offers users a 48 hour of power reserve. First introduced in the late 1980s, the Cal 3135 movement is a reliable and proven workhorse, and it is widely considered to be among the best mechanical movements for everyday wear and use.

While the case and bracelet are white gold, the bezel is crafted from durable blue Cerachrom.

The Popularity of the Rolex Submariner 116619

With its dramatic look and hefty price tag, it’s not surprising that the solid 18k white gold Submariner ref. 116619 is a popular model among celebrities. We’ve spotted it on the wrist of celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay, actor Will Arnett, rapper Tinie Tempah, and even actor, comedian, and musician Jack Black.

However, in addition to celebrities, the blue Submariner ref. 116619 is a popular choice among Rolex fans too. However, due to having an official retail price of $38,350 (as of January 2020), owning one of these incredibly luxurious Rolex dive watches is reserved for only a select few.

While not everyone is a fan of its “Smurf” nickname, countless collectors around the world love the unique look and functionality of the Submariner ref. 116619. What are your thoughts on this ultra-premium solid white gold and bright blue Submariner? Leave us your thoughts in the comments section below.

Would you buy a Rolex “Smurf” Submariner? Tell us in the comments below.

The post Bob’s Spotlight: Rolex Submariner 116619 “Smurf” appeared first on Bob's Watches.