Нужен идеальный подарок для любителей часов в вашей жизни? Эти часы, считающиеся одними из самых «горячих» часов 2019 года, вызвали большой резонанс в нашем магазине и в часовых сообществах в этом году.
Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 год, переиздание
Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 год, переиздание Винтажное очарование с неоспоримой современностью, переиздание Навитимер Реф. Часы 806 оснащены циферблатом, защищенным плексигласом с высокими куполами, вращающимися без звука с бусинами из 94 бусин и полностью черным циферблатом с тональными счетчиками. Ода прошлому, переиздание ограничено 1959 экземплярами. Что касается переизданий, то это однозначно впечатляет, так как это было четко разработано с тщательным вниманием к каждой детали, чтобы по-настоящему соответствовать дизайну оригинала.
Glashutte Оригинальные шестидесятые в огненно-оранжевом
Если вы знаете Glashutte Original, вы наверняка знаете модель Sixties, легендарный дизайн, который теперь доступен для ежегодного выпуска в огненно-оранжевом цвете . Начиная с золотисто-желтого цвета в центре, цвет циферблата меняется на оранжевый и красный по мере достижения параметра. Коричневый ремешок из кожи луизианского аллигатора завершает образ, в результате чего дизайн описывается как «ретро-шик». Хотя мы с нетерпением ожидаем того, что Glashutte Original будет готовить к 2020 году, красота этой модели будет непростой.
Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA211
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IWC Portugieser Chronograph
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Корпус из нержавеющей стали, посеребренный циферблат и синий ремешок из крокодиловой кожи делают Португальский хронограф IWC одной из самых желанных часов года. На 40,9 мм часы оглушают более тонкие запястья и делают заявление с синими руками и аппликациями, которые добавляют только правильное количество цвета.
Junghans Max Bill Chronoscope
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Omega Speedmaster Moonshine 50th Anniversary
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Apollo 11 50th Anniversary 50 лет назад Аполлон-11 приземлился на Луну. Omega с любовью отпраздновал эту золотую годовщину в 2019 году. Выпуск часов « Часовые лимитированные часы» Speedmaster Apollo 11 «Самогон 50-летия» , современный взгляд на модель, выпущенный и представленный космонавтам в 1969 году. В дополнение к штриховой истории, часы украшены бордовым керамическим безелем, сквозь заднюю крышку и представлены в памятниках кратерной коробке.
Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Силикон
Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Силикон Часы Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium - это идеальный подарок. Задняя крышка позволяет выставлять работы в течение 80 часов. Корпус и браслет из нержавеющей стали.
The 60th anniversary of Grand Seiko has proven to be a time of real inspiration for the brand, releasing a series of celebratory models that amount to real horological advances, dutiful nods to the past, and a taste at what the future might hold in terms of the brand's overall design aesthetic. We previously covered new releases that highlighted Grand Seiko's excellent quartz calibers, and just showed you a breathtaking advancement in the realm of their high frequency movements, involving the invention of an entirely new escapement. Now, we turn our attention to Spring Drive, perhaps the movement technology most closely associated with the brand. To debut their new 9RA5 caliber, representing the next generation of Spring Drive tech, Grand Seiko has introduced a professional diver that takes full advantage of the caliber's accuracy, reliability, and extended power reserve.
Grand Seiko SLGA001
Case Material: Titanium
Dial: “Grand Seiko Blue”
Dimensions: 46.9 x 16mm
Crystal: Sapphire
Water Resistance: 600 meters
Crown: Screw down
Movement: 9RA5
Strap/bracelet: Titanium bracelet
Price: $11,100
Reference Number: SLGA001
Expected Release: August
Spring Drive, as most longtime readers of this site will be aware, is a technology that combines the accuracy of quartz timekeeping with a traditional mechanical gear train. Spring Drive watches are powered by a mainspring, never require a battery, and are capable of astounding accuracy. All that, and they provide one of the most satisfying visual parlor tricks in all of horology, with the smooth, completely uninterrupted sweep of the seconds hand across the dial. Spring Drive watches have been favorites of enthusiasts since they debuted in 1999, and have gradually gained more mainstream acceptance in the watch community over the course of the last twenty years.
The new 9RA5 caliber is a significant advancement. It's thinner, more accurate than its predecessor, and has a longer power reserve. That extended power reserve is really the key advancement, at least as it pertains to the SLGA001, the professional diver in which the new caliber makes it debut. Grand Seiko is able to achieve a total power reserve of 5 days through the use of two mainspring barrels, one significantly larger than the other. The sizing of the barrels allows Grand Seiko not only to make the most of the limited space they have to work with in designing the movement, but enables the correct amount of torque to be delivered throughout the entire power reserve, ensuring even power consumption for all five days that the watch may run without being wound. In other words, you could conceivably wear the watch for a day, leave it for almost a week, and then pick it up to find that it's still well within spec for timing (which is +/- 10 seconds per month). Most mechanical watches become less accurate as their power reserve winds down, but Grand Seiko has taken steps to prevent that with this new caliber.
Dual barrels maximize torque through the entire 5 day power reserve.
Although the 9RA5 is thinner than the comparable 9R6 by nearly a full millimeter (thanks to a redesign and repositioning of the famed "Magic Lever," which allows the rotor to wind the watch when swinging in either direction), you'll forgive the SLGA001 for not taking full advantage of the new caliber's svetle dimensions. This is, after all, a professional diver rated to 600 meters of water resistance, suitable for saturation diving and virtually anything else under the sea. The titanium case comes in at 46.9mm in diameter, and is 16mm thick. With big, faceted lugs, a chunky bezel, and a super-sized handset, everything about the SLGA001 leads one to think that it will have wrist presence to spare. Grand Seiko gets a lot of attention for their dressier watches, that take full advantage of the intricate zaratsu polishing the brand is known for, but their sports watches and tool watches are sometimes forgotten about. That's unfortunate, because they're made to the same high standards as the rest of the line, and have a unique charm all their own. And given the unique technical properties of their advanced Spring Drive movements, it makes sense that the first time we see the 9RA5 that it's housed within a watch that could very well be used by professionals who will depend on it to get them through a dive alive. Spring Drive is all about reliability and precision, and those qualities are absolutely essential in a watch that's actually meant for diving. That said, this particular diver may be snatched up by collectors. It's a limited edition of 700, with a retail price of $11,100. Not exactly a grab-and-go tool, for most. Still, as an example of the high end of what Grand Seiko is capable of in the sports watch category, the SLGA001, with its updated Spring Drive movement, is undeniably impressive. Grand Seiko
High-beat movements, or calibers that run at 36,000 beats-per-hour/10 beats-per-second, are relatively uncommon in the industry today. The prevailing standard for quite some time now has been 28,800 beats-per-hour, or 8 beats-per-second, and it’s for good reason. These movements strike an excellent compromise as far as overall performance is concerned, with 28,800bph calibers being capable of excellent timekeeping without undue wear and tear on components.
Grand Seiko Ref. SBGJ219, one of the brand’s “Hi-Beat” GMTs.
Nevertheless, high-beat movements are exceptionally cool and come with two notable advantages. The first is aesthetic — higher-beat movements feature second hands with a smoother sweep. Advancing at 10 beats-per-second, a high-beat second hand glides elegantly across the dial, further masking the start-stop operation of the escapement which one can still make out in slower rate movements.
The second advantage is greater reliability. Ultimately, a balance operating at a faster beat rate will show greater resilience to external rotational forces, like sudden shocks, which in turn results in more reliable daily timekeeping.
But as I briefly mentioned into above, higher-beat movements are not without their downsides, chief among them a decreased power reserve and increased wear and tear on components. So when Grand Seiko approached their modern high-beat movements,, which they call “Hi-Beat,” these concerns were top of mind. Ultimately, by employing state of the art manufacturing processes to ingenious architecture, Grand Seiko’s engineers were able to devise modern Hi-Beat movements that are beautiful, hard wearing, and reliable.
Here you can really see the smoother sweep of a “Hi-Beat” movement.
Let us take a closer look at Grand Seiko’s Hi-Beat mechanicals, starting with the all-important mainspring.
Breaking down Spron 530.
Grand Seiko’s engineers needed a special type of mainspring with 1.5 times the torque of your standard mainspring. Grand Seiko works with a proprietary metallic alloy they call Spron, and for their purposes here they developed a special reinforced variant dubbed Spron 530. This mainspring has the right amount of torque needed to achieve the higher beat rate, and it also manages a higher-than-average power reserve of 55 hours, also notable because higher-beat movements naturally consume more energy.
“Ultimately, a balance operating at a faster beat rate will show greater resilience to external rotational forces, which in turn results in more reliable daily timekeeping.”
Speaking of energy consumption, this is where MEMS comes into play. Now, if you’re at all familiar with Grand Seiko, you may have heard of MEMS without truly understanding what it is and why it’s important. So without getting overly technical about it, MEMS stands for Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems, and it’s essentially a highly advanced manufacturing process Grand Seiko brought over from the production of semi conductors. Grand Seiko uses MEMS to fabricate certain precision metal parts for their 9S movements, and through this process they’re able to achieve structures that would otherwise be difficult to produce through traditional machine cutting. Additionally, parts produced via MEMS feature smoother surfaces, which minimizes friction, a major source of energy loss inside a movement.
Pallet fork.
Escape wheel.
Note the L-shaped tips on the escape wheel.
Two components Grand Seiko produces with MEMS are the escape wheel and the pallet fork. Through MEMS, Grand Seiko makes skeletonized escape wheels that are 5% lighter and pallet forks that are 25% lighter than their conventional counterparts. Furthermore, to address the higher degree of wear and tear sustained by hi-beat calibers, these parts are engineered for the purposes of better oil retention. If you look closely at Grand Seiko’s escape wheel, you’ll notice that in addition to the unique skeletonized structure, the cogs feature L-shaped tips designed to better retain lubricant for a longer period of time.
As far as the architecture is concerned, Grand Seiko’s watchmakers also had to redesign the gear train, but they took a different and significantly better approach than what would be considered more common. What generally happens with higher-beat movements is watchmakers will add more teeth to the gear train’s fourth wheel, or the wheel that drives the second hand, to achieve a higher gear ratio. While this is a solution, it is not a great one, because in order to add more teeth, you have to decrease their size, and doing so can cause slippage between gears and results in less stable transmission of energy. Also, smaller teeth are more fragile, and therefore more prone to breaking.So Grand Seiko’s engineers came up with an excellent solution — they added an extra wheel to the gear train, allowing them to achieve the appropriate gear ratio without sacrificing stability.
Note the extra wheel on the gear train.
Ultimately, what you get from Grand Seiko here is an incredibly accurate movement, with Grand Seiko rating their Hi-Beat calibers to +5/-3 seconds a day, a spec that is well beyond what the COSC specifies. Hi-Beat models marked “Special” have even greater tolerances of +4/-2 seconds a day, and VFA, or Very Fine Adjusted models, are calibrated to a whopping +3 -1 second a day.
To read other installments in this series, click here. To explore Grand Seiko’s 9S Hi-Beat, visit Grand Seiko.
Movements and watches featured are instructional samples. No Grand Seiko watches or movements were hurt in the making of this series.
The Grand Seiko ‘Blue Snowflake’ SBGA407 combines a prepossessing pale blue dial and an ultra-smooth Zaratsu polished case with a high precision Spring Drive movement. However, are these attributes enough to tempt an existing Snowflake owner to flex his credit card?
In 2010, Grand Seiko unveiled a remarkable watch with a white ‘Snowflake’ dial, the SBGA011. The dial epidermis was designed to replicate the appearance of freshly fallen snow, as seen through the windows of the firm’s Shinshu Watch Studio. This Seiko production facility is the home of Grand Seiko’s revered Spring Drive movements, something I will return to later.
While I frequently see exquisite watches and feel justified in proffering generous praise, I am unable to purchase everything I admire. However, the SBGA011 was different, surpassing mere admiration. After seeing the watch for the first time, I vowed that I would acquire a Snowflake as soon as the opportunity arose. Eventually, my aspiration was realised and the SBGA011 was mine.
Over the years, like many watch fanatics I have ‘flipped’ one watch to facilitate the purchase of another. However, no such indignity has befallen my SBGA011. It is frequently affixed to my wrist and we will forever be lifelong companions.
This model’s talents go beyond its prepossessing face. Its titanium case is incredibly light, exhibits a mirror-like appearance and feels as smooth as silk. The innovative Spring Drive movement is automatic, incredibly accurate and possesses a seconds hand with the most serene gait. The hands and indexes eschew luminescent treatment, however, this does not present a problem, as the merest suggestion of light causes the gleaming hands and indexes to readily reveal their presence.
I am not alone in recognising the brilliance of the SBGA011. Over the years, I have met several other Grand Seiko fanatics who have also succumbed to the Snowflake’s pure complexion, silky contours and outstanding accuracy.Despite being unveiled 10 years ago, the brilliance of the white Snowflake continues to shine brightly. While such words as ‘iconic’ and ‘legendary’ are overused in the watch industry, they seem most apt when discussing this watch.
Baselworld 2017
At Baselworld 2017, Shinji Hattori, the Chairman and CEO of Seiko Holdings Corporation announced that Grand Seiko would operate separately from other Seiko companies. This clearly had implications for retailing, the brand’s online presence and, most pertinently, the branding of dials.
My cherished SBGA011 features prominent ‘Seiko’ branding below noon and additional ‘GS’ and ‘Grand Seiko’ text above 6 o’clock. However, as part of the rebranding of Grand Seiko, the lone ‘Seiko’ name was removed and the ‘GS’ logo and name were repositioned and now sit in the upper hemisphere of the dial.
Kaizen, the Japanese business philosophy of continuous improvement, has enhanced the face of the Snowflake. While the dial of my SBGA011 has a very clean appearance, the newer dial has definitely delivered advancement.
A new white Snowflake SBGA211
As part of the re-branding, the Snowflake received a subtle makeover of the dial and a new reference number, the SBGA211. It retained the titanium case, inspired by the legendary 44GS model of 1967 with its curved sideline, part recessed crown and its multi-faceted hands and hour markers. Likewise, the Calibre 9R65 was carried over to the new model without any modification.
At the same time, Grand Seiko also released the SBGA259 which was virtually identical to the SBGA211 but supplanted silver-toned hands and indexes with gold-hued items. Personally, this model has never appealed to me in quite the same way, possibly because the golden tones diminished the pure, unsullied quality synonymous with the inaugural white Snowflake. Nevertheless, I accept that not every reader will share my opinion.
A new blue Snowflake SBGA407
Last year, the Japanese luxury marque unveiled a new Snowflake with a bewitching pale blue dial.
Recently, I had the opportunity to admire this new model at close quarters with a loupe in hand to see if it evoked the same horological lust that I felt when I first saw my beloved SBGA011.
The dial
A few years ago, I witnessed a few brands unveil watches with blue dials. I can remember at the time thinking dials sporting such bold hues would fall out of favour in due course. However, with the passage of time, I have been proved wrong.
Nevertheless, while blue dials are still very much en vogue, Grand Seiko has not followed the well-trodden path of others, selecting a shade I cannot remember seeing elsewhere. Its tone has a subtle, gentle character and brings to mind the fresh, crystal-like structure of snow.
The hours and minutes are pronounced with clear tone, using the brand’s tried and tested, facetted Dauphine hands. The angled edge of each hand exhibits an extraordinary brilliance. The hour markers are rectangular and feature facetted sides. Moreover, the leading edge of each index, positioned closest to the fulcrum of the dial, are also facetted. Interestingly, the opposite edge of each hour marker, positioned adjacent the rehaut, eschews facets, providing a crisp vertical plane. The marque’s obsession with the smallest of details is one of the many reasons why I am a devoted follower of ‘GS’.
A blued central sweep seconds hand circumnavigates the dial with graceful poise and its hue contrasts beautifully with the pale blue backdrop.
The date aperture at 3 o’clock is framed with a polished silver-toned border. The date pairs black numerals with a white disc. One of the endearing traits of Grand Seiko watches is that each numeral on the date disc has been optimally sized in order to augment readability.
A recessed power-reserve indicator is positioned adjacent 8 o’clock and features an understated, yet legible scale, showing the energy held within the spring barrel. The recessed area incorporates snailing, providing a tasteful contrast with the main dial epidermis.
The case
The Grand Seiko ‘Blue Snowflake’ SBGA407 is housed in a 40.2mm Zaratsu-polished stainless steel case. This outstandingly smooth case is expertly polished by an artisan working in the brand’s Shinshu Watch Studio.
The artisan places the case within a special holder which is then positioned against a rotating wheel. The wheel is liberally coated with a mildly abrasive liquid and the operator skilfully manipulates the case against the rotating wheel. The objective is not to alter the shape of the case, merely to polish it. This technique takes several years to master and an inordinate amount of patience to execute, but the resultant appearance provides justification for the effort expended. Placing a Zaratsu polished case against a piece of graph paper reveals a virtually distortion-free reflection.
Overall this watch is neither overtly retro or contemporary, however, the box shaped sapphire crystal does doff its hat to watches of yesteryear. The vertical plane of the crown is domed, heightening the overall sense of style. While some bulbous crowns can impinge on free movement of the wrist, no such problems will afflict the wearers of this model. Indeed, like my cherished SBGA011, the Grand Seiko ‘Blue Snowflake’ SBGA407 provides peerless wearer comfort.
The movement
The SBGA407 is fitted with an exhibition caseback which allows curious wearers to view the Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive movement.
This unique movement features a barrel containing a mainspring just like a regular mechanical watch. Power is transmitted through a series of gears, typical of a mechanical watch. However, a small rotor, connected to the gears, generates an electrical charge which in turn powers an electronic circuit board and quartz oscillator. Instead of a conventional balance wheel, the Caliber 9R65 features a unidirectional glide wheel and rather than employing an escapement, the rate of the glide wheel is controlled by an electromagnetic brake, governed by the aforementioned electronic circuit.
The Caliber 9R65 fuses two forms of watchmaking, mechanical and electronic, conferring an incredible degree of precision. Indeed, Grand Seiko state the accuracy is ± 1 second per day, surpassing most mechanical chronometers. One could describe Spring Drive as the horological equivalent of a hybrid car, synergistically combining two technologies.
The oscillating weight and bridges are decorated with a striped decoration, similar to Côtes de Genève. In addition, various bridge and rotor surfaces feature chamfered edges, adding a quotient of brilliance to the movement’s appearance.
The power reserve is sufficient to allow the watch to run autonomously for 72 hours.
For a more detailed explanation of the Spring Drive movement, see my review of the SBGA011.
Closing remarks
A few years ago, I joined other journalists from around the world and visited Seiko’s various operations in Japan. During the trip, the brand frequently talked about how Grand Seiko is always trying to create the ‘ideal’ watch. The company’s personnel defined ‘ideal’ as a timepiece that delivers ‘precision’, ‘durability’ and ‘beauty’. In my opinion, the Grand Seiko ‘Blue Snowflake’ SBGA407 fulfils this remit magnificently.
The texture of the dial and its eye-catching pale blue shade are extraordinarily beautiful. Furthermore, the proportions and execution of each dial component are delightful.
Appraising the Zaratsu-polished case, its refinement is manifest. The case diameter is modest and should suit most wearers. However, the case thickness of 12.8mm may prove a tad chunky for those wearers who prefer watches with a svelte waistline. Personally, when I affixed the watch to my wrist, everything felt most agreeable.
As stated earlier, Spring Drive was invented by Seiko and it is unique to the brand. Observing the central seconds hand in flight proves hypnotic. Its seamless advance delivers a welcome alternative to the staccato rhythm of a quartz movement or the busy shuffle of a mechanical movement equipped with a Swiss-lever escapement. Most pertinently, Spring Drive is incredibly precise yet, unlike a quartz watch, there is not a battery in sight.
Throughout this article, I have not hidden my admiration for Grand Seiko. Sadly, I know there will be some watch collectors who have not yet tasted the sweet flavour of Grand Seiko ownership. I hope this review causes them to revisit their opinion of the brand.
Finally, all roads lead me to the question of whether the threshold has been reached where I transition from journalist to customer. With two children at university, I won’t be buying the Grand Seiko ‘Blue Snowflake’ SBGA407 next week, however, I can say categorically that acquisition is not a matter of ‘if’, but rather ‘when’.
лимитированные часы» Speedmaster Apollo 11 «Самогон 50-летия» , современный взгляд на модель, выпущенный и представленный космонавтам в 1969 году. В дополнение к штриховой истории, часы украшены бордовым керамическим безелем, сквозь заднюю крышку и представлены в памятниках кратерной коробке. 
