Показаны сообщения с ярлыком Explainer. Показать все сообщения
Показаны сообщения с ярлыком Explainer. Показать все сообщения

суббота, 15 февраля 2020 г.

Everything You Need to Know Before You Try Eyebrow Lamination

Eyebrow lamination review
(Illustration: Elham Numan)

When it comes to my beauty routine, I’m admittedly not super focused on my brows. I’m lucky that they have a naturally good shape and thickness (thanks, Mom, for not letting me tweeze/wax them off in my youth!) and with my monthly wax and tint, all I really need day to day is some eyebrow gel (Benefit Gimme Brow is hands-down my fave) and I’m good to go.


But if there is one thing I *would* change about my brows, it would be the direction my hair grows, which is pretty much straight down (hence the need for gel to set them once I’ve brushed them up and outward).


My eyebrow hairs can grow pretty long and without a trim during my monthly wax and tint, they can get unruly. Even with my trusty Gimme Brow, they tend to fall back down by the end of the day, with those long hairs hovering below my brow line and thwarting that coveted feathered look.


So, when I heard about eyebrow lamination, and how it is essentially like semi-permanent soap brows, I was intrigued. Could this service be the secret to achieving my perfect no-maintenance brows?


Below, my no-holds-barred, no-BS review of my eyebrow lamination experience.


Read this next: No One Tells You *This* Will Happen When Your Microblading Fades


First of all, what is eyebrow lamination?


While some people describe this treatment as a perm for your brows (similar to a lash lift), I found this description made it seem like my brows would either be made curly (umm…no thanks) or would stay straight up and “lifted” over the span of several weeks when, in fact, that’s not the case at all.


Instead, I prefer Toronto makeup and brow artist Jordi Houad’s definition: a semi-permanent, non-invasive service that relaxes your brow hairs so they can stand in the direction you desire. Essentially, the service (which originated in Russia but has recently made its way to North America) temporarily straightens your brow hairs and makes them more pliable so they can be easily manipulated and shaped in virtually any direction, with the results including fuller-looking, fluffier brows.






As for the origin of the name? That’s unknown, though some believe the (temporary) look of shiny, slicked-up brows post-procedure is the inspo behind “lamination.”


Can anyone get eyebrow lamination?


According to Kira Thompson, owner of The Brow House in Toronto, brow lamination works on virtually all types of hair.


“This is honestly an amazing breakthrough for brows, because a lot of people have brows that are sparse, that grow in all different directions, brows that are not flat to the face, short hairs, or unruly, coarse brows. It really [solves for] all these types of brow [issues],” says Thompson, who adds those who are trying to grow back over-tweezed brows could particularly benefit from the service as it can act as a “comb over” for their arches.


“If you have a couple of gaps that are not growing as fast, [a brow lamination] lets you comb through your brows and lay hairs over areas that are more sparse than others,” she explains.


Houad, who performed my brow treatment, suggests avoiding brown lamination if you’ve had microdermabrasion or have used retinol, benzoyl, AHAs or BHAs within the past month.


“Certain medications, like acne medications, can affect the brows and skin. Sometimes, they can travel through the skin and sometimes they can thin out the skin,” she explains, adding that using these types of products may increase the risk of a reaction during the treatment.


She also tends to avoid doing brow laminations on pregnant women or women who are breastfeeding.


“A lot of pregnant women are either losing hair or getting weird hormonal hair growth, and because of that, the [brow lamination] may not work,” she says. “Also, there is the risk of the [brow lamination] products being absorbed into the bloodstream.”


JJ Cowan, owner of Wax and Lash JJ Cowan in Toronto, says individuals with skin allergies or a history of reactions to skin products should also be cautious when it comes to getting a brow lamination. She suggests informing the brow artist beforehand to determine if the service is a good fit.


Read this next: I Tried Ombre Powder Brows—Here’s What You Need to Know


How long does it last?


A brow lamination can last anywhere from three to eight weeks, depending on your brow hair’s natural growth cycle and your hair type. (Thompson says people with thinner hair will notice longer lasting results.) Both Thompson and Houad say the fade out is gradual, so you won’t be left with rogue wonky-looking brow hairs in between appointments.


“It’s a very gradual fade. You’ll see that they will go back to ‘normal,’ but it’s a slow process,” says Houad, adding that the longevity of the brow lamination also depends on adherence to aftercare recommendations (outlined below).


Though the time varies on how long a brow lamination will last, Cowan suggests waiting six weeks before having a touch-up so as to not over-process and damage the brow hair. If things are looking a little funky, try getting a shaping touch-up or a trim to keep things manageable for a bit longer.






Can you get other brow treatments with a lamination?


Brow lamination can be done in conjunction with a brow wax and tint, however, the order of each service differs depending on the brow artist.


Houad prefers doing the wax and tint following the brow lamination service as the brows will already look fuller and thicker after lamination, so it gives her more control over the final look.


“It’s also safer for the skin that way, and you have more hair to work with, so you’re taking out less at the end and you don’t need to clean them up as much,” she explains. “I always tell clients to have their brows grown out as much as possible when they come in so it gives me more to work with.”


Read this next: This Low-Maintenance Beauty Treatment Is a *Game-Changer* for Asian Lashes


Brow lamination can also be done if you’ve had microblading, though Cowan suggests waiting 12 weeks following the final microblading touch-up before getting laminated.


“Also, the client must have pre-existing brow hair in order to get brow lamination… often people with limited brow hair have microblading treatments, so this must be kept in mind when considering the service,” Cowan adds.


So what’s the process actually like?


The brow lamination process is very similar to that of a lash lift. Depending on the kit the brow artist uses, steps can vary, but here’s what went down when Houad did my brows:


After a quick consultation, she applied a hair softener to my brows to prep. A couple minutes later, she applied the perming solution, which adjusts the pH of the brow hairs and opens up the bonds, allowing them to “lift” (straighten) and become more pliable. After combing my brows upward, she put saran wrap across my brows to hold them in place and help the product stay more concentrated in the desired area. (It also helped to keep the fumes out of my eyes).


 


Eyebrow lamination review


Houad says the first solution can be kept on for 10–15 minutes, depending on the client’s brows shape and quality. It stayed on my brows for 14 minutes before Houad wiped it off and applied the setting lotion, which neutralizes the pH and restores the hair to keep it healthy.


“It’s like a keratin treatment for your brows,” says Houad.


Again, saran wrap was put back on, and the solution was left on for another 14 minutes. Again, timing can range from 10-15 minutes, depending on the brows.


Eyebrow lamination review


Following the lamination process, Houad gave me a quick wax and tint before applying a nourishing gel, which has the same consistency as Vaseline and gives the brows a glossy effect. Its purpose? To nourish and lock in moisture.


As for the result? See below for my before and after:


Eyebrow lamination review before and after


How do you maintain your brows post-lamination?


As with any perm, the most important thing to do post-lamination is to keep your brows away from water, steam and makeup for at least 24 hours.


“The simple reason is you want to make sure you set your brows for at least 24 hours,” says Thompson. “If you do hot yoga or [expose yourself to] any kind of steam, most likely [your brow hairs are] going to fall.”


After the 24-hour period, Houad suggests setting your brows again with a clean spoolie while they’re wet, and swears by using castor oil daily to help nourish and hydrate between treatments.


So, what did I think of my brow lamination?


I wanted to love this service. After seeing photos online, and hearing rave reviews about brow lamination, I was convinced this would be life-changing and that it would give me the brows of my dreams. And honestly, after Houad did my brows, they looked amazing. Perfectly full and brushed up and outwards for a clean, yet still undone look. Admittedly, there were some times I looked in the mirror and found them a little bit extreme, but after I inspected more closely, I really did love them.


But for me, the daily styling of my brows was the hardest part. I couldn’t seem to figure out how to get them to look how Houad did—when I brushed them up, they looked a little too extreme, but when I tried to brush them over, it just didn’t work. Over the past few weeks, I’ve experimented with Gimme Brow, brow pencil and clear brow gel, and still can’t seem to figure out which one works best with my new brow texture. Some days I manage to make my brows look amazing, but it’s never consistent.


I’m not giving up entirely, though. Houad has since given me some tips (brush up, then just along the tips of the brow hairs to avoid a full comb over) and suggested that I get a grooming touch up since my hairs have already grown kind of long. If I manage to figure out a foolproof technique to styling them, I’ll consider myself a brow lamination convert but, for now, I’ll still on the fence.


The post Everything You Need to Know Before You Try Eyebrow Lamination appeared first on Flare.

пятница, 14 февраля 2020 г.

Everything You Need to Know Before You Try Eyebrow Lamination

Eyebrow lamination review
(Illustration: Elham Numan)

When it comes to my beauty routine, I’m admittedly not super focused on my brows. I’m lucky that they have a naturally good shape and thickness (thanks, Mom, for not letting me tweeze/wax them off in my youth!) and with my monthly wax and tint, all I really need day to day is some eyebrow gel (Benefit Gimme Brow is hands-down my fave) and I’m good to go.

But if there is one thing I *would* change about my brows, it would be the direction my hair grows, which is pretty much straight down (hence the need for gel to set them once I’ve brushed them up and outward).

My eyebrow hairs can grow pretty long and without a trim during my monthly wax and tint, they can get unruly. Even with my trusty Gimme Brow, they tend to fall back down by the end of the day, with those long hairs hovering below my brow line and thwarting that coveted feathered look.

So, when I heard about eyebrow lamination, and how it is essentially like semi-permanent soap brows, I was intrigued. Could this service be the secret to achieving my perfect no-maintenance brows?

Below, my no-holds-barred, no-BS review of my eyebrow lamination experience.

Read this next: No One Tells You *This* Will Happen When Your Microblading Fades

First of all, what is eyebrow lamination?

While some people describe this treatment as a perm for your brows (similar to a lash lift), I found this description made it seem like my brows would either be made curly (umm…no thanks) or would stay straight up and “lifted” over the span of several weeks when, in fact, that’s not the case at all.

Instead, I prefer Toronto makeup and brow artist Jordi Houad’s definition: a semi-permanent, non-invasive service that relaxes your brow hairs so they can stand in the direction you desire. Essentially, the service (which originated in Russia but has recently made its way to North America) temporarily straightens your brow hairs and makes them more pliable so they can be easily manipulated and shaped in virtually any direction, with the results including fuller-looking, fluffier brows.

As for the origin of the name? That’s unknown, though some believe the (temporary) look of shiny, slicked-up brows post-procedure is the inspo behind “lamination.”

Can anyone get eyebrow lamination?

According to Kira Thompson, owner of The Brow House in Toronto, brow lamination works on virtually all types of hair.

“This is honestly an amazing breakthrough for brows, because a lot of people have brows that are sparse, that grow in all different directions, brows that are not flat to the face, short hairs, or unruly, coarse brows. It really [solves for] all these types of brow [issues],” says Thompson, who adds those who are trying to grow back over-tweezed brows could particularly benefit from the service as it can act as a “comb over” for their arches.

“If you have a couple of gaps that are not growing as fast, [a brow lamination] lets you comb through your brows and lay hairs over areas that are more sparse than others,” she explains.

Houad, who performed my brow treatment, suggests avoiding brown lamination if you’ve had microdermabrasion or have used retinol, benzoyl, AHAs or BHAs within the past month.

“Certain medications, like acne medications, can affect the brows and skin. Sometimes, they can travel through the skin and sometimes they can thin out the skin,” she explains, adding that using these types of products may increase the risk of a reaction during the treatment.

She also tends to avoid doing brow laminations on pregnant women or women who are breastfeeding.

“A lot of pregnant women are either losing hair or getting weird hormonal hair growth, and because of that, the [brow lamination] may not work,” she says. “Also, there is the risk of the [brow lamination] products being absorbed into the bloodstream.”

JJ Cowan, owner of Wax and Lash JJ Cowan in Toronto, says individuals with skin allergies or a history of reactions to skin products should also be cautious when it comes to getting a brow lamination. She suggests informing the brow artist beforehand to determine if the service is a good fit.

Read this next: I Tried Ombre Powder Brows—Here’s What You Need to Know

How long does it last?

A brow lamination can last anywhere from three to eight weeks, depending on your brow hair’s natural growth cycle and your hair type. (Thompson says people with thinner hair will notice longer lasting results.) Both Thompson and Houad say the fade out is gradual, so you won’t be left with rogue wonky-looking brow hairs in between appointments.

“It’s a very gradual fade. You’ll see that they will go back to ‘normal,’ but it’s a slow process,” says Houad, adding that the longevity of the brow lamination also depends on adherence to aftercare recommendations (outlined below).

Though the time varies on how long a brow lamination will last, Cowan suggests waiting six weeks before having a touch-up so as to not over-process and damage the brow hair. If things are looking a little funky, try getting a shaping touch-up or a trim to keep things manageable for a bit longer.

Can you get other brow treatments with a lamination?

Brow lamination can be done in conjunction with a brow wax and tint, however, the order of each service differs depending on the brow artist.

Houad prefers doing the wax and tint following the brow lamination service as the brows will already look fuller and thicker after lamination, so it gives her more control over the final look.

“It’s also safer for the skin that way, and you have more hair to work with, so you’re taking out less at the end and you don’t need to clean them up as much,” she explains. “I always tell clients to have their brows grown out as much as possible when they come in so it gives me more to work with.”

Read this next: This Low-Maintenance Beauty Treatment Is a *Game-Changer* for Asian Lashes

Brow lamination can also be done if you’ve had microblading, though Cowan suggests waiting 12 weeks following the final microblading touch-up before getting laminated.

“Also, the client must have pre-existing brow hair in order to get brow lamination… often people with limited brow hair have microblading treatments, so this must be kept in mind when considering the service,” Cowan adds.

So what’s the process actually like?

The brow lamination process is very similar to that of a lash lift. Depending on the kit the brow artist uses, steps can vary, but here’s what went down when Houad did my brows:

After a quick consultation, she applied a hair softener to my brows to prep. A couple minutes later, she applied the perming solution, which adjusts the pH of the brow hairs and opens up the bonds, allowing them to “lift” (straighten) and become more pliable. After combing my brows upward, she put saran wrap across my brows to hold them in place and help the product stay more concentrated in the desired area. (It also helped to keep the fumes out of my eyes).

 

Eyebrow lamination review

Houad says the first solution can be kept on for 10–15 minutes, depending on the client’s brows shape and quality. It stayed on my brows for 14 minutes before Houad wiped it off and applied the setting lotion, which neutralizes the pH and restores the hair to keep it healthy.

“It’s like a keratin treatment for your brows,” says Houad.

Again, saran wrap was put back on, and the solution was left on for another 14 minutes. Again, timing can range from 10-15 minutes, depending on the brows.

Eyebrow lamination review

Following the lamination process, Houad gave me a quick wax and tint before applying a nourishing gel, which has the same consistency as Vaseline and gives the brows a glossy effect. Its purpose? To nourish and lock in moisture.

As for the result? See below for my before and after:

Eyebrow lamination review before and after

How do you maintain your brows post-lamination?

As with any perm, the most important thing to do post-lamination is to keep your brows away from water, steam and makeup for at least 24 hours.

“The simple reason is you want to make sure you set your brows for at least 24 hours,” says Thompson. “If you do hot yoga or [expose yourself to] any kind of steam, most likely [your brow hairs are] going to fall.”

After the 24-hour period, Houad suggests setting your brows again with a clean spoolie while they’re wet, and swears by using castor oil daily to help nourish and hydrate between treatments.

So, what did I think of my brow lamination?

I wanted to love this service. After seeing photos online, and hearing rave reviews about brow lamination, I was convinced this would be life-changing and that it would give me the brows of my dreams. And honestly, after Houad did my brows, they looked amazing. Perfectly full and brushed up and outwards for a clean, yet still undone look. Admittedly, there were some times I looked in the mirror and found them a little bit extreme, but after I inspected more closely, I really did love them.

But for me, the daily styling of my brows was the hardest part. I couldn’t seem to figure out how to get them to look how Houad did—when I brushed them up, they looked a little too extreme, but when I tried to brush them over, it just didn’t work. Over the past few weeks, I’ve experimented with Gimme Brow, brow pencil and clear brow gel, and still can’t seem to figure out which one works best with my new brow texture. Some days I manage to make my brows look amazing, but it’s never consistent.

I’m not giving up entirely, though. Houad has since given me some tips (brush up, then just along the tips of the brow hairs to avoid a full comb over) and suggested that I get a grooming touch up since my hairs have already grown kind of long. If I manage to figure out a foolproof technique to styling them, I’ll consider myself a brow lamination convert but, for now, I’ll still on the fence.

The post Everything You Need to Know Before You Try Eyebrow Lamination appeared first on Flare.

Lara Jean’s Outfits Are the Best Part of the TATBILB Sequel

lara jean outfits
(Photo: Netflix / Bettina Strauss)

“Hyperventilating” is one word you could use to describe our reaction when To All the Boys I’ve Loved Before: P.S. I Still Love You came out. And just when we thought it couldn’t get any better than Lana Condor hanging with a bunch of the cutest guys ever (seriously Noah Centineo, you’re hurting us), turns out we were wrong. Yup, there’s part of the movie we loved even more than Jordan Fisher’s nose crinkle: It’s the Lara Jean outfits.


Explain how a high school student can be that level of put together? She looks lovelier on a daily basis than most of will at our own weddings. But let’s not be too hard on ourselves, the girl had some help. Canadian retailer Aritzia provided tons of clothing to the film (snaps for Canada), and we’re willing to bet we’d all look just as fab if we had someone pulling looks for us. But wait, you do! Spoiler: It’s us.


Below, some of our favourite Lara Jean outfits from To All the Boys I’ve Loved Before: P.S. I Still Love You—and how to copy them, of course.


The post Lara Jean’s Outfits Are the Best Part of the TATBILB Sequel appeared first on Flare.

четверг, 13 февраля 2020 г.

Lara Jean’s Outfits Are the Best Part of the TATBILB Sequel

lara jean outfits
(Photo: Netflix / Bettina Strauss)

“Hyperventilating” is one word you could use to describe our reaction when To All the Boys I’ve Loved Before: P.S. I Still Love You came out. And just when we thought it couldn’t get any better than Lana Condor hanging with a bunch of the cutest guys ever (seriously Noah Centineo, you’re hurting us), turns out we were wrong. Yup, there’s part of the movie we loved even more than Jordan Fisher’s nose crinkle: It’s the Lara Jean outfits.

Explain how a high school student can be that level of put together? She looks lovelier on a daily basis than most of will at our own weddings. But let’s not be too hard on ourselves, the girl had some help. Canadian retailer Aritzia provided tons of clothing to the film (snaps for Canada), and we’re willing to bet we’d all look just as fab if we had someone pulling looks for us. But wait, you do! Spoiler: It’s us.

Below, some of our favourite Lara Jean outfits from To All the Boys I’ve Loved Before: P.S. I Still Love You—and how to copy them, of course.

The post Lara Jean’s Outfits Are the Best Part of the TATBILB Sequel appeared first on Flare.

среда, 12 февраля 2020 г.

Real Talk: Can Your Astrological Sign *Actually* Help You Make a Match?

horoscope compatibilty
(Image: Maegan Fidelino)

Falling in love can be exciting and wonderful. But it can also be confusing and, sometimes, a complete disaster, which is why so many people look to astrology for help in determining the odds of being a match with someone. But understanding zodiac signs isn’t only useful when it comes to romance—you have relationships with all kinds of people, including colleagues, friends and roommates, and the same wisdom applies.


So if two signs are deemed compatible, then we’re guaranteed harmony, right?


If only relationships could be as easy as following the stars. The truth is a zodiac sign does not determine a person’s entire character, and astrology is not a guaranteed path to perfect pairings. But it can help us understand ourselves—and the people in our lives—a little better.


How to use astrology in your relationships 


Astrological signs are grouped according to four elements: fire, earth, air, water. Each element dictates typical preferences, needs and reactions for those signs, and understanding these energies—and how they connect with yours—can inform how you approach your relationships and help you appreciate where others are coming from.


Fire signs: Aries, Leo and Sagittarius 


Fire signs need to feel alive. They don’t like to waste time, and they get easily bored with tasks and plans that take away from the things they are most passionate about. They don’t like to do anything halfway, and giving them room to express themselves and take their interests to new levels is key to getting along with them. Because they’re often busy focusing on their own goals, fire signs have little time for drama. Neediness, mixed messages and dishonesty are some of their biggest turnoffs.


Read this next: Your February 2020 Horoscopes Are Here


In love: Fire signs thrive on freedom and independence. If you’re dating one, respect their need for space—giving them room to breathe and make time for their many passion projects will go a long way in your relationship.


As friends: With broad interests and deep loyalty, fire signs can end up with wide circles of friends they collect over the years. Just don’t expect to see them all the time—they stay busy, and clinginess is not their style.


At work: Even in team settings, fire signs need a lot of leeway to make their own decisions. As colleagues, they can be your fiercest competitors if they see you as a threat to their success.


Best paired with: Air signs, whose open-mindedness and curiosity can fuel a fire sign’s inspiration.


Best signs to learn from: Earth and water signs. Earth energy can teach fire to slow down and think things through. Water can help fire signs express their vulnerability and build trust through intimacy.


Earth signs: Taurus, Virgo and Capricorn 


Earth signs thrive on structure, routine and stability. They have comfort zones and are OK with that. They don’t want to be rushed, if they can help it, and when they commit, it’s for the long haul—which means change isn’t always easy for them. Sometimes they avoid it to the point where they end up stuck in a rut. They will deliberate over decisions and like to be methodical in how they move forward, but once they’re ready to take the leap they will follow through.


In love: Earth signs want you to respect their routines, so be willing to work your life into theirs. Big romantic gestures are always appreciated, but simply cooking them a meal at home can go a long way too.


As friends: Dependable and grounded, these are the friends you can count on when everyone else flakes out.


At work: Earth signs do best in structured environments where they know what to expect day in and day out. They are the colleagues who are least likely to rock the boat.


Best paired with: Water signs, who will meet earth’s need for security and dependability but can also teach them to go with the flow sometimes.


Best sign to learn from: Fire, who can push earth out of a comfort zone—but only if earth is willing to let go of old, familiar territory and try something new.


Read this next: I Lived My Life by a Personalized Astrology App for a Week


Air signs: Gemini, Libra and Aquarius 


Air signs are curious and ideas-driven. As some of the more social signs of the zodiac, they make great conversationalists and rarely run out of things to say. They are quick thinkers and have no shortage of questions, opinions and answers. If you love to have deep, drawn-out conversations that go off in all directions, air signs are your people. But they can also be conflict-averse; working on understanding other people’s feelings can be a lifelong process for them.


In love: Air signs are turned on by ideas. This is a connection that will grow intellectually first, so don’t expect to get into deeply emotional territory right away.


As friends: These are the friends you can count on when you need to see something from a new angle or when you need someone to give an outside opinion you can trust.


At work: These are the communicators of the zodiac—they’re who you want helping with presentations, sales meetings and brainstorming sessions. They just have to be careful not to get caught up in workplace politics.


Best paired with: Fire, who will be able to appreciate air’s many interests.


Best sign to learn from: Water. Air will have to work hard to learn how to connect to water’s emotional depths.


 


Water signs: Cancer, Scorpio and Pisces 


Water signs crave emotional security. These sensitive peeps are easily hurt and are often cautious about who they get close to. Deeply compassionate, water signs are often perceptive about other people’s emotions. Because they can tune into others so easily, their energies often get drained by people around them. True to water’s nature, these signs can be wishy-washy and their moods can change quickly. They can take things too personally sometimes, even when an action wasn’t intended to hurt them at all.


In love: When you’re dating a water sign, be prepared to let them know you’re there for them. They want to know that you’re all in before they risk their heart.


As friends: These are your one-on-one pals, the friends you want to call on when you’re not in the mood for a group hang or a crowded place.


At work: Water signs communicate from the heart. They will tell you how they feel about something before saying what they think about it. Having room for open dialogue and being supported is key to a water sign feeling secure in the workplace.


Best paired with: Earth, which can provide the safety and dependability water craves.


Best sign to learn from: Fire or air. Both of these energies like to build momentum and can help water get out of its comfort zone—as long as they take the time to listen to and validate water’s feelings.


Read this next: How to Make a Decision Like a Grown-Up


Remember: Relationships take work, and the best ones help you grow


Just because you’re an astrological match doesn’t mean the stars are going to do the work for you—you need to put in some effort too. Even the best-suited couples and friends have their ups and downs. Patience, respect and understanding are all important in any kind of relationship.


And don’t be too quick to dismiss someone based on their sign—you might be stunting your personal growth. It’s not uncommon for people who have incompatible signs to fall madly in love or blossom into life-long friends, and the differences that arise in a relationship can be motivating factors for two people to help each other change and grow.


The post Real Talk: Can Your Astrological Sign *Actually* Help You Make a Match? appeared first on Flare.

Real Talk: Can Your Astrological Sign *Actually* Help You Make a Match?

horoscope compatibilty
(Image: Maegan Fidelino)

Falling in love can be exciting and wonderful. But it can also be confusing and, sometimes, a complete disaster, which is why so many people look to astrology for help in determining the odds of being a match with someone. But understanding zodiac signs isn’t only useful when it comes to romance—you have relationships with all kinds of people, including colleagues, friends and roommates, and the same wisdom applies.

So if two signs are deemed compatible, then we’re guaranteed harmony, right?

If only relationships could be as easy as following the stars. The truth is a zodiac sign does not determine a person’s entire character, and astrology is not a guaranteed path to perfect pairings. But it can help us understand ourselves—and the people in our lives—a little better.

How to use astrology in your relationships 

Astrological signs are grouped according to four elements: fire, earth, air, water. Each element dictates typical preferences, needs and reactions for those signs, and understanding these energies—and how they connect with yours—can inform how you approach your relationships and help you appreciate where others are coming from.

Fire signs: Aries, Leo and Sagittarius 

Fire signs need to feel alive. They don’t like to waste time, and they get easily bored with tasks and plans that take away from the things they are most passionate about. They don’t like to do anything halfway, and giving them room to express themselves and take their interests to new levels is key to getting along with them. Because they’re often busy focusing on their own goals, fire signs have little time for drama. Neediness, mixed messages and dishonesty are some of their biggest turnoffs.

Read this next: Your February 2020 Horoscopes Are Here

In love: Fire signs thrive on freedom and independence. If you’re dating one, respect their need for space—giving them room to breathe and make time for their many passion projects will go a long way in your relationship.

As friends: With broad interests and deep loyalty, fire signs can end up with wide circles of friends they collect over the years. Just don’t expect to see them all the time—they stay busy, and clinginess is not their style.

At work: Even in team settings, fire signs need a lot of leeway to make their own decisions. As colleagues, they can be your fiercest competitors if they see you as a threat to their success.

Best paired with: Air signs, whose open-mindedness and curiosity can fuel a fire sign’s inspiration.

Best signs to learn from: Earth and water signs. Earth energy can teach fire to slow down and think things through. Water can help fire signs express their vulnerability and build trust through intimacy.

Earth signs: Taurus, Virgo and Capricorn 

Earth signs thrive on structure, routine and stability. They have comfort zones and are OK with that. They don’t want to be rushed, if they can help it, and when they commit, it’s for the long haul—which means change isn’t always easy for them. Sometimes they avoid it to the point where they end up stuck in a rut. They will deliberate over decisions and like to be methodical in how they move forward, but once they’re ready to take the leap they will follow through.

In love: Earth signs want you to respect their routines, so be willing to work your life into theirs. Big romantic gestures are always appreciated, but simply cooking them a meal at home can go a long way too.

As friends: Dependable and grounded, these are the friends you can count on when everyone else flakes out.

At work: Earth signs do best in structured environments where they know what to expect day in and day out. They are the colleagues who are least likely to rock the boat.

Best paired with: Water signs, who will meet earth’s need for security and dependability but can also teach them to go with the flow sometimes.

Best sign to learn from: Fire, who can push earth out of a comfort zone—but only if earth is willing to let go of old, familiar territory and try something new.

Read this next: I Lived My Life by a Personalized Astrology App for a Week

Air signs: Gemini, Libra and Aquarius 

Air signs are curious and ideas-driven. As some of the more social signs of the zodiac, they make great conversationalists and rarely run out of things to say. They are quick thinkers and have no shortage of questions, opinions and answers. If you love to have deep, drawn-out conversations that go off in all directions, air signs are your people. But they can also be conflict-averse; working on understanding other people’s feelings can be a lifelong process for them.

In love: Air signs are turned on by ideas. This is a connection that will grow intellectually first, so don’t expect to get into deeply emotional territory right away.

As friends: These are the friends you can count on when you need to see something from a new angle or when you need someone to give an outside opinion you can trust.

At work: These are the communicators of the zodiac—they’re who you want helping with presentations, sales meetings and brainstorming sessions. They just have to be careful not to get caught up in workplace politics.

Best paired with: Fire, who will be able to appreciate air’s many interests.

Best sign to learn from: Water. Air will have to work hard to learn how to connect to water’s emotional depths.

 

Water signs: Cancer, Scorpio and Pisces 

Water signs crave emotional security. These sensitive peeps are easily hurt and are often cautious about who they get close to. Deeply compassionate, water signs are often perceptive about other people’s emotions. Because they can tune into others so easily, their energies often get drained by people around them. True to water’s nature, these signs can be wishy-washy and their moods can change quickly. They can take things too personally sometimes, even when an action wasn’t intended to hurt them at all.

In love: When you’re dating a water sign, be prepared to let them know you’re there for them. They want to know that you’re all in before they risk their heart.

As friends: These are your one-on-one pals, the friends you want to call on when you’re not in the mood for a group hang or a crowded place.

At work: Water signs communicate from the heart. They will tell you how they feel about something before saying what they think about it. Having room for open dialogue and being supported is key to a water sign feeling secure in the workplace.

Best paired with: Earth, which can provide the safety and dependability water craves.

Best sign to learn from: Fire or air. Both of these energies like to build momentum and can help water get out of its comfort zone—as long as they take the time to listen to and validate water’s feelings.

Read this next: How to Make a Decision Like a Grown-Up

Remember: Relationships take work, and the best ones help you grow

Just because you’re an astrological match doesn’t mean the stars are going to do the work for you—you need to put in some effort too. Even the best-suited couples and friends have their ups and downs. Patience, respect and understanding are all important in any kind of relationship.

And don’t be too quick to dismiss someone based on their sign—you might be stunting your personal growth. It’s not uncommon for people who have incompatible signs to fall madly in love or blossom into life-long friends, and the differences that arise in a relationship can be motivating factors for two people to help each other change and grow.

The post Real Talk: Can Your Astrological Sign *Actually* Help You Make a Match? appeared first on Flare.

пятница, 7 февраля 2020 г.

Why Are Awards Shows Still So Damn White and Male?

Awards show diversity problem illutrated by white Oscars statues
(Illustration: Elham Numan; Background: Getty)

It feels like we’re asking the same question every year. Nominations are announced and all the major categories are dominated by white actors and male directors, despite widespread calls for change.

It’s gotten so glaringly bad, that even celebrities who typically never take a stand on these issues are speaking out.

“We find ourselves talking again about the need to do more to ensure diversity in the sector and the awards process,” Prince William, BAFTA president, said at this year’s ceremony. “That simply cannot be right in this day and age.”

He’s not the only one. This award season has seen celebrities from Issa Rae and Joaquin Phoenix use the stage as a way to call out the persistent lack of inclusion in Hollywood’s biggest nights.

Yet, when #OscarsSoWhite creator April Reign saw the 2020 Academy Awards nominations—with only one person of colour nominated for acting and no nods for women directors—she says she was “disappointed but not surprised.”

Despite commercial success and critical acclaim, films like The Farewell, Queen and Slim and Hustlers were largely shut out of awards season all together, while white male stories, such as 1917, Joker, The Irishman and Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, dominated. The BAFTAs’ roster of acting nominees was comprised of 18 white actors, and the nominees in the directing category were all male. The Farewell’s Awkwafina made history at the Golden Globes as the first woman of Asian descent to take home an award for best actor in a comedy or musical, but overall most of the winners selected by the Hollywood Foreign Press were white. Similarly, Parasite’s groundbreaking win at the SAG Awards, becoming the first foreign-language film to take home the night’s top prize, was described as a “notable exception.”

“The fact that we’re still talking about firsts means there’s still a lot of work that needs to be done,” says Reign.

Read this next: Everything to Know About the 2020 Oscars

To be fair, steps have been taken advocacy groups, filmmakers and festivals in recent years to improve inclusivity, but looking at the 2020 awards season it’s hard not to wonder if they’ve had any effect at all. Whatever happened to all that buzz around inclusion riders? What are film festivals doing to open the doors to more filmmakers? And WTF is up with awards-show voter demographics?

We asked some experts what’s going on behind the scenes, and it turns out that, even though awards season is still so white, Hollywood is making *some* legit strides. Here’s how.

Inclusion riders

What are they?

Two years ago, Frances McDormand won the Oscar for Best Actress and used her time at the mic to introduce viewers to two words: inclusion rider.

Created by Stacy L. Smith, who’s director of the Annenberg Inclusion Initiative, Pearl Street Films’ Fanshen Cox DiGiovanni and civil rights and employment attorney Kalpana Kotagal, an inclusion rider is a legal tool that stipulates that films must include candidates from under-represented communities in the auditioning and the interviewing process for cast and crew. It can also be adapted for use to enhance inclusion in other industries.

Where are we now? 

Following McDormand’s speech, Michael B. Jordan pledged to adopt the inclusion rider for all projects out of his production company, Outlier Society. As a result, Just Mercy, which recently hit theatres, became the first production to implement an inclusion rider. With MBJ’s encouragement, Warner Brothers, the studio behind Just Mercy, followed suit, becoming the first major studio to so. The independent film Hala, which was recently bought by Apple TV+, also implemented the policy, and as a result, Deadline reported, the production hired women for numerous leadership positions and for 75% of the critical below-the-line roles.

However, Kotagal says the inclusion rider’s impact goes beyond what we are seeing in the headlines. “It’s important to keep in mind that the inclusion rider is a contractual tool, and by virtue of that, it may not be the kind of thing that you see everywhere all the time,” says Kotagal. “That doesn’t change the fact that it is being implemented.” Since 2018, the lawyer says, she has worked on several inclusion riders for films, though she couldn’t give specific numbers due to confidentiality.

Simultaneouly, creators from under-represented communities are making themselves more visible, combatting that lame and well-worn excuse that project executives want to be diverse but simply can’t find the candidates. Dozens of databases—such as the Topple List, a living Google spreadsheet of professionals from marginalized communities created in 2019 by Transparent’s Jill Soloway; the T List, which highlights trans individuals in the entertainment industry; and Free the Work, a database of under-represented creators—exist to help make it easy for execs to find talent from under-represented communities.

Kotagal says the strength of the inclusion rider is that it helped people see that productions do not have to choose between quality and diversity—a mentality that, as Stephen King’s Oscar tweet proved, still persists. (The famed author, who is member of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences and therefore able to vote for certain categories, revised his statement in a Washington Post essay acknowledging that the awards are “rigged in favour of the white folks” and that his tweet only applies in an ideal world).

Read this next: Where to Stream All the Oscar-Nominated Movies Before the Awards

Kotagal notes, however, that inclusion riders alone won’t revolutionize the industry. “Hollywood is a multifaceted problem in need of multifaceted solutions, and the inclusion rider can and should play a role, but it’s not the silver bullet,” she says.

The 4% Challenge

What is it?

“Because only 4% of the top 100 studio films over the last decade have been directed by women, Time’s Up is initiating a challenge, the 4% challenge, and I intend to take it: I commit to working with a female director in the next 18 months,” said Tessa Thompson at the Sundance Film Festival last year. A-list celebs like Brie Larson, Kerry Washington, Amber Tamblyn, Reese Witherspoon, Olivia Wilde, Jurnee Smollett and Armie Hammer—who noted that at the time that he had only ever worked with one woman director in his 14 years in the industry—all agreed to do the same.

Universal Pictures and MGM were the first studios to accept this challenge. Disney’s chairman and CEO Robert Iger stated last year that 40% of their upcoming movies, including Mulan and Frozen II, were directed by women, and that the studio was striving for even more.

Where are we now?

Despite the multiple awards shows that only acknowledged males in their directing categories, 2019 *actually* saw some major gains for female directors in other ways. According to Annenberg Inclusion Initiative’s data collected on 1,300 of the top films from the past 13 years, 2019 had the highest percentage (10.6%) of women directors. It’s a move in the right direction, but, for context, the ratio of male to female directors during that whole time period was 20 to 1 and the ratio of white men to under-represented women directors was 92 to 1. In the top 500 films of 2019, the percentage of women working as directors, writers, producers, executive producers, editors and cinematographers has held at 23% for the past two years, which is a slight increase from previous years, according to the Center for the Study of Women in Television & Film.

50/50×2020

What is it?

Festivals are where a lot of the awards season momentum and buzz begin—but these industry events add another layer of inclusion issues.

In 2018, 82 women climbed the Palais stairs at the Cannes Film Festival—representing the dismal number of women-made films that had been selected in the festival’s 71-year history—and demanded change. Two days later, Cannes committed to the 5050×2020 pledge, which meant that the festival would increase gender representation as well as transparency surrounding the gender makeup of selection committees, executives, boards and films selected for the festival. Since then, dozens of festivals all over the world, including TIFF and the Venice Film Festival, have also signed the pledge and made changes.

Where are we now?

Despite its name, 5050×2020 doesn’t actually stipulate that festivals should reach gender parity this year, or how that concept applies to increasing the inclusion of people of colour, LGBTQIA and people with disabilities. At Cannes last year, the selection committee was 50% women for the first time in history, and a record number of the 19 films selected for Cannes’s main competition were directed by women—which sounds exciting until you find out that the “record number” was four, up from the previous year’s three. More than a third (36%) of TIFF’s 2019 lineup featured female directors, a small increase from previous years. Yet at Venice last year, out of the 21 films selected for the festival, only two were directed by women.

So, once again, there’s still a long way to go—but there are a few festivals that are *actually* making strides. Berlin film festivals got close to gender parity last year, with 41% of films directed by women, and Toronto’s Hot Docs managed to get the full 50%.

Sundance kicked off 2020 on a hopeful note with 44% of the selected films directed by women, which is a 4% increase from last year’s lineup, and 40% were directed by people of colour—both record highs for the festival. During Sundance, the Annenberg Inclusion Initiative presented new research that looked at the top film festivals from 2017–2019, that found that female directors—particularly women of colour—participate significantly less often at film festivals than their white male peers.

Read this next: Are Dudes Finally Standing Up for Women? 3 Times the Oscars Suggested Yes

“Despite the progress that is underway, the fact is that the voices and talent of women and people of colour remain marginalized,” said Stacy L. Smith, founder of the USC Annenberg Inclusion Initiative in a press statement. “The data in this report makes it clear that the next generation of women of colour filmmakers are not being launched into the industry at the same rate as their white male peers.”

The researchers noted that one of their most significant finding was that when festivals have more women of colour working as programmers, they are more likely to showcase movies by underrepresented female directors—highlighting that it is crucial to hire more women of colour in these roles.

ReFrame Stamp

What is it?

Consider this a new badge of honour in the industry. In addition to its industry partnerships, training tools and research to further gender parity in the media, ReFrame—a non-profit founded by Women in Film & Television (WIFT) L.A. and the Sundance Institute—created the ReFrame Stamp, which highlights female-driven content. The project awards points for TV shows and films that hire women in areas like writing, speaking parts and department heads. (A minimum of four out of a total of eight possible points is required to receive the stamp.) More points are awarded for the inclusion of women of colour. Think of it like the Bechdel test, except that it goes beyond the dialogue and rewards representations at multiple levels.

Where are we now?

The list of 2019 films that earned the stamp hasn’t been released yet, but in 2018, 29 of the 100 top-grossing movies in the US met the criteria, and this is noted in the films’ end credits, in publicity material and on ReFrame’s IMDb page. ReFrame and IMDbPro recently announced that they’ve renewed their partnership on this project and will continue awarding these distinctions through 2022.

So if all this is being done, why are award shows still not inclusive?

When Sharon McGowan co-founded WIFT Vancouver in 1989, she was ready to shake up the industry. “We thought ‘Equality is right around the corner if we just promote women and we celebrate and educate and train,” she says. Thirty years later, the industry has yet to turn around.

After looking at the data on the Canadian film industry, WIFT Vancouver pushed government organizations like Telefilm and the National Film Board of Canada to make sure that government funds were going toward projects that reflected and represented the diversity of the Canadian public. Both organizations have since started publishing gender-based data and increasing investments in films with women in key roles.

“There’s been a big change in Canada in government funding and regulation around this, so that’s the kind of systemic change that we’re talking about,” says McGowan. (The recent Annenberg Inclusion Initiative study also noted that festivals receiving state or federal funding in the US, or those with government support internationally should similarly be held accountable for making sure taxpayer dollars represent the diverse population of taxpayers.)

Once films get funded and produced, another major barrier on the road to awards is the critics. Data based on reviews of 2017’s top box office hits revealed that film critics are even less diverse than Hollywood, with 72% of reviewers being male and 82% being white, according to the Annenberg Inclusion Initiative. “When you only have one demographic judging all the films and telling a society what is valuable, then that’s where you’re also going to get into big problems,” Jessica Chastain told Variety during TIFF in 2017. The festival later announced a media mentorship program and pledged to ensure that 20% of accredited press is from under-represented communities. Earlier this year, Time’s Up also partnered with the Annenberg Inclusion Initiative to create Critical, an opt-in database of entertainment reporters and critics to help outlets increase the number of women, people of colour, people with disabilities, members of the LGBTQ community and gender non-binary individuals writing about film.

Read this next: I Love ’90s Pop Culture—Does That Make Me Problematic?

After making it past those gatekeepers, awards season is like the finish line for films—but, once again, these shows add another layer of issues. Sure, after #OscarsSoWhite the Academy pledged to double its female and minority membership by the end of 2020, but that just means that the number of people of colour went from 8% to 16%. As of 2019, women make up 32% of the Academy—meaning the people who determine the Oscar winners remain overwhelmingly white and male.

There is one area where we are actually seeing change

Yet, there is one area of the Oscars where the majority of the films nominated are either directed or co-directed by a woman—documentaries and documentary shorts, an industry that filmmaker Smriti Mundhra says doesn’t have the same gatekeepers as big Hollywood productions.

Mundhra had been working in the feature film industry for a decade and has seen multiple first-time male directors get their independent films funded and jumpstart their careers. She tried for five years to get hers made, but after getting little to no response from production companies or private equity financiers, she decided to try making documentaries. Unlike with feature films, documentaries didn’t require Mundhra to get thousands upfront. Instead she was able to use her savings and investments from friends to fund what eventually became the award-winning documentary A Suitable Girl, which has since streamed on both Amazon Prime and Netflix.

“[With documentaries] you don’t have to wait for anyone to believe in your vision—you can start building it brick by brick,” says Mundhra. “My experience is that once that starts happening, it’s harder for people to deny you and you can make films on your own terms, not the way you think you need to to get funding.” She has since sold an eight-part series to Netflix and put out two more documentaries, including St. Louis Superman, which has been nominated for an Oscar this year. “All of that happened in the same amount of time that I spent trying to get one feature film made,” she says.

Initiatives like inclusion riders, 5050×2020 and databases are all pieces of a larger push for systemic change that will—hopefully—ensure that future filmmakers don’t face the same frustrations as Mundhra, but it will take time. That said, McGowan says that we should not be patient.

Read this next: The Disturbingly Long List of All the Women Who Have Accused Harvey Weinstein

“This is a problem we’ve known about for decades, and it’s a problem that has had all sorts of semi-solutions that haven’t really done anything,” she says. “We need to demand change, we need to examine every single aspect of the system and we need to lobby for systemic changes to make this happen. We have a great moment now, and we can’t lose it.”

The post Why Are Awards Shows Still So Damn White and Male? appeared first on Flare.