Panerai Luminor Bronzo PAM 968: “For Heroes Only”

For Panerai collectors, the brand’s rare bronze watches have always been highly prized – particularly as they were only ever made available to well-connected Paneristi and not the general public. Now Panerai is breaking with that tradition by offering a new Luminor Bronzo diving watch (PAM 968), with only five examples released each quarter, available to anyone via Panerai’s e-commerce site and at the brand’s watch boutiques.

Panerai is bringing the Bronzo back for 2019 in the form of the PAM 968 (Image: Panerai).

Bronze, Patina, and the Passage of Time

Sized at 47mm, which could be considered somewhat out of fashion these days, the new PAM 968 Bronzo is a throwback to the original XL size of the military-derived diving watch. But Panerai is literally going big with this piece, declaring it to be “rare, iconic, and tough” as well as “for heroes only.”

Bronze, which Panerai first used for a diving watch back in 2011, “reinforces the brand’s connection with the sea where bronze is used not only for its resistance to the corrosive elements of seawater,” Panerai notes. Additionally, it is also “an extraordinary and fascinating material which matures with the passage of time, acquiring a patina which gives unique character to each timepiece.”

The PAM 968 Bronzo will be packaged with both a brown leather and a green rubber strap (Image: Panerai).

The New Panerai Luminor Bronzo PAM 968

The new Luminor Bronzo PAM 968, features a ceramic bezel, giving the copper-heavy alloy a modern makeover, and it is powered by the automatic caliber P.9010 movement. Developed entirely in-house at the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel, the caliber P.9010 features central hour and minute hands, a small seconds dial at 9 o’clock, and the date at 3 o’clock.

A true professional diving watch, the Luminor Bronzo is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters, and features a see-through sapphire crystal caseback. Additionally the new PAM 968 Bronzo is supplied with both a hand-stitched brown leather strap with a titanium buckle and a military-style green rubber strap for undersea adventures.

The Italian-Swiss watchmaker declares that the release of this impressive piece “proves that Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee can combine the past and the future, technology and design, with impeccable skill,” and we’d be inclined to agree – even if we can’t really picture ourselves wearing this beast out to dinner.

The automatic Caliber P.9010 movement sits on full display through the sapphire caseback (Image: Panerai).

 

Luxury Watch Buying Guide – How to Shop Original vs. Authentic

A lot of people – even seasoned collectors – can find themselves confused when trying to distinguish between original and authentic watches. The trick? Stop thinking of the words as synonymous. In this guide, you’ll learn about the big differences between these two categories of luxury watches and how it can help you be a more educated shopper and collector.

What Are Authentic Watches?

An authentic watch is undisputed in origin, and not a replica or copy. This means that in order for something to be authentic, it has to be 100% real. Authentic watches are genuine pieces from brands – think of the big players like Rolex, Tudor, Omega, Patek Philippe and more.
Authentic watches are:

• Genuine pieces from the brand
• Not a copy or replica

We use the word authentic in the industry to distinguish between genuine timepieces and fakes that are widely copied and sold. When a dealer gets their hands on a watch, the first thing they are going to do is check the authenticity of the watch; and as a buyer, you should be doing the same. As a buyer, the first step in guaranteeing you get an authentic watch is by always buying directly from the brand or a trusted and reputable dealer who can ensure that the watch is authentic.
But how can you tell whether a watch is authentic? Well, we’ve created some great guides to help educate buyers and collectors – both on what’s real, and how to spot inauthentic details. Head over here to check out our official guide on the Top Ways To Spot A Fake Rolex.

What Are Original Watches?

To be an original watch, the timepiece has to be an authentic watch. Because when you see a watch listed as original, it means that it is both a genuine timepiece from that brand, and one that has not had any later-era updates or alterations since it was manufactured and originally sold.
Original watches are:

• Authentic
• Have not had parts replaced with later-era equivalents or been modified/altered in any way

Sometimes in the industry, we also refer to original watches as ‘honest’ watches. And when we look at pre-owned timepieces – especially vintage watches, we often look for originality. This means we look for things like correct factory-installed parts, whether they’re scratched, chipped or faded.
We also look for things like custom details that were added after purchasing, like diamonds or enhanced bezels which were later-era additions and unoriginal to the piece. There are even many buyers and collectors who will favor watches that have never had a polishing or servicing that could have hindered the natural aging process of the timepiece.

Today there is quite a high premium on original vintage pieces simply because they’re extremely rare and becoming increasingly harder to find. Decades ago, when people bought luxury watches like Rolex for example, it was perfectly normal for them to get the watch serviced, polished, or have parts replaced if you scratched or dented them up. The problem is that while they were done by the company with authentic later-era parts, they still weren’t original parts or features of the watch. Since this was such a common practice, today it’s really special – and highly valuable – if a vintage watch is totally original.
For more information on what to look for when trying to verify the authenticity of a luxury watch, be sure to check out our YouTube video on how to spot a fake Rolex right here.

The post Luxury Watch Buying Guide – How to Shop Original vs. Authentic appeared first on Bob's Watches.
Luxury Watch Buying Guide – How to Shop Original vs. Authentic

Best Rolex Watches For First Time Buyers

Когда задают вопрос о том, какие часы покупать и когда, каждый «эксперт» отрасли, вероятно, начинает свой ответ с некоторой вариации одного и того же предостережения: покупайте для любви, а не для денег. Коллекционирование часов - это дикое и непредсказуемое хобби. Известно, что цены на аукционы для классических моделей достигают восьми (а затем и нескольких) цифр, но большинство часов Rolex там обесцениваются, как только вы надеваете их на запястье.

Дорога к моим первым часам Rolex

I have a young friend who is ready to buy his first luxury watch. He’s been thinking about it for weeks (good boy), but every few days he calls me (bad boy) and labors the same point: He wants a watch that is an investment (even worse boy). There exists in modern watch collecting a problem: collectibility is now treated as a selling point. But the problem with everybody and their dogs knowing that something is collectible is that everybody and their dogs are quite likely to collect it.
The most expensive wristwatch ever sold was the Rolex Daytona worn by Paul Newman himself. It fetched $17. million at a 2017 auction. That’s a pretty good price for a watch that was so unpopular when it was initially launched that it lingered on dealers’ shelves with relatively few actually making their way onto customers’ wrists. One of those wrists happened to be Paul Newman, who had reputedly been bought the watch by his wife, Joanne Woodward. And it isn’t that she made a sound investment, but rather her purchase created an investment piece by her gifting it to her stratospherically famous husband.

This generation’s Paul Newman Daytonas are currently flying under the radar. Yes, the Rolex GMT-Master II has already doubled in value, and is likely going to appreciate further due to Rolex carefully managing the supply of that model to the ravenous public, but only by 200%, 300%, 500%. Now, that’s not too bad at all, but the really crazy money is likely hiding somewhere in the far corner of the industry and we won’t know what it is until it’s too late to rush out, cash in hand, and “collect” it.
So what should we do in the meantime? I told my little friend, desperate to see a return on his money that he should be patient. He should wait to fall in love. He should truly get to know himself before he pulls the trigger. And then, when he’s good and ready, he should buy a Rolex anyway.

Rolex has graduated from a watch brand into a seismic force to which the regular rules do not apply. While it is far (far) from guaranteed that any Rolex watch you buy will appreciate from the day you bought it, time is showing us that these models, both old and new, endure the fluctuations of the watch market very well indeed.
And, in fact, buying a pre-owned model might well be the very best thing you can do in the case of Rolex. Many of the new professional models are simply unattainable without waiting an inordinate amount of time – or without paying an exorbitant grey market mark-up to skip the queue. Older professional models are available for prices below those of a new model, and present the chance to pick-up a potential classic while also expanding your knowledge of the crown.

Part of the joy of the watchmaking game is getting to know the tiny ticker on your wrist. Buying modern watches because they are in vogue is all well and good, but it can sometimes be a bit of a rushed exercise (thanks to all that competition). A far nicer, and (in my opinion) rewarding way to pursue this hobby is to consciously decouple oneself from the pursuit of luxury, or status, or the latest trend, and instead put stock in the long road. Read about old models. Pore over their nuances. Allow yourself to appreciate how certain models and certain designs can somehow, almost inexplicably to a modern mind, encapsulate an era so perfectly. These wordless time capsules are worth seeking, as they can, in a single glance, remind us of a simpler time when things didn’t move so fast.
My first Rolex was a Rolesor Datejust from 1985. I bought it pre-loved after finally managing to get over my thirst for Pepsi, and having hit the history books in search of inspiration. It cost me around $4,000 and it looked brand new but so satisfyingly anachronistic. Vintage is not for everyone, but before you dismiss it as an option, remember that whatever you like right now will be old someday soon. And it is only with the passing of time that we’re really able to understand what has managed to stand its test.
For more information on Rolex’s best-selling watch collection of all time, be sure to watch our YouTube video on this history of the Rolex Datejust right here.

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Rolex Story Telling Series – Vintage Submariner from U.S. Navy Diver

The Rolex Submariner 5513 is the quintessential vintage Rolex dive watch and a top choice for serious collectors around the world. First created in the 1960s as a precision timing tool for professional scuba divers, the reference 5513 Rolex Submariner has become a sought-after and coveted vintage Rolex model, due to its classic style and durable purpose-built design. As these watches were originally viewed as reliable underwater tools, many of the surviving examples of reference 5513 watches are accompanied by remarkable stories, often tied to scientific or military use.

In this exclusive video from Bob’s watches, we’re going to take a closer look at a very special ref. 5513 Rolex Submariner that belonged to a professional U.S. Navy diver named Raymond. We are going to talk a little bit about the different features of the Submariner 5513 and discover what makes it the perfect timepiece for professional divers around the globe like Raymond.

Great Individuals Own Great Watches

When Raymond became a 2nd class Navy diver in 1968, graduating first in class from dive school in the Philippines – he purchased a Rolex Submariner watch: a reference 5513. Raymond had chosen to become a diver with the Navy because it paid approximately 50% more than the average salary, and the additional income would allow him to pay off his student loans more quickly. In the late 1960s, the sport of scuba diving was still in its formative years, and having a reliable way to keep time underwater was an absolute must for any professional diver. Additionally, Raymond’s role as a Quartermaster with the Navy involved a high degree of navigational proficiency, and having a high-precision watch meant that he could be more accurate with his various navigation calculations.

Great watches inspire great men… and even better stories.

Raymond purchased his Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 from the Navy base in the Philippines. Slightly more expensive than other watches on offer at the time (including a Doxa with an orange dial and an Omega Seamaster dive watch), Raymond chose the Rolex Submariner due to the reputation that Rolex watches had for being highly accurate timekeepers. Raymond once tested the accuracy of his Submariner, and despite it not being fitted with a chronometer-certified movement, his reference 5513 only lost 2 seconds per month, which is well-within the timekeeping parameters established for chronometer accuracy by the COSC. Equipped with an easy-to-use rotating timing bezel, crown guards, and a highly-legible dial, the ref. 5513 Submariner was a perfect timekeeping tool for Raymond to use while diving deep below the surface of the ocean.

After attending 1st class diving school in Washington DC, where he graduated 2nd in his class, Raymond continued exploring the deep while diving in the North Sea with his Rolex Submariner 5513 strapped to his wrist. During 1st class diving school, Raymond learned mixed gas diving and underwater demolitions, which he would go on to do all over the globe during his incredible and storied career. His remarkable life would lead him to dive all around the world (approximately 30-40 different countries), from the west coast of the United States in San Diego and Washington, to Vietnam, Guam, and the Philippines – just to name a few.

The reference 5513 was the last Rolex Submariner to feature an acrylic crystal.

As a professional diver, Raymond owned 3 different Rolex watches. His first reference 5513 Rolex Submariner was stolen at knifepoint; however, he quickly replaced it with another ref. 5513 as the watch was an essential piece of equipment for his duties as a diver for the Navy. That second Rolex Submariner 5513 stayed with him throughout his entire career as a professional diver and is the exact same watch that we have featured in our video today.

During his time deep-sea diving with mixed gases in the North Sea, the unique demands of saturation diving caused Raymond to pick up a second Rolex dive watch – a reference 1665 Sea-Dweller. When saturation diving, divers spend extended periods of time in dry pressurized chambers, where they breathe a special mixture of gas in which some of the nitrogen is replaced by helium. Due to the extended periods of time spent at extremely high pressures, tiny helium molecules get squeezed past the gaskets of traditional dive watches and get trapped inside the case. During decompression, the trapped helium expands, creating a pressure that risks blowing traditionally mounted crystals clear off their watches.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller was specifically developed to contend with the unique challenges of saturation diving and became Raymond’s go-to dive watch for all of his various deep-sea diving missions. Despite having a ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller, Raymond held onto his Submariner 5513 during all of his years as a professional diver. After retiring from diving, Raymond passed his Sea-Dweller on to a family member, choosing to keep his trusty Submariner, until he gave it to his son, who later (with Raymond’s blessing) sold it to us.

Raymond’s ref. 5513 Submariner has an early matte “Meters First” dial.

Rolex first introduced the reference 5513 Submariner in 1962, and the watch remained in production until approximately 1989. During this time, a number of changes and updates occurred, with many pertaining to just the dial. Between 1962 to 1966, the first Rolex Submariner 5513 models featured glossy gilt dials, which were later replaced by matte dials that remained in production from approximately 1966 to 1984. From 1984 until the end of production of the reference 5513 Submariner in 1989, Rolex switched to gloss dials with applied hour markers with white gold surrounds – similar to the style of dials that get fitted to the modern Submariner watches that Rolex manufactures today.

Raymond’s No-Date Rolex Submariner features an early “Meters First” matte black dial with tritium lume coated hands and indexes, protected by a robust stainless steel case and a thick domed acrylic crystal. Fitted with a stainless steel Oyster bracelet and a bi-directional rotating timing bezel with an aluminum insert, the Rolex Submariner 5513 has been a timepiece favored by professional divers like Raymond for its timeless design, legendary accuracy, and rock-solid durability.

A photo of Ramond with his dive suit and Submariner from his days with the U.S. Navy.

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Rolex Story Telling Series – Vintage Submariner from U.S. Navy Diver

How To Store Your Rolex Watches – Storage Tips For New & Experienced Collectors

Where to keep (or should that be how to keep) one’s watches is very much down to personal preference, which can (of course) be influenced by the size of one’s collection, one’s lifestyle, and one’s financial or spatial means. Unless you only own one watch, such as a Rolex Submariner, and wear it every day, you will likely need a place to keep your watches when they are not on your wrist. Watch storage options can include the original boxes, display cabinets, cases, wraps, wallets, winders, safes, and others so let’s explore a few of the most common and the positives and negatives associated with them.

Original boxes

This one is probably not ideal for many people and is a suggestion I would only advocate if space were severely limited. Keeping the original box and papers of a watch you have bought yourself or managed to obtain pre-loved is essential should you ever wish to sell the watch for its maximum secondary market value, but using these boxes as storage systems is not a good idea on several fronts.

Firstly, overusing a box (opening, closing, handling, for example) will only harm its condition and reduce its value. I store all of my original boxes in a separate box in a cool, dry location, away from any kind of light to prevent the exterior fading or becoming laden with dust.

Secondly, it just looks a bit messy. You can’t see the watches at a glance in most styles of packaging, and in some cases, boxes from the same brand have no distinguishing marks to give you a clue as to what you’re about to see when you open it. For me, as soon as a watch comes out of its original packaging, it shouldn’t return there until its time to send it off to a new home.

 

Display Cabinets

A display cabinet is a bit of an old-fashioned concept in this slick, tech-heavy world in which we live, but for those who prefer to arrange their watches behind glass in a static position, it is still an option. Individual watch stands are ever more available (with a new model from Watch Pod hitting the market just recently) and can make for a characterful display when marshaled with care and attention.

 

Display Cases

This is my preferred method of “long-term” storage. I like to see my collection in front of me, so I have it spread across three sizeable Peli Cases, which are capable of standing up to all kinds of abuse, as well as feeding into my love of industrially-styled, utilitarian items. The downside to this model in the past has been obtainability. The kind of case I would advocate has been hard to find with pre-cut foam inserts of sufficient quality. Luckily, after a few conversations with the product development team at Peli, this may be about to change, so watch this space for new options in this style hitting the market soon.

 

Wraps and Wallets

One of the reasons I favor cases is because I am often on the move, and sometimes need to travel with a large number of watches in my possession for fairs or RedBar meet-ups. However, sometimes traveling with 15-20 watches is not only unnecessary but simply untenable due to luggage restrictions. Here watch wraps and watch wallets become essential pieces of kit, and while I wouldn’t leave my Rolex timepieces in either for a significant period, I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve relied on these light-weight and durable options to get my beaters from A to B. Possibly the best watch wallet I’ve ever had the joy to handle was made by Schofield Watch Company, which has a fantastic range of exquisitely designed curios in its online store.

 

Watch Winders

And now on to the big two. Watch winders have become a bit of a “must-have” accessory for neophyte luxury watch owners, but I’m personally not a huge fan. I think the environment (with the watch well protected from all sides and mounted on an adjustable carrier) is excellent, but I don’t believe it is necessarily good for watches to be running constantly.

Look, it is certainly true that leaving a watch unused for a long time is unhealthy for it (the delicate oils may dry up or coagulate through inactivity), but for a few days or a couple of weeks at a time, it makes no practical difference. Conversely, leaving a watch running constantly obviously increases the wear and tear sustained by the components, which are of course working harder and for longer than is necessary.

The key to whether a watch winder is a good thing for your collection comes down to its size and composition. If, for example, you have watches that are very rarely worn, it’s not a bad idea to give them a little activity every couple of weeks to make sure that the lubricants are still being worked around, but there is no need to leave the winders of these seldom donned models running in perpetuity.

However, speaking of perpetuity, certain models would benefit from life on a watch winder, and those are very complicated models featuring things like perpetual calendars or complex moonphase indications that can run for over 100 years without needing to be reset (assuming the watch never stops). Watches with this kind of complication (should they be automatic, of course) would very much benefit from a watch winder and are the main reason for their existence in my mind.

 

Safes

Probably the very best place to keep your Rolex collection (if you can afford it) is a top-quality safe. There are some stunning options on the market these days with sections for automatic watches, manual watches, spare parts, straps, original boxes, and literature, and offering external finishes to die for.

Polished wood, laser-cut metal, leather-clad steel… There are many, many luxurious options available to those with an effectively unlimited back balance. Brands such as Brown, Stockinger, Savoy, Döttling, and Buben and Zorweg stand out as market leaders. Although the price tag for such stylish security is high, it could end up looking like a drop in the ocean next to the cost of replacing or repairing watches stolen or damaged due to insufficient storage solutions. Along with insurance and keeping your watches in good running order through regular (although not excessive) servicing, finding them a home in which they can live happily and healthily for many years to come is not an endeavor at which to be sniffed.

The post How To Store Your Rolex Watches – Storage Tips For New & Experienced Collectors appeared first on Bob's Watches.

How To Store Your Rolex Watches – Storage Tips For New & Experienced Collectors

Baselworld 2019: New Rolex Day-Date 36 Watches

Baselworld 2019 is finally upon us, which means a whole batch of novelties to comb through. As is the case every year, most eyes are on Rolex’s new releases. While most of the attention is undoubtedly on their new sports watches, some of Rolex’s new dress watches are worth a discussion too. Here’s an overview of the new Rolex Day-Date 36 collection for 2019, equipped with a new caliber and new dial treatments.

New Generation Rolex Day-Date 36

When Rolex debuted the new Caliber 3255 with improved power reserve, precision, and resistance inside the Day-Date 40 in 2015, it was only a matter of time that the smaller Day-Date 36 models would get the same treatment. And four years later, here they are.

In terms of design, the new-generation Day-Date 36 watches retain the iconic Rolex President style from the precious metal construction to the pair of calendar windows on the dial, to the semi-circular links on the metal bracelets. For this release, Rolex offers the new Day-Date 36 watches in 18k yellow gold, 18k white gold, and 18k Everose gold (Rolex’s patented rose gold alloy) – some with fluted bezels and some with diamond-set bezels.

There are a few dial options to choose from and the ombré styles in green, brown, and blue with diamond hour markers are particularly striking. Although Rolex labels these concentric gradient dials as “novel,” those familiar with vintage Rolex watches will immediately recognize the similarity to vignette dials found on some older Day-Date and Datejust models.

Other dials offered thus far in the new Day-Date 36 collection include two hard stoned dials (another vintage style throwback), one in pink opal and the other in veined turquoise. Finally, there’s also a full diamond pavé dial, further embellished with 10 baguette-cut, rainbow-colored sapphire indexes.

Can We Call These Rolex Lady President Watches?

Whether with a 41, 40, or 36mm case, the Day-Date, aka the Rolex President, has always been officially classified as a men’s watch. On the other hand, a ladies’ Rolex President refers to Lady-Datejust models fitted with a President bracelet. Even right now, if you visit Rolex’s website and click on the “Men’s Watches” tab, these new Day-Date 36 watches appear. Conversely, if you go to the “Women’s Watches” section, they are nowhere to be found.

But seriously, look at these new Day-Date watches – some of them are undeniably a bit feminine in design. I’m not saying a guy can’t rock these bejeweled gold watches but it’s clear that Rolex is targeting a female audience with some of these new iterations. After all, it’s no secret that women have been wearing the Day-Date 36 for decades, so it makes sense to offer designs with a more feminine flair. But I don’t get why Rolex won’t put them in the ladies’ section on the website.

Rolex Day-Date 36 Specifications:

• Diameter: 36 mm


• Case Material: 18k yellow gold (ref. 128238 & ref. 128348RBR), 18k white gold (ref. 128239 & ref. 128349RBR), 18k Everose gold (ref. 128235 & ref. 128345RBR)


• Dial options: Green ombré with diamonds, brown ombré with diamonds, blue ombré with diamonds, pink opal with diamonds, veined turquoise with diamonds, diamond pavé with sapphires


• Strap/Bracelet: President bracelet with concealed folding Crownclasp


• Movement: Caliber 3255 self-winding


• Functions: Instantaneous day and date in apertures at 12 and 3 o’clock, secure rapid-setting


• Precision: −2/+2 sec/day, after casing


• Power Reserve: 70 hours

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Baselworld 2019: Rolex “Pepsi” GMT-Master II with Meteorite Dial

Last year at Baselworld, the star of the show was easily the stainless steel Rolex “Pepsi” GMT-Master II. With waitlists still several years in length at authorized retailers, and pre-owned examples trading for well-above their original purchase prices on the secondary market, it is undeniable that the Rolex “Pepsi” look is extremely desirable right now. This year for Baselworld 2019, Rolex has introduced a new white gold version of the “Pepsi” GMT-Master II; however this time it features a striking meteorite dial.

This marks the first time that a meteorite dial has made an appearance on the Rolex GMT-Master collection.

The Rolex “Pepsi” GMT-Master II ref. 126719 BLRO with Meteorite Dial

Although the reference 126719BLRO is technically a new watch, a white gold GMT-Master II with a red and blue “Pepsi” bezel already existed in the Rolex catalog. Additionally, it should also be noted that the use of meteorite dials is not a new novelty for Rolex, and examples can be found on various watches throughout their past, particularly within the Daytona, Day-Date, and Datejust collections. However this new ultra-premium dial variation marks the first time that a meteorite dial has been fitted to a Rolex GMT.

We have discussed Rolex’s meteorite dials before; however in case anyone is wondering, yes, they do actually feature slices of meteorite on their surfaces. The meteorite itself primarily consists of iron and nickel, and the unique pattern on its surface is the result of how the metals cooled when the meteorite fell to earth all those years ago. As its appearance is the product of a natural occurrence, the patten will vary from one meteorite dial to the next, and no two watches will look exactly the same.

The meteorite dial version of the white gold “Pepsi” GMT-Master II will be offered along side one with a blue dial.

With the latest updates to the GMT-Master collection, Rolex will no longer be manufacturing stainless steel GMT-Master II watches with Oyster bracelets. This means that if you want a white-metal Rolex GMT and also want an Oyster bracelet, you will have to get one in solid white gold – like the reference 126719 BLRO “Pepsi” GMT-Master II with meteorite dial, which is set to have an official price of $38,400.

Specifications:

• Reference Number: 126719BLRO


• Diameter: 40mm


• Case Material: White gold


• Dial Color: Meteorite


• Indexes: Applied white gold


• Lume: Chromalight on hands and hour markers


• Water Resistance: 100 meters


• Strap/Bracelet: White gold Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock


• Movement: Caliber 3285


• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, date


• Power Reserve: 70 hours  


• Winding: Automatic


• Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)


• Jewels: 31


• COSC Chronometer Certified  


• Additional Details: Regulated to +2/-2 seconds per day; utilizes the Chronergy escapement.

The post Baselworld 2019: Rolex “Pepsi” GMT-Master II with Meteorite Dial appeared first on Bob's Watches.

Baselworld 2019: Tudor Black Bay S&G Watches

There can never be enough Black Bay watches  – at least that’s what TUDOR seems to think. And we have to say, we’re okay with that. Because among their lineup of new watches for Baselworld 2019 are six new (and very different) iterations of this iconic sports watch, including the new two-tone Tudor Black Bay S&G, which comes in 3 different sizes, and with a surprise dial and bracelet.

A Growing Collection of Tudor Black Bay Watches 

It’s crazy to think of how quickly this watch has taken off. The Black Bay was only introduced in 2012 – the modern answer to the vintage-inspired tool watch. And today, it not only has a loyal fanbase, but a ton of variations to choose from within the collection. Now, TUDOR is just giving the people what they want: more Black Bay’s to love and collect, including new non-dive watch versions of the S&G, which feature the option of either a black or champagne dial.

If you already loved the elevated look of the Black Bay S&G presented last year, and are a fan of the non-dive watch Black Bay variations, you’re going to swoon over the new two-tone additions to the lineup. Not only has the stainless steel and yellow gold case been given an equally-fancy champagne colored dial (a black dial version is also available), but the gold stationary bezel sans-numbers has been given a satin finish for a clean-shaven look. While the Black Bay is inherently a tool watch at heart, the model presented at Baselworld really shows off a more refined side to the famous model.

Dressy Tool Watches

The new Black Bay S&G watches are the kind of timepieces that are going to look great for any occasion and withstand just about any situation, too. Obviously the two-tone look makes them easy to dress up and down, but the combination of a workhorse automatic Caliber 2824 inside and 150-meter water resistance also makes them true tool watches.

But the addition that really stands out to us is the new the five-ink stainless steel and yellow gold bracelet. It reminds you a bit of the stately Jubilee, right? Fitting, as TUDOR is a subsidiary of the crown prince, Rolex. It’s this final feature that really puts the S&G over the top – making it feel much more dressy than sporty. But, that’s okay with us; because while it looks elegant, it has Black Bay heritage backing it up and guaranteeing robust performance.

Tudor Black Bay S&G Watches in 3 Different Sizes 

To ensure that the new Black Bay S&G watches will work well on every wrist, TUDOR is offering them in 3 different sizes: a petite 32mm for women (ref. M79583-0002), the unisex 36mm (ref. M79503-0002), and the large 41mm (ref. M79543-0002). Additionally, all three sizes are available with the option of either a black or champagne colored dial. Be sure to keep checking the blog for more Baselworld 2019 updates throughout the week.

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Baselworld 2019: Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G

While this is not the first two-tone Black Bay, nor is it the first Black Bay Chrono, it is the first two-tone Black Bay Chrono to join Tudor’s catalog. Fresh from the halls of Baselworld 2019 is this brand new Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G, available with three band options.

The Tudor Black Bay Chronograph Gets Dressed Up

What we essentially have here are the bones of the steel Tudor Black Bay Chrono from 2017 dressed up in a two-tone color-way. The new model retains the 41mm steel case, a black dial with two counters and a date window, the Snowflake hands, a domed sapphire crystal, and the in-house Caliber MT5813 automatic chronograph movement of the steel edition.

Yet, style-wise, this Black Bay Chrono S&G (Steel & Gold, in case you were wondering) looks like a very different watch thanks to a generous amount of gold and champagne details. Sitting on top of the case is a fixed yellow gold bezel with a matte black anodized aluminum insert marked with a yellow gold tachymeter scale. Plus, a pair of yellow gold screw-down pushers flanks the yellow gold “capped” screw-down winding crown (decorated with a relief of the Tudor rose).

The black domed dial is also home to plenty of gilded accents including champagne registers, yellow gold surrounds on the luminous indexes, yellow gold hands (also coated with luminescence), and a gilt minute track around the periphery.

Like most of their other models, Tudor offers a few bracelet and strap options with the Black Bay Chrono S&G. You can take on the two-tone trend with gusto by pairing the watch with a riveted steel and yellow gold bracelet. Alternatively, there’s also a cool convertible brown leather strap with a removable bund, which is fitted with a folding clasp and safety catch. Lastly, there’s also the black jacquard fabric strap with a buckle.

Vintage Inspiration

Tudor is no stranger to vintage inspirations. In fact, the entire modern Black Bay collection draws its design cues from 1950’s Tudor dive watches and the Snowflake hands are taken directly from vintage Tudors made for the French Navy in the sixties and seventies.

However, those of you that are familiar with vintage Rolex Daytona watches will no doubt note that the new Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G bears more than a passing resemblance to the yellow gold Daytona ref. 6241 “John Player Special”-nicknamed after the iconic black and gold JPS Formula 1 livery.

All in all, the Black Bay Chrono S&G may not be the most talked about Tudor release from Baselworld 2019 (I’m looking at you Black Bay P01) but I do think it will easily become the fan favorite among the brand’s new models presented at the show.  

Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G Specifications:

• Reference: 79363N


• Diameter: 41 mm


• Case Material: Stainless steel, yellow gold


• Dial: Black, domed


• Strap/Bracelet: Riveted steel and yellow gold bracelet; brown leather with removable bund; black jacquard fabric strap


• Movement: Caliber MT5813 self-winding


• Functions: Central hour and minute hands; center chronograph seconds; chronograph 45-minute counter at 3 o’clock; small seconds at 9 o’clock; instantaneous date at 6 o’clock with rapid adjustment; stop seconds for precise time setting


• Precision: COSC-certified


• Power Reserve: 70 hours


• Water Resistance: 200m

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