Показаны сообщения с ярлыком Worn amp; Wound. Показать все сообщения
Показаны сообщения с ярлыком Worn amp; Wound. Показать все сообщения

понедельник, 17 февраля 2020 г.

G-SHOCK and the Ministry of Defense Team Up For a Carbon Core Based Limited Edition




The latest limited edition watch from G-Shock heralds the beginning of an official partnership between the brand and the United Kingdom Ministry of Defense. G-Shock watches have been favorites of military personnel for years for their durability, reliability, and general toughness, so this new formal partnership makes a lot of sense from both sides. The special edition seen here takes the Mudmaster platform and gives it some very obvious military inspired style cues, as well as some new functionality. Let’s take a closer look.



G-Shock British Army x G-Shock Mudmaster 




  • Case Material: Carbon/Resin

  • Dial: Black

  • Dimensions: 55.4 x 53.1 x 19.3mm 

  • Crystal: Mineral     

  • Water Resistance: 200 meters 

  • Crown: n/a           

  • Movement: Module 5594

  • Strap/bracelet: Resin 

  • Price: Approximately $460

  • Reference Number: GGB100BA-1A

  • Expected Release: April









The GGB100BA-1A, like other recently released G-Shocks, uses the brand’s new Carbon Core Guard Structure to create a case that’s lightweight but as strong as any G-Shock ever made. As we’ve explored previously, the use of the ultra strong carbon material enables G-Shock designers to shave millimeters off of a watch’s measurements without giving up anything in terms of durability. The Carbon Core acts as a thin but incredibly strong shell that protects the vital electronic components of the timepiece, which in turn makes for a lighter, more wearable watch. The extensive use of carbon in the bezel has the same effect: increased strength, combined with reduced overall weight. 









The special edition British Army X G-Shock Mudmaster has been given an aesthetic treatment appropriate for its name, and this new partnership. The camouflage colorway is a riff on the British Army’s Multi Terrain Pattern, and the black dial is meant to be sleek and inconspicuous (at least, in G-Shock terms). This watch, in a way, is a G-Shock interpretation of a classic field watch, with attention given to watch’s weight and wearability, and an emphasis placed on legibility. 


Everything that makes a Mudmaster a Mudmaster is still here in the GGB100BA-1A. As the name implies, this is a watch that’s meant to resist not only shocks, but also the ingress of debris into the case. The Mudmaster employs a cylindrical button structure, specifically developed to keep mud, dirt, and grime out of the case.









Like most modern G-Shocks, this watch has a suite of functions that are fit for soldiers on active duty as well as civilians who just need a reliable, functional, timekeeper in all sorts of conditions. The GGB100BA-1A is equipped with G-Shock’s Quad sensor system, which includes a compass,  thermometer, altimeter/barometer, and step tracker. It also features the usual timers, alarms, and calendars G-Shock users expect. The most interesting new technical feature is a function within the G-Shock Connected app that allows for detailed location tracking and memory features, as well as mission log memory. 


The GGB100BA-1A will be available in April, with a retail price of $460. G-SHOCK











Images from this post:






































The post G-SHOCK and the Ministry of Defense Team Up For a Carbon Core Based Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.

on Комментариев нет:
Ярлыки: , , , ,

Seiko Celebrates the Crown Chronograph with Three New Limited Edition Watches in the Presage Line




You may recall that back in October we brought you news of a new Seiko Presage chronograph inspired by the classic Seiko Crown Chronograph, the very first Japanese chrono. That watch had a crisp champagne dial, and took the Presage line in a direction that’s a bit more sporty than what we’ve seen in the past. Just as that watch, the SRQ031, is hitting store shelves, Seiko has announced a series of limited edition time and date watches modeled after the same vintage watch. If you’re a fan of the overall impression of the Crown Chronograph, but prefer a less complicated watch, these should hold a ton of interest.



Seiko Presage SPB129J1, SPB127J1, and SPB131J1 




  • Case Material: Stainless steel

  • Dial: Champagne, black, green

  • Dimensions: 41 x 48 x 11mm 

  • Crystal: Sapphire     

  • Water Resistance: 100 meters 

  • Crown: Push/pull           

  • Movement: 6R35

  • Strap/bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet 

  • Price: $825

  • Reference Number: SPB129J1, SPB127J1, and SPB131J1

  • Expected Release: February 









It’s a little ironic, but visually speaking, the new Presage references SPB127J1, SPB131J1, SPB129J1 we’re covering today have more in common with the Crown Chronograph than the SRQ031 linked above. The original Crown Chronograph, which dates from 1964, is rudimentary in function, and more of a stop-watch that tells the time than what we typically think of as a chronograph (it was a single pusher mechanism, and without registers for minutes and hours, could only track seconds). As you can see in the side-by-side images below, the new Presage has a direct aesthetic link to the vintage watch.










The new reference SPB131J1.





The original Crown Chronograph.









These new watches in the Presage line take all of the spirit of the Crown Chronograph and distill it into a simple time and date watch classic, vintage inspired looks. Held over from the original are dials (in your choice of three colors) that have a mixture finishing techniques in a sector-like layout. Hour markers are applied, as well as polished and faceted, and the Crown Chronograph’s fine minute gradations are ported to the new watches as well. 


Three versions of the Crown Chronograph inspired LE are available. The champagne dialed variant hews the closest to the original, but there’s also a sleek black and a modern green. They all look great, but the black benefits a great deal from a date aperture that is matched in color to the dial. Regardless of which color variant you select, all three watches have the same thin 60 minute bezel in black anodized aluminum, a final vintage inspired touch to complete the package.




















The case measures a hair over 41mm in diameter, and extends about 48mm from lug to lug. Seiko’s newer 6R35 movement is thinner than its predecessor, which allows for a trimmer case that’s only 11mm thick. This watch has sporty, casual vibe to it, but without the chunkiness and heft of true Seiko dive watch (although these are good for 100 meters of water resistance).


The new Crown Chronograph inspired Presage timepieces are limited to 1,964 examples, and will be available this month through the Seiko retail network. Seiko











Images from this post:














































The post Seiko Celebrates the Crown Chronograph with Three New Limited Edition Watches in the Presage Line appeared first on Worn & Wound.

on Комментариев нет:
Ярлыки: , , , , , , ,

воскресенье, 16 февраля 2020 г.

Now Available at Windup Watch Shop: Two Hamilton Watches with Vintage Military Roots

The post Now Available at Windup Watch Shop: Two Hamilton Watches with Vintage Military Roots appeared first on Worn & Wound.

on Комментариев нет:
Ярлыки: , ,

суббота, 15 февраля 2020 г.

Watches, Stories, and Gear: A New Film From Wes Anderson, Spying on Spies, and a Wintry Weekend on Hokkaido Island




“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of some of our favorite watch content on Worn & Wound, great stories from around the web, and cool gear that we’ve got our eye on.


This installment of “Watches, Stories, and Gear” is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop.



Worn & Wound
Watchmaker’s Bench: Are All Chronographs Created Equal?



This week we brought back “Watchmaker’s Bench,” a favorite old-school Worn & Wound series, so we thought we’d go back in time this week and highlight this early column from watchmaker Ashton Tracy that covers the key differences between integrated and modular chronographs. As Ashton explains in the column, both types of chronos have their pros and cons. Even if you already know the fundamental differences between the two, hearing it from a watchmaker’s perspective is incredibly valuable.


Read it here










YouTube
The French Dispatch Trailer



Wes Anderson’s first live action film since the nine time Oscar nominated Grand Budapest Hotel arrives later this year, and the first trailer hit the internet this week. It’s always hard to tell from a single preview, but The French Dispatch seems to lean in to the Anderson style that he’s cultivated over the years, which is likely exciting if you’re a fan of his work. This one has a typically outstanding cast, filled with Anderson veterans, and a handful of newcomers. The French Dispatch hits theaters in July, and you can bet we’ll be on the lookout for some vintage watch spotting as soon as we can.









The Washington Post
“The Intelligence Coup of the Century”



We all know that the CIA and other security agencies use complex communication systems to encrypt secure messages. But have you ever thought about how those systems came to be? And what if the company that built them and did the same for similar agencies in other countries was actually secretly owned by the CIA? This Washington Post story is equal parts gripping, anger inducing, and simply fascinating. It reads like a real life spy novel.


Read it here









The New York Times
36 Hours in Niseko



Japan’s Hokkaido Island, in the northernmost reaches of the country, is a popular winter sports destination, and this bit of travel journalism in the New York Times is a great summary of how to get the most out of a short stay at Niseko, a popular ski resort. Whether you’re planning a trip to Japan or not, this piece does what the best travel writing is supposed to do: make you want to get away, and keep you awe struck with some truly amazing photography.


Read it here










RovyVon
700 Lumens Flashlight



Flashlights, like watches, are one of those tools that exists within a wide strata. Yes, you can buy a basic one for a few bucks almost anywhere, and it will get the job done well enough, in most cases. But you can spend a little more, and you’ll find that when good design and newer tech comes into play, it can turn a common tool into an indispensable item. This 700 lumens flashlight from RovyVon is not only a high intensity flashlight, but features a “side light ” designed for reading, and multiple UV light settings, all in a small form factor that can clip to your clothing, perfect for everyday carry.


Shop RovyVon here










Craighill
Closed Helix Keyring 



Maybe, someday, in the distant future, we’ll advance to the point where carrying around a bunch of metal keys in your pocket all day is no longer necessary. But until retina scans open everything that’s locked, we have to figure out a way to manage these primitive little tools. This keyring from Craighill is a simple but elegant twist on the traditional keyring, that uses a closed helix design with a knurled cap on one end. Simply unscrew the cap, slide your keys on to the wire, and screw the cap back on. Anyone who has ever struggled in vain to pry apart the sides of a normal keyring to fit odd sized keys will appreciate the design benefit here.


Shop Craighill here



 





The post Watches, Stories, and Gear: A New Film From Wes Anderson, Spying on Spies, and a Wintry Weekend on Hokkaido Island appeared first on Worn & Wound.

on Комментариев нет:
Ярлыки: , ,

пятница, 14 февраля 2020 г.

Review: Laco Frankfurt GMT




If you find yourself frequently bouncing across timezones, a GMT watch should be in your collection. Sure, you can just adjust your watch as you travel, but frequent trips can leave you in a daze, and sometimes it’s nice to know what time it is at home without doing all that mental math. Even if you don’t find yourself living a Jetset lifestyle, a lot of us have to communicate with people in different time zones for work, so a watch with a GMT complication can certainly be useful there.



Laco’s new Frankfurt GMT is a tough, legible tool watch with a GMT complication that’ll make for a great travel (or desk) companion. It’s surprisingly capable and has all the right features to be a go-anywhere, do-anything type of watch. It’s a departure from Laco’s other core watches, at least as far as the design is concerned, making it a welcome change of pace from what one might expect from the brand. Let’s dig in.















$1990






Review: Laco Frankfurt GMT




Case

Dark sandblasted stainless steel



Movement

Automatic Laco 93 GMT (ETA 2893-2 base)



Dial

Gray with internal rotating GMT bezel



Lume

Swiss Super-LumiNova® C3



Lens

Double-dome sapphire crystal with AR coating



Strap

Black water-resistant leather strap and gray/orange two piece nylon



Water Resistance

200 meters



Dimensions

43 x 50mm



Thickness

12.5mm



Lug Width

20mm



Crown

Dual Screw-down



Warranty

Yes



Price

$1990








Case


The Frankfurt is housed in a sandblasted stainless steel case. Instead of your standard polished or brushed steel, the blasted finish gives it a dark gray matte look that matches the dial and bezel inside. It’s a lot of gray, but there are some pops of color throughout the dial that liven it up just enough to avert boredom.


The machining and finish are excellent. Edges are sharp, curves are smooth, and the case transitions well from section to section. The slope between the dual crowns is executed especially well with one crown guard curving gently into the next. In profile, the case is well balanced between the top bezel, mid-case, and caseback. The mid-case follows the circular curve of the dial, avoiding the dreaded “slab side” effect. And while a matte finish can be boring in some instances, the precise machining and balanced proportions more than make up for the monotone appearance.






















Measuring in at 43mm with a 50mm lug-to-lug, the Frankfurt is not for the faint of wrist. It’s a large watch that wears that way, and there’s no getting around that. On my 6.75” wrist it has some serious presence. While the lugs don’t overhang the edges of my wrist, the Frankfurt feels like the max I’d be comfortable with wearing. The lugs are on the stubbier side and curve down towards the wrist. Had Laco went with straight lugs, it wouldn’t wear as well. I’m setting this up like it’s a bad thing, but the larger case means more room for the wide open, highly legible dial within.


On the right side of the case, you’ll find two identical screw-down crowns. The top crown operates the internal rotating 24-hour bezel, while the bottom one takes care of date, time, and adjusting the GMT hand. Both crowns are onion shaped with deep grooves cut into the surface. They’re easy to operate and the threads are buttery-smooth. Around back, you’ll see an engraving of a plane traveling around the world. While the engraving is high quality, there’s something about the angle of the plane and the wings that looks a little, well, off to me. Maybe it’s a little too cartoony? Regardless, this is just a matter of personal preference.



The caseback engraving, in the same bead blasted finish as the rest of the case.









Dial and Hands


The expansive dial is a light mid-gray that is clearly meant to match the tones of the case. There’s some flieger DNA running through here, and it stands out most notably with the triangle and double dots prominently displayed at 12:00. Hours and minutes are printed in pale green C3 Super-LumiNova, with a large “3” and “9.” There’s a rectangular beveled date window at 6:00, with small “Made in Germany” text just underneath. Laco’s logo is printed under 12:00, while the text “GMT” balances it out right above 6:00.


Broad, sword-shaped hands are heat-treated to a deep blue hue, and are especially easy to read in both light and dark conditions  thanks to a healthy hit of lume. As a nod to aviation and travel, the seconds hand features a jet-shaped counter balance rendered in the same gray as the dial. The opposite end of the hand is white, again with a focus on legibility. I can appreciate making the jet accent the same color as the dial — it’s large enough to be seen without being too visually imposing.











Small details like the counterweight of the seconds hand in the shape of a plane give the Frankfurt a distinct personality.








Since the Frankfurt is a GMT watch, there’s also a dedicated GMT hand. The length of the hand is slim and gray like the dial, while the tip features a skeletonized orange arrow that picks up on the orange triangle at the top of the GMT bezel. It’s a nice little accent that gives a much-needed pop of color to a watch dominated by its gray tones. Running around the outside of the dial, you’ll find a 24-hour GMT bezel that’s operated via the top crown. It’s a split color theme with black for the night hours and light gray for the day hours. The numerals and hash marks between are printed in the same C3 lume seen on the dial. When fully charged, the lume gives off one heck of a light show. Laco went the extra mile by treating the tip of the GMT hand and the triangle on the bezel with orange lume. Overall, the dial is very easy to read, provides something interesting to look at, and even has colorful contrasting elements. It’s well-executed from a form-and-function point of view — not surprising from a German brand like Laco.









Movement


Inside the Frankfurt you’ll find a modified ETA 2893-2 automatic movement with GMT functionality. ETA’s movement has its own dedicated GMT hand for tracking another time zone. With an ETA based GMT, the 24 hour GMT hand is independently adjustable, making a watch with this movement useful if you need to track the time in a far flung timezone from your home base. This differs from a “true” traveler’s GMT (like those made by Rolex and Grand Seiko), where the main hour hand jumps with you across time zones, leaving the GMT hand at home. The GMT feature on the Frankfurt, then, is more useful for those who have to frequently communicate across time zones, rather than travel across them. If you’re stationary in a single location, having the main hands point to the local time and the GMT hand to another timezone allows you to quickly and easily read the local time and reference the other hand only when you need to.


The Frankfurt is technically capable of tracking up to three time zones, thanks to the internal rotating 24 hour bezel. Although you may have to do a bit of mental math to calculate the third time zone using GMT-offset, the capability is there for those who need it.
















Straps and Wearability


Laco’s Frankfurt ships with two strap options. There’s a sturdy textured black leather strap that gives off a refined, yet rugged look. On the wrist, it’s comfortable and flexible. After a little break in, it’ll be even better. The strap is also water resistant, which I always appreciate. Even the act of washing my hands with a leather strap on always makes me nervous about stains and damage. In addition to the leather strap, there’s a more colorful two piece nylon strap in the case. It’s a pretty standard strap, but the gray base and orange stripe do a great job of adding color to the watch, picking up on the orange accents throughout the dial.






















The Frankfurt is a very versatile watch. You could throw this on pretty much any strap you’d like, and it’ll look great. I enjoyed it on a variety of olive green and khaki single pass straps during my time with the watch. It really gave off a cool military pilot vibe. If you prefer, you could just as easily throw it on a leather strap and dress it up just a little bit. I touched on it earlier, but the watch wears big on my 6.75” wrist. Those with larger wrists will really appreciate how it wears.








Conclusion


The biggest takeaway for me from my time with the Frankfurt is its versatility. The high level of water resistance, durable matte finish, and GMT functionality make it a great watch for both travel and home. It’s easy to read in all conditions and will look great on nearly any strap you throw at it. For a watch made in Germany from one of the original five Flieger manufacturers, the value is there. The Frankfurt feels solid, but priced just shy of $2,000, it doesn’t exactly come cheap. If you’re looking for a solid, German-made travel companion, then the Frankfurt might just be for you.



You can snag your own Frankfurt GMT in either the gray color seem here or a handsome black dialed version. It ships in a cool aluminum case with some goodies like a “Remove Before Flight” keychain and a Laco-branded spring bar tool for $1,990. Laco











Images from this post:































































The post Review: Laco Frankfurt GMT appeared first on Worn & Wound.

on Комментариев нет:
Ярлыки: , , , ,

четверг, 13 февраля 2020 г.

AVI-8 Pays Tribute to the Spitfire with their Latest Special Edition




AVI-8 has announced their first new watch of 2020, a tribute to the Spitfire aircraft with an automatic movement. We’ve covered AVI-8 at length here at Worn & Wound, and their watches inhabit an interesting niche that’s worth exploring. Since their inception, AVI-8 has produced a series of watches that serve as tribute collectibles that honor important aircraft while simultaneously offering a contemporary spin on aviation watch design. They harness the idea of classic Flieger watches and add tons of color and explicit references to aviation history in the design of their timepieces, and this type of storytelling through their unique watches is one of the things that really set them apart. Let’s take a closer look at the new Spitfire Type 300 Automatic Edition.



AVI-8 Spitfire Type 300 Automatic




  • Case Material: Stainless steel 

  • Dial: Blue, green, black, gray

  • Dimensions: 42 x 13.6mm

  • Crystal: Sapphire     

  • Water Resistance: 5 ATM

  • Crown: Push/pull         

  • Movement: Miyota 8218

  • Strap/bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet

  • Price: Approximately $435 – $490

  • Reference Number: AV-4073-11, AV-4073-22, AV-4073-33, AV-4073-44









The Supermarine Spitfire was developed in 1934 and would eventually become one of the most recognized and important aircrafts ever created. It was a pillar of the Royal Air Force throughout World War II, and continues to capture the imagination of history buffs, pilots, and watch lovers alike. This, of course, is not the first watch to bear the Spitfire name – IWC has produced a line of pilot’s watches under the Spitfire name for many years. AVI-8’s tribute to the Spitfire is of course very different from IWC’s series of wattches, which are really designed as tools for aviators. The Spitfire Type 300 Automatic Edition is more akin to a history lesson in the form of a physical object. 









As with other AVI-8 watches, the Spitfire Type 300 Automatic takes many design cues right from the famous fighter plane on which it is based. Some of those design cues are obvious (the winding rotor is cut in the shape of the Spitfire), and some are much more subtle (the shape of the crown is a reference to the nose of the propellor). The most important design element is likely the lines of the case itself, which are modeled after the shape of the plane, something that should be easily identifiable to anyone who has spent time studying the Spitfire. In practice, what that means for the watch is a quite elegant case shape, that appears would hug the natural curvature of most wrists with ease. 


AVI-8’s dials are always a great opportunity for the brand to get incredibly specific with references to the planes that are the inspiration for their timepieces. Naturally, the dial has an instrument like appearance, using gauges and readouts from vintage Spitfires as inspiration for the design. The hands have been designed with legibility in mind (fitting for any watch that has anything at all to do with aviation) and key dial elements are covered in yellow lume (or white, depending on the dial variant chosen), providing an appropriate vintage aesthetic for a watch of this type. 



Four color variants are available, and all are actually quite subdued. You can have your choice of dials in blue, green, black, or gray, and all are available on three-link oyster style bracelets. Some of these AVI-8 editions can go well over the top with on-the-nose tributes to aircraft visible right on the dial, but the Spitfire is more sober, and more obviously suitable as a normal watch than some of its counterparts. This was the right move by AVI-8 – the Spitfire is so iconic, it simply doesn’t need lavish treatment that other, less familiar aircraft might have received. 




















The Spitfire Type 300 Automatic will retail between $435 and $490 depending on the dial and bracelet configuration. AVI-8 will be officially launching the watch soon, so be sure to sign up to receive more information as it becomes available via their website. AVI-8











Images from this post:














































































The post AVI-8 Pays Tribute to the Spitfire with their Latest Special Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.

on Комментариев нет:
Ярлыки: , , , ,

среда, 12 февраля 2020 г.

Timex Goes Mechanical With the All New M79 Automatic




When Timex launched the Q last summer, it became a hit almost immediately. Sold out for months on the Timex website (but, at press time, available here), the simple but stylish vintage inspired quartz watch traded for a substantial premium on watch forums and resale outlets, and there was a long stretch of time when it seemed like you couldn’t open Instagram without being inundated with Q photos. It was as much of a phenomenon as we’ve seen in the value driven watch space in recent years. Still, some complained. Watch lovers are a finicky bunch. While many were thrilled with a meticulously detailed quartz throwback (complete with a battery hatch on the caseback) some die hard enthusiasts vocalized a strong preference for a mechanical movement. And even though the the red and blue “Pepsi” bezel was historically accurate to the original Q, some watch fans just want to watch the world burn, and prefer a darker, perhaps more “Batman-esque” palette. Well, Timex heard their fans, and have delivered on a watch that many have been conjuring in their mind since the reintroduction of the Q last year. Let’s take a look at the new M79 Automatic.



Timex M79 Automatic




  • Case Material: Stainless steel 

  • Dial: Black

  • Dimensions: 40mm 

  • Crystal: Acrylic    

  • Water Resistance: 50 meters

  • Crown: Push/pull        

  • Movement: Japanese Miyota 8000-series

  • Strap/bracelet: Stainless steel woven bracelet

  • Price: $279

  • Reference Number: TW2U29500

  • Expected Release: February 12









This isn’t a hard watch to understand. What we have here is the now familiar and hugely popular Q case shape, but with an automatic movement inside, and a black and blue dive bezel replacing the 12 hour Pepsi bezel. The case is slightly larger than the Q at 40mm, but the proportions and case lines seem to have been reproduced quite effectively. Vintage touches like the Mercedes hour hand, the mixing of rectangular and circular lume plots, and a period correct woven bracelet have also been ported over to the M79.









While the Timex Q was essentially a reproduction of a watch that actually existed in Timex’s back catalog, it’s an interesting development that subsequent releases in this line are fresh ideas that use the Q as inspiration, rather than simply copying it. Readers will remember that Timex also released the Q Falcon Eye last year, which used a slightly different case shape and gold accents to suggest a watch with more of a late 80s Miami vibe, even though that particular watch was simply a product of the imagination of the current Timex design team. Similarly, the new M79 looks familiar, but is actually entirely new, and speaks to the coherence in Timex’s strategy of building a line of watches with very specific roots in 70s and 80s design cues. 



The M79 (the “M” here stands for “mechanical”) uses a Japanese automatic movement, that is visible through the display caseback. In spite of the unidirectional dive bezel, this watch is not meant for great depth, although it is rated to 50 meters of water resistance, so day to day splashes here and there shouldn’t trouble it too much. At $279 it’s a full $100 more expensive than the Q, but still a good value for a mechanical watch with a time tested, enduring design. The M79 is available right now on the Timex website, so definitely head over there to place your order quickly if you want one, as the previous incarnations of this watch have been hard for Timex to keep in stock. Timex











Images from this post:










































The post Timex Goes Mechanical With the All New M79 Automatic appeared first on Worn & Wound.

on Комментариев нет:
Ярлыки: , , ,

вторник, 11 февраля 2020 г.

From Stowa to IWC, a Guide to 10 Flieger Watches




There’s no denying the longstanding popularity of a good Flieger watch. They’re one of the earliest military watch styles, and have remained in the horological lexicon since their inception. Originally based on a German WWII military design spec, Flieger watches were made for pilots to wear in the cockpit. There are five original manufacturers: A. Lange & Söhne, Laco, Stowa, Wempe, and IWC.


Chronometer testing for supreme accuracy, a robust and utilitarian 55mm case, and a long riveted strap designed to fit over a flight jacket were strict requirements of the design. On the dial, there’s a triangle at 12:00 with a dot on both sides so the wearer could quickly determine where 12:00 was and which way on the dial was up. A generous onion-shaped crown was necessary for making adjustments while wearing thick gloves. All of the original watches looked nearly identical because they had a strict spec to follow, though they were manufactured by different companies. Laco still makes a true to the original design, including the large 55mm case with a hand winding movement. It’s about as close as you can get to owning an original flieger fresh out of assembly from one of the five original brands without breaking the bank.



Image courtesy of Laco.



Modern flieger watches still largely stick to that classic template, but take their own liberties in design to stand out from the pack. Today, we’re taking a look at ten great Fliegers — some classic, some modern, but all worthy of the watches they’re inspired by. 



Steinhart Nav B-Uhr 44 Handaufzug



Steinhart has long offered serious bang-for-the-buck, and that’s especially true with their expansive “Nav B-Uhr” line. One of the longstanding models in this family of watches is the Nav B-Uhr 44 Handaufzug, a 44mm, Unitas 6497-powered hand-cranker with a small-seconds sub-dial at 9:00. At around $430, you get a timeless design and a solid Swiss movement that’s a joy to look at and operate. While there are certainly more “authentic” options on this list, like the watch right below this one, it’s hard to argue with the incredible value Steinhart offers here.


~$430 – Check it out here








Laco B-UHR 42mm “Paderborn”



The “Paderborn” is another offering from Laco. While it still looks the part of an authentic Flieger watch, the size is much more wearable by modern standards. Measuring in at 42mm, there’s still plenty of watch to go around, but it’s not quite as gargantuan as the 55mm beast we covered above. You may notice that the watch looks a little different, too, thanks to the “type B” dial design. Instead of hours at each index, it counts up in 5 minute intervals. There’s an inner ring with the hour markings on it and a shortened hours hand that stays within that small ring. The Laco Paderborn features a dark sandblasted case with a domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, Super-LumiNova C3 paint throughout, and a riveted brown calf leather strap.


$1,190 – Check it out here








Stowa Flieger Classic 40



This flieger is Stowa’s classic 40mm pilot’s watch — a more wearable version of the classic large pilot’s watch. It features the original spec black dial, which is highly legible thanks to the contrasting white markings throughout. The hour and minutes hand are heat treated to achieve a shiny blue hue and filled with Superluminova C3 lume so they’re easy to read in light or dark conditions. Inside, there’s an automatic ETA 2824-2 top-grade movement that’s good for 38 hours of power reserve with hand winding and hacking capabilities. Around the back of the case, you’re treated to a view of the movement where you can observe the engraved handmade rotor and some basic but well implemented decoration. Stowa’s Flieger 40 also features slightly curvier lugs than the original Flieger watches, giving it a more modern appearance. At just over $1,000, this watch represents a solid value from one of the original Flieger watch manufactures.  


~$1,013 – Check out out here


Stowa Flieger Classic Chrono



Adding some functionality to the classic Flieger design is the Flieger Classic Chrono from Stowa. This chronograph measures in at a very wearable 41mm. The dial is largely similar to a classic pilot’s watch, with the exception of the large sub dial at 3:00 that tracks a 30-minute interval for the chrono function. The oversized crown is flanked on either side by chrono pushers that you can use to activate the Valjoux 7753’s timing function. If you’re looking for a chronograph that still maintains a classic Flieger design, the Stowa is an excellent option. In addition to the chronograph movement, the watch is built on a solid set of base specs (stainless steel case, heat-blued hands, Super-LumiNova on the dial and hands, and premium riveted strap) that you’d expect from Stowa.


~$1,033 – Check it out here








Archimede GMT Bronze



Switching things up a little is the Archimede GMT Bronze. This 42mm watch is housed in a unique bronze alloy case that measures in at a surprisingly thin 9.5mm. Adding some additional functionality is the Swiss ETA 2893-2 GMT movement with date display. A bright red GMT hand allows you to track another time zone and the date at 6:00 is unobtrusive and lends the dial a bit of symmetry. GMT watches can sometimes appear overly busy, but the classic Flieger design utilized here keeps things clean and legible. Additional features like an oversized and textured crown, blued steel hands, and luminous paint for easy legibility in the dark round out this finely crafted GMT watch from Archimede.


~$1,330 – Check it out here








Sinn 856 B-Uhr LE



Sinn’s 856 B-Uhr is a modern take on the Flieger aesthetic. Made in Germany, this watch is crafted with a bunch of Sinn’s proprietary technology packed inside. For example, the watch’s stainless steel case is “Tegimented” — a hardening process that makes the case impervious to most everyday scratches. Inside the case, there’s a humidity-controlling copper sulfate capsule embedded into one of the lugs. Should any water get inside the case, the capsule turns dark blue, indicating that it’s time for a service. As an additional protection, the case of the watch is filled with inert Argon gas to keep the oils in the movement from reacting with the atmosphere. As a modern expression of a traditional Flieger, you’ll appreciate the more contemporary take on the B-dial variant we already saw above, this time rendered in vintage-tone luminous paint (though it feels more just like a cool color choice and not “patina”). As far as modern flieger-style watches go, Sinn is one of the best out there. Rock solid construction, extremely wearable proportions, and plenty of Sinn’s modern watchmaking tech — it’s a great package.


$1,860 – Check it out here








Damasko DA46 Black



This blacked-out watch from Damasko is an interesting take on the Flieger. While it clearly draws inspiration from pilot’s watches, Damasko took a much more modern and aggressive approach to the design of the watch. The ultra-durable, ice-hardened steel case is treated with a black “Damest” coating for additional durability and a sleek look. The DA46 is customizable to the preferences of the owner: Damasko lets you choose from a variety of straps and even two different bezel offerings (a 12-hour bezel or a more traditional 60-minute counter) to make the watch your own. The DA46 measures in at 40mm in diameter for the case, expanding slightly to 41.9mm at the rotating bezel. Powering the watch is a Swiss ETA 2836-2 elabore-grade movement with 38 hours of power reserve. A flat sapphire crystal prevents scratches to the glass, while the 100 meter water resistance rating is ideal for a wide range of activities in the water or out.


~$1,500 – Check it out here


Fortis Pilot Classic Small Seconds



Fortis’ Pilot Classic Small Seconds is an elegant take on the Flieger. While it could still hold its own in a cockpit, the 40mm stainless steel case is polished to an elegant shine. While most other pilot’s watches feature a brushed or a blasted finish, the polishing on the Fortis gives it an elevated look while remaining sporty. Inside the watch, there’s an ETA 2894-2 automatic movement, visible through the mineral glass case back. The dial still features the signature triangular marking at 12:00, but takes some liberties with the design of the handset and numeric indices. There’s also a small seconds indicator at 6:00 with an integrated date display. While you can still see the Flieger DNA running through the Pilot Classic from Fortis, it’s definitely a more modern take on the design.


$1,180 – Check it out here








IWC Spitfire Automatic



The Spitfire series from IWC draws inspiration from the legendary Mark XI navigation watch built for the British Royal Air Force in the 1940s. While the watch may pull from the past, an overhauled spec sheet brings the Spitfire firmly into the modern era. For starters, it features a new movement from IWC’s Caliber 32000 family, with an impressive 72-hour power reserve. It’s housed in a wearable 39mm stainless steel case with a premium brushed finish throughout. On the back, you’ll find a high quality engraving of the watch’s namesake — the Spitfire fighter plane. A clean dial with just the right amount of vintage-style lume makes this one look like an instant classic. At $4,450, the Spitfire isn’t cheap, but the new movement and luxury-level finishing help justify the price tag.


$4,450 – Check it out here


IWC Big Pilot



It would be hard to write a guide about Fliegers without mentioning the classic IWC Big Pilot. Part luxury watch, part mechanical achievement, the Big Pilot is both big in size and in attitude. At 46.2mm and 15.5mm thick, this watch really packs a punch on the wrist. Inside the watch, there’s a 52110 Calibre IWC automatic movement that builds up to a 168 hour power reserve — that’s a full seven days! It’s finished with Côtes de Genève and perlage throughout, even through it’s protected by a solid steel case back. The numerals and hands are big, bold, and very easy to read. At 3:oo, you’ll notice the power reserve indicator with a scale from 1 to 7 days and a date display at 6:00. The case finishing is largely brushed, with a slim polished bezel around the dial. The large, onion-shaped crown is precisely cut and polished to a shine, and its size makes for easy operation. The Big Pilot is a modern classic that mixes traditional Flieger aesthetics with modern watchmaking technology and a premium, luxury oriented finish, making it highly prized by collectors.


$12,900 – Check it out here





The post From Stowa to IWC, a Guide to 10 Flieger Watches appeared first on Worn & Wound.

on Комментариев нет:
Ярлыки: , , ,
Подписаться на: Сообщения (Atom)