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вторник, 18 февраля 2020 г.

Sinn Debuts Two New Limited Editions: A Bright Blue 104, and the Return of a Classic Chrono (With a Twist)

Sinn has announced two brand new limited edition watches, with each representing a fresh riff on an iconic design. In these two limited editions, we see much of what makes Sinn special to many collectors and enthusiasts in two watch genres that are right in their wheelhouse: the chronograph, and the pilot’s watch. Sinn, at times, has experimented with these formats and used their proprietary technologies to make watches that are design forward and quite contemporary, but both of the watches recently introduced are on the more traditional end of the spectrum.


Sinn 158

  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Dial: Black
  • Dimensions: 43 x 15mm
  • Crystal: Acrylic     
  • Water Resistance: 10 bar
  • Crown: Push/pull            
  • Movement: Sellita SW510
  • Strap/bracelet: Textile, leather, silicone
  • Price: $2,660
  • Reference Number: 158
  • Expected Release: First shipments in March 2020

Sinn 104 St Sa A B E

  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Dial: Blue
  • Dimensions: 41 x 11.5mm 
  • Crystal: Sapphire      
  • Water Resistance: 20 bar
  • Crown: Screw down            
  • Movement: Sellita SW-220-1
  • Strap/bracelet: Canvas/leather
  • Price: $1,430
  • Reference Number: 104 St Sa A B E
  • Expected Release: First shipments in March 2020 

First up is Model 158, a modern reissue of the classic (and extremely collectible) two-register pilot’s chronograph, the Sinn Bundeswehr chronograph, model 155 Bw. The story of the 155 Bw will be familiar to long time Sinn aficionados, as each began its life as another watch entirely, made by Heuer-Leonidas for the German military. Helmut Sinn was able to purchase unused stock of these would-be military issued chronographs, and with a touch of reconditioning to reflect Sinn branding, the 155 Bw was born. Naturally, as the production was dependent on a donor watch from another source, these were quite rare even at the time they were sold, and have become highly sought after by chronograph lovers, and thus a prime candidate for the reissue treatment. 



Fans of watches from this era in Sinn’s history will be pleased with what the brand has come up with to pay tribute to the 155 Bw. It’s a 43mm stainless steel case that has been bead blasted for a decidedly toolish look and feel. The crystal is old fashioned acrylic, not sapphire, and the bezel is anodized aluminum, just like the originals. The dial is clean and legible, and it boasts a handset that is a small departure from the set found on the original, pulling instead from the legendary Lemania-powered 156 chronograph. The movement is the only concession to modernity here ‚ the 158 is powered by a Sellita SW510, and automatic caliber with running seconds at 9:00, a minute totalizer at 3:00, and a date at 6:00 (the original 155 Bw used a hand wound Valjoux 230 movement). The Sinn 158 is limited to just 500 pieces in total. 

Next up is the 104 St Sa A B E. This watch is perhaps a bit easier to understand than the 158, as it’s not a reintroduction of a specific watch from Sinn’s history, but simply a limited edition variant of one of their most popular offerings. The 104, of course, is one of Sinn’s most popular and pure aviation inspired watches. The standard version comes with a black dial (and a choice of Arabic numerals or rectangular indices), and in the past it has also been made available in white, green, and sunburst anthracite variants. This edition in blue with ivory colored faux-tina lume is limited to 1000 pieces. While the case is polished and the dial is not a traditional color for a pilot’s watch, the 104 is notable in that it’s always extremely capable as a tool watch, regardless of how it happens to be treated aesthetically. This version, like the others, is water resistant to 200 meters and features a screw down crown, along with a sapphire crystal. 

Watchbuys is the exclusive US Sinn distributor, and these new limited editions can be pre-ordered directly from their website. Sinn

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First Look at Rado’s Ghostly Gray Captain Cook

In just a few short years, Rado’s Captain Cook line has gone from dormant to something of a cornerstone collection for the brand. Such is the way of the watch world in the age of the vintage reissue: if a design that is truly timeless is reintroduced and well executed, it’s almost certain to become a hit. What’s interesting about the Captain Cook is that when it was initially reintroduced it came in at a size that was much smaller than a typical modern diver – that first “HyperChrome” Captain Cook measured just 37mm in diameter. While the watch we’ll be discussing today is 5mm larger, the Captain Cook line has successfully maintained a great deal of vintage charm in its overall aesthetic through a series of interesting releases that have used Rado’s back catalog as a guide.


Rado Captain Cook Automatic 

  • Case Material: Stainless steel 
  • Dial: Gray
  • Dimensions: 42mm
  • Crystal: Sapphire     
  • Water Resistance: 200 meters 
  • Crown: Screw down          
  • Movement: C07.611
  • Strap/bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet, leather strap, mil-spec nylon 
  • Price: $2,250
  • Reference Number: R32505018
  • Expected Release: Available now 

The Captain Cook Automatic seen here is visually consistent with the rest of the Captain Cook line, which now includes watches in a variety of sizes (up to 45mm) and color options. This example in gray is a nod to the popular “ghosted” look found on many vintage divers from the 1960s, which is essentially normal watch wear and tear that some collectors are keen to spend quite a premium to have in the vault. The conceit of this particular Captain Cook is that for a little over $2,000 you can experience that look in a watch that’s extremely wearable for the modern consumer, with the weathered and faded look being built into a diver that you won’t need to treat with kid gloves. 

The Captain Cook Automatic is water resistant to a full 200 meters and is equipped with a ceramic bezel insert, sapphire crystal and a date display at 3:00 – all the ingredients for vintage inspired diver that’s been updated to meet modern standards. While some traditionalists may bristle at the inclusion of a date window on a watch like this, it’s the little pop of red text there that gives the dial a good dose of vintage flair. The now familiar Captain Cook anchor logo at 12:00 helps in this regard as well. The simple, tool-ish design is completely rooted in the 1960s.

At $2,250, the Captain Cook Automatic is an interesting value proposition for watch enthusiasts interested in vintage inspired divers from brands with real heritage, but are maybe a little more off the beaten path than many of the big Swiss watchmakers. Rado are really known more for design forward dress watches and their early adoption of ceramic as a watchmaking material. That makes the Captain Cook a bit of a curiosity, which is definitely part of the appeal for many. Rado

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понедельник, 17 февраля 2020 г.

Seiko Celebrates the Crown Chronograph with Three New Limited EditionWatches in the Presage Line

You may recall that back in October we brought you news of a new Seiko Presage chronograph inspired by the classic Seiko Crown Chronograph, the very first Japanese chrono. That watch had a crisp champagne dial, and took the Presage line in a direction that’s a bit more sporty than what we’ve seen in the past. Just as that watch, the SRQ031, is hitting store shelves, Seiko has announced a series of limited edition time and date watches modeled after the same vintage watch. If you’re a fan of the overall impression of the Crown Chronograph, but prefer a less complicated watch, these should hold a ton of interest.

Seiko Presage SPB129J1, SPB127J1, and SPB131J1 


  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Dial: Champagne, black, green
  • Dimensions: 41 x 48 x 11mm 
  • Crystal: Sapphire     
  • Water Resistance: 100 meters 
  • Crown: Push/pull           
  • Movement: 6R35
  • Strap/bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet 
  • Price: $825
  • Reference Number: SPB129J1, SPB127J1, and SPB131J1
  • Expected Release: February 

It’s a little ironic, but visually speaking, the new Presage references SPB127J1, SPB131J1, SPB129J1 we’re covering today have more in common with the Crown Chronograph than the SRQ031 linked above. The original Crown Chronograph, which dates from 1964, is rudimentary in function, and more of a stop-watch that tells the time than what we typically think of as a chronograph (it was a single pusher mechanism, and without registers for minutes and hours, could only track seconds). As you can see in the side-by-side images below, the new Presage has a direct aesthetic link to the vintage watch.
The new reference SPB131J1.
The original Crown Chronograph.
These new watches in the Presage line take all of the spirit of the Crown Chronograph and distill it into a simple time and date watch classic, vintage inspired looks. Held over from the original are dials (in your choice of three colors) that have a mixture finishing techniques in a sector-like layout. Hour markers are applied, as well as polished and faceted, and the Crown Chronograph’s fine minute gradations are ported to the new watches as well. 
Three versions of the Crown Chronograph inspired LE are available. The champagne dialed variant hews the closest to the original, but there’s also a sleek black and a modern green. They all look great, but the black benefits a great deal from a date aperture that is matched in color to the dial. Regardless of which color variant you select, all three watches have the same thin 60 minute bezel in black anodized aluminum, a final vintage inspired touch to complete the package.



The case measures a hair over 41mm in diameter, and extends about 48mm from lug to lug. Seiko’s newer 6R35 movement is thinner than its predecessor, which allows for a trimmer case that’s only 11mm thick. This watch has sporty, casual vibe to it, but without the chunkiness and heft of true Seiko dive watch (although these are good for 100 meters of water resistance).
The new Crown Chronograph inspired Presage timepieces are limited to 1,964 examples, and will be available this month through the Seiko retail network. Seiko
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четверг, 13 февраля 2020 г.

AVI-8 Pays Tribute to the Spitfire with their Latest Special Edition

AVI-8 has announced their first new watch of 2020, a tribute to the Spitfire aircraft with an automatic movement. We’ve covered AVI-8 at length here at Worn & Wound, and their watches inhabit an interesting niche that’s worth exploring. Since their inception, AVI-8 has produced a series of watches that serve as tribute collectibles that honor important aircraft while simultaneously offering a contemporary spin on aviation watch design. They harness the idea of classic Flieger watches and add tons of color and explicit references to aviation history in the design of their timepieces, and this type of storytelling through their unique watches is one of the things that really set them apart. Let’s take a closer look at the new Spitfire Type 300 Automatic Edition.


AVI-8 Spitfire Type 300 Automatic

  • Case Material: Stainless steel 
  • Dial: Blue, green, black, gray
  • Dimensions: 42 x 13.6mm
  • Crystal: Sapphire     
  • Water Resistance: 5 ATM
  • Crown: Push/pull         
  • Movement: Miyota 8218
  • Strap/bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet
  • Price: Approximately $435 – $490
  • Reference Number: AV-4073-11, AV-4073-22, AV-4073-33, AV-4073-44

The Supermarine Spitfire was developed in 1934 and would eventually become one of the most recognized and important aircrafts ever created. It was a pillar of the Royal Air Force throughout World War II, and continues to capture the imagination of history buffs, pilots, and watch lovers alike. This, of course, is not the first watch to bear the Spitfire name – IWC has produced a line of pilot’s watches under the Spitfire name for many years. AVI-8’s tribute to the Spitfire is of course very different from IWC’s series of wattches, which are really designed as tools for aviators. The Spitfire Type 300 Automatic Edition is more akin to a history lesson in the form of a physical object. 

As with other AVI-8 watches, the Spitfire Type 300 Automatic takes many design cues right from the famous fighter plane on which it is based. Some of those design cues are obvious (the winding rotor is cut in the shape of the Spitfire), and some are much more subtle (the shape of the crown is a reference to the nose of the propellor). The most important design element is likely the lines of the case itself, which are modeled after the shape of the plane, something that should be easily identifiable to anyone who has spent time studying the Spitfire. In practice, what that means for the watch is a quite elegant case shape, that appears would hug the natural curvature of most wrists with ease. 

AVI-8’s dials are always a great opportunity for the brand to get incredibly specific with references to the planes that are the inspiration for their timepieces. Naturally, the dial has an instrument like appearance, using gauges and readouts from vintage Spitfires as inspiration for the design. The hands have been designed with legibility in mind (fitting for any watch that has anything at all to do with aviation) and key dial elements are covered in yellow lume (or white, depending on the dial variant chosen), providing an appropriate vintage aesthetic for a watch of this type. 

Four color variants are available, and all are actually quite subdued. You can have your choice of dials in blue, green, black, or gray, and all are available on three-link oyster style bracelets. Some of these AVI-8 editions can go well over the top with on-the-nose tributes to aircraft visible right on the dial, but the Spitfire is more sober, and more obviously suitable as a normal watch than some of its counterparts. This was the right move by AVI-8 – the Spitfire is so iconic, it simply doesn’t need lavish treatment that other, less familiar aircraft might have received. 




The Spitfire Type 300 Automatic will retail between $435 and $490 depending on the dial and bracelet configuration. AVI-8 will be officially launching the watch soon, so be sure to sign up to receive more information as it becomes available via their website. AVI-8

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среда, 12 февраля 2020 г.

Timex Goes Mechanical With the All New M79 Automatic

When Timex launched the Q last summer, it became a hit almost immediately. Sold out for months on the Timex website (but, at press time, available here), the simple but stylish vintage inspired quartz watch traded for a substantial premium on watch forums and resale outlets, and there was a long stretch of time when it seemed like you couldn’t open Instagram without being inundated with Q photos. It was as much of a phenomenon as we’ve seen in the value driven watch space in recent years. Still, some complained. Watch lovers are a finicky bunch. While many were thrilled with a meticulously detailed quartz throwback (complete with a battery hatch on the caseback) some die hard enthusiasts vocalized a strong preference for a mechanical movement. And even though the the red and blue “Pepsi” bezel was historically accurate to the original Q, some watch fans just want to watch the world burn, and prefer a darker, perhaps more “Batman-esque” palette. Well, Timex heard their fans, and have delivered on a watch that many have been conjuring in their mind since the reintroduction of the Q last year. Let’s take a look at the new M79 Automatic.


Timex M79 Automatic

  • Case Material: Stainless steel 
  • Dial: Black
  • Dimensions: 40mm 
  • Crystal: Acrylic    
  • Water Resistance: 50 meters
  • Crown: Push/pull        
  • Movement: Japanese Miyota 8000-series
  • Strap/bracelet: Stainless steel woven bracelet
  • Price: $279
  • Reference Number: TW2U29500
  • Expected Release: February 12

This isn’t a hard watch to understand. What we have here is the now familiar and hugely popular Q case shape, but with an automatic movement inside, and a black and blue dive bezel replacing the 12 hour Pepsi bezel. The case is slightly larger than the Q at 40mm, but the proportions and case lines seem to have been reproduced quite effectively. Vintage touches like the Mercedes hour hand, the mixing of rectangular and circular lume plots, and a period correct woven bracelet have also been ported over to the M79.

While the Timex Q was essentially a reproduction of a watch that actually existed in Timex’s back catalog, it’s an interesting development that subsequent releases in this line are fresh ideas that use the Q as inspiration, rather than simply copying it. Readers will remember that Timex also released the Q Falcon Eye last year, which used a slightly different case shape and gold accents to suggest a watch with more of a late 80s Miami vibe, even though that particular watch was simply a product of the imagination of the current Timex design team. Similarly, the new M79 looks familiar, but is actually entirely new, and speaks to the coherence in Timex’s strategy of building a line of watches with very specific roots in 70s and 80s design cues. 

The M79 (the “M” here stands for “mechanical”) uses a Japanese automatic movement, that is visible through the display caseback. In spite of the unidirectional dive bezel, this watch is not meant for great depth, although it is rated to 50 meters of water resistance, so day to day splashes here and there shouldn’t trouble it too much. At $279 it’s a full $100 more expensive than the Q, but still a good value for a mechanical watch with a time tested, enduring design. The M79 is available right now on the Timex website, so definitely head over there to place your order quickly if you want one, as the previous incarnations of this watch have been hard for Timex to keep in stock. Timex

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понедельник, 10 февраля 2020 г.

Hamilton’s Latest Field Watch Mixes Old and New in Titanium

Virtually every brand, large and small, has tried their hand at the simple field watch. While straightforward in design, they are surprisingly hard to get right. If you try too hard to distinguish your design from the rest of the pack, you risk a dial or case that’s far too busy for its good, negating the entire purpose of a field watch. Too stark, on the other hand, can have drawbacks as well. Losing visual interest might not be a primary concern, but when you have to make choices about hour and minute tracks and their associated markers, you’re playing with a user’s ability to tell the time at a quick glance. Hamilton, of course, is no stranger to field watches, but unlike most brands they’ve been at it since the literal invention of this style of timepiece, back in the days when pocket watches needed to be converted to wrist wear for military use. As the decades marched on, Hamilton never really stopped producing field watches, perfecting the design in the years of the second World War, when consumer watch production was halted to produce watches for the military. Today, Hamilton’s field watches build on that long tradition, while using modern materials and technology that make them relevant for today’s consumer.


Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium

  • Case Material: Titanium
  • Dial: Silver, black
  • Dimensions: 42mm
  • Crystal: Sapphire     
  • Water Resistance: 100 meters 
  • Crown: Push/pull         
  • Movement: Hamilton H-10
  • Strap/bracelet: Leather
  • Price: Approximately $945-$995
  • Reference Number: H70665533; H70545550
  • Expected Release: March

The Khaki Field Titanium is Hamilton’s newest field watch. It adheres pretty closely to the classic field watch formula at an initial glance, with three distinct dial sectors counting off minutes, hours, and a 24 hour scale within the innermost ring. Legibility is great – aided by the clear and crisp printing of the numerals and the mixing of dial textures, which effectively breaks up the dial, bringing your eye right where it needs to go. 

Two versions of the Khaki Field Titanium are available:  a bare metal version with a silver dial, and a black PVD coated version with a black dial. The bare metal version is the more traditional of the two, with the black version being decidedly sleeker and more modern. That said, the natural gray-titanium color of the silver dialed version gives the watch a tactical look that it shares with its blacked out sibling. 

Titanium is a great material for a field watch. It’s lightweight, and allows a watch (even one that’s on the larger side) to feel unobtrusive on the wrist. The Khaki Field Titanium comes in at 42mm, and while some purists may bristle at a case size over 40mm for a watch that’s meant to discreet, this is a very wearable size for a modern watch, and it should be quite comfortable on the wrist given its titanium case. Hamilton has outfitted the watch with their excellent H-10 automatic movement with a full 80 hours of power reserve. 



The Khaki Field Titanium will be available in March. The retail price in the bare metal finish is $945, and the black PVD version is $995. Hamilton

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