You can now stay at this stunning Airbnb castle for just £13 a night

A Weekend North of The Border

Affordable and sustainable holidays: where to go in 2020

Going flight-free in 2020? Try these cool Euro breaks minus the carbon footprint

A Weekend North of The Border

Affordable and sustainable holidays: where to go in 2020

Going flight-free in 2020? Try these cool Euro breaks minus the carbon footprint

A Trip to Niigata’s Phallic Shoki Festival

Along the Agano river, deep within Niigata Prefecture are several small villages. Each one supposedly participates in maintaining a long religious folk tradition, found dating back to the late Edo period involving deities named Shoki-sama. During the annual Shoki Festival, each village fashions it’s own life-sized deity out of straw giving special attention to its (male) genitalia.

Originally a Chinese deity, Shoki-sama is a so-called ‘demon-queller,’ who guards against illness and evil.

Upon learning about this, I had several questions. Were these local customs still upheld? And what was the significance of the phallus involved? With a brisk chill still in the air from a lingering winter, I headed out with a certain Dr. T to explore these remote areas of the Japanese countryside and investigate further.

Off to Niigata

Going off a clue from a very ratty looking book Dr. T had procured, we set out in our rental car aiming for the old road.

“It shouldn’t be too far from central Niigata”. Dr. T advised me as we came off the motorway.” But I am just a little concerned that our shrine will be buried in a mound of snow. That’s why I brought you along.”

Wonderful. Dr. T got me to catch the first train from Tokyo on a Saturday morning to go and dig out a shrine lost somewhere in the vast countryside of Niigata. I keep my thoughts to myself and take a sip of my morning Blendy coffee, sinking deeper into the passenger seat.

“I hope our map is accurate. There’s a lot of snow-covered shrines out there.” I sulk, already missing my warm bed back home.

Our snow-covered shrine.

Incidentally, Dr. T is the affectionate nickname for the idiosyncratic Dr. Stephen Turnbull. British historian and academic, he’s a specialist in Japanese military history and eastern religion. I had the pleasure of sitting in on his incredibly popular course “Samurai and the Sacred” back in my university days. It’s no exaggeration to say he’s a modern-day Indiana Jones, but perhaps not as athletic.

It wasn’t long before we were nearing our destination. Most other cars had vanished from the road and convenience stores proved surprisingly difficult to find.

Lining the narrow road were several prominent flags, a sharp red in contrast to the winter landscape around us, bearing the name of our deity. There was no mistaking this was the place to be today!

After parking, we wandered to the small wayside shrine hidden in a cluster of trees. Inside were three men huddled around a kerosene fire drinking sake and eating rice crackers. They paid us no attention as we stood in front of the frosted glass doors, and it wasn’t until I knocked and began sliding one open that they looked up at us.

What the heck is a Shoki anyway?

Photo: AGA Tourism Association

Shoki-sama are guardians against evil.

We were just in time. The locals had begun making the parts for this year’s Shoki and were at the community center down the road. One of the men, the local priest, would be performing the ceremony later that afternoon. Right now, however, it was break-time, so they invited us inside for a chat. It seems the tradition was still alive and kicking!

After the locals have constructed him, the priest will bless the figure and deify him, creating a god of what was once a straw-man.

Inside, the priest explained a little about Shoki-sama. Originally a Chinese deity, Shoki-sama is a so-called “demon-queller,” who guards against illness and evil. Quite a guy to have around the village! The festival is one of several in the area. Local residents gather together to fashion a fantastic straw figure to symbolize the shoki deity bearing a huge… male member.

After the locals have constructed him, the priest will bless the figure and deify him, creating a god of what was once a straw-man. He would then be put in place of the previous year’s god behind the shrine to protect the village, and the old Shoki-sama would be tossed out in the woods to rot and return to nature.

“In fact”, the priest says, “you can go out back right now and pay your respects to the Shoki-sama of last year!”

“Well, we’d better be quick then!” we chuckle. “And while we’re at it, we can take a look at the one in the neighboring village. It’s supposed to be twice the size,” Dr. T quips.

“The phallus..?” I inquire.

“No, the figure itself. The phallus is roughly four times as big,” Dr. T replies, matter-of-factly.

Apparently, the neighboring deity had been freshly re-created in the shrine atop the hill, just inside the forest entrance and was sporting a phallus to put even the biggest contenders to shame.

But why is it so… big?

Phalli are used in many different ways in Japanese folk religion. Some are used to pray for fertility, both human and agricultural, while others are used as protective symbols of power and strength to ward off evil. Others still might be found combined with the female genitalia, to show the harmony between male and female elements.

In the case of the Shoki, his phallus is a masculine symbol of power and strength. I guess he needs it to scare off the evil spirits.

A short climb up the hill and we find our academic gold. A huge straw Shoki-sama, sitting spread-eagle in a secluded wooden shrine in the middle of a forest. This place has a sacred, untouched feel. So far off the beaten track and so well hidden that you really have to know what you’re in search of to find it.

Last year’s Shoki-sama abandoned in the forest.

We weren’t disappointed. In front of the colossal Shoki-sama were offerings of oranges, sake and rice crackers. In addition, some old-looking swords, evidently the Shoki’s armaments.

In between his devilish horns and triumphant weapons was something much fiercer. A huge phallus bound together with straw pointing out like an armed shotgun. It was made all the more atmospheric by the carefree feel of his arms, seemingly tucked away behind his head, giving an air of superiority.

Checking around the back, we found a steep slope falling down into the woods and, sure enough, a smattering of straw and body parts. They were remnants of last year’s deity disposed of just one week earlier to rot and return to nature, symbolizing the ritual cleansing to bring in a new year.

No television crews or herds of stalls selling phallic sweets like so many other so-called ‘penis festivals.’ This is a very private affair with deep roots.

Back in the village, the local community was assembling the parts to another Shoki. After a toast with some sake, we witnessed them energetically hoisting it atop their shoulders and charging down the local street towards the shrine. Just a bunch of locals, me, and Dr. T. No television crews or herds of stalls selling phallic sweets like so many other so-called “penis festivals.” This is a very private affair with deep roots.

Once at the shrine, the locals proceeded to take the old Shoki-sama down and put up the new one, attaching him to a huge tree, adding horns, a hat, and swords to his belt. A fine specimen indeed. The old Shoki-sama was then deposited rather unceremoniously in a grove of trees out back. It was a majestic sight to behold. An old, spent god being given back to nature, looking out over the mountains of the Niigata countryside, phallus pointing towards the heavens.

The locals were done with their work for the day and after paying their respects, promptly returned to the community center for drinks and food. Meanwhile, inside the shrine, the priest began the deification process. We were the only guests.

Wishing him farewell, we returned to our car to plot the next route. We had dozens more phallic shrines to visit. All in a day’s research with Dr. T.

To learn more about this intimate, hyper-local Niigata tradition, visit the Aga Tourism Association website (Japanese only).

The Spinoff guide to air travel etiquette

You may not be punching strangers’ seats, but there’s plenty of other behaviour that is guaranteed to make your fellow passengers seethe with rage. Here’s how to travel by plane without making people hate you.

You’ve probably seen the video: a woman leans back in her reclined seat as a man punches the back of her headrest. Punch, punch. Punch, punch. Punch, punch. It’s a hypnotic, horrifying depiction of quietly psychotic male rage. The ensuing ‘debate’ over who was right and who was wrong – the reclining woman or the man literally punching at the back of her head – has an obvious answer, but it’s also highlighted the fraught ethical minefield that is the economy class cabin on a long haul flight. Who gets the armrests? Can I wear bare feet? Do I have to switch seats just because someone asks nicely? Below, we answer your most pressing air travel etiquette questions once and for all.

@BravoAndy Here’s a great jackhole! He was angry that I reclined my seat and punched it about 9 times – HARD, at which point I began videoing him, and he resigned to this behavior. The other jackhole is the @AmericanAir flight attendant who reprimanded me and offered him rum! pic.twitter.com/dHeUysrKTu

— wendi (@steelersfanOG) February 9, 2020

Reclining

The reclining woman/punching man uproar has distorted people’s understanding of what should be a very simple dictum: Recline at night. Sit up during the day. If you find this rule hard to remember, ask yourself: is this a part of the day when I would normally be lolling around like a Roman senator at dinner? If not, sit your arse up straight. And if someone in front of you does recline and you’d prefer they didn’t, be an adult and ask them politely to give you more room.

Carry-ons

You may only put one carry-on bag in the overhead locker. You must put it in length-ways, not horizontally, and you must use the locker above your seat unless it’s completely full. And if you’re travelling alone and your case is too heavy for you to lift into the locker unaided, you’ve packed too much. Rethink your packing list, spring for checked luggage, or get into a relationship, stat.

Armrests

As a window-seat-sitter, it pains me to say it, but the armrests – yes, both of them – belong to the middle seat. It’s only fair.

Feet

Socks yes, bare feet no, and if you’re worried even in the slightest that your feet might smell, bring clean socks to change into. Do not slide your feet between the headrests. Do not stick your feet into the aisle. Do not, for the love of god, give your friend a pedicure. Here I need to make a confession: until the internet told me otherwise, I believed it was fine to wear socks into the bathroom. It’s not, unless you’re OK with using your feet as some kind of ultra-absorbent urine-and-faeces mop. And I shouldn’t have to say it, but you should never, under any circumstances, wear bare feet into a plane toilet. Who raised you?

Hair

Congrats to the ponytailed young woman in seat 22B. You’ve invented a whole new way to be awful at 35,000 feet. pic.twitter.com/VWTPMI5JrM

— Dante Ramos (@danteramos) March 29, 2016

Only a truly evil person who knew that scissors can’t be brought into the cabin would ever dare. If you ever encounter a situation like this (and it’s not as uncommon as you might think), the only correct response is to quietly open your tray table, carefully arrange the strands back in place, and close that table up nice and tight. Then sit back and wait.

Window shades

Just because you’re in charge of it doesn’t mean you have the right to lower it during daylight hours. All that wondrous, cloud-refracting, quasi-celestial high-altitude light belongs to everyone in your row, so suck it up and bring an eye mask if you plan to sleep before the sun goes down.

Food

You may not bring on board hot food of any kind, even if that rule would prevent this gripping story of a teenager, her burgers and a nation-spanning mystery from ever happening at all.

Stop press: My colleague Simon asks, “Is it OK to ask for two meals? Asking for a friend.” Yes, it is OK to ask for a second meal, but only at the end of the meal service when everyone else has been fed. If meal trays have not yet been collected, don’t get out of your seat to go hunting for seconds – use your buzzer to call the attendant.

Switching seats

People for whom you are obliged to give up your seat: elderly people, parents of young children, people who need a new seat because of health reasons. People for whom you are not obliged to move: honeymooning couples, tall people, people who’ve dreamed all their lives of seeing Manhattan from a plane window (reserve a window seat next time, sucker). Of course, this doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t move – you are a good person with a kind heart, after all – just that you don’t need to feel bad about saying no.

Unacceptable. (Photo: Getty Images)

Sleeping

You may wake up a sleeping seat-mate if they’re invading your space (nobody should be expected to put up with a stranger’s head on their shoulder), if they’re snoring so loudly you can’t hear the quiet bits in 1917, or if you need to pee. You may not wake them up to let them know the meal trolley is coming by.

Drinking

Do not get lit on a plane. You wouldn’t get drunk and rowdy on the bus or in a coffee queue, two other places where you’re surrounded by stressed-out strangers who just want to block out the world/infuse caffeine into their bloodstream in peace. As on land, so in air. You may think you’re hilarious when drunk but trust me and everyone unlucky enough to be seated near you – you really, really aren’t.

Disembarking

Hey, if you want to pop up like a meerkat sensing danger the moment the seatbelt light is turned off, knock yourself out. Given that it can take anything up to half an hour to disembark an international flight, your behaviour is befuddling but ultimately harmless.

But no matter how desperate you are to abandon the travelling trash heap in which you’ve been imprisoned for the past 12 hours, you still must respect the Sacred Order of the Airplane Rows. No rushing down the aisle with your suitcase in hand because you are a Very Important Person. No tutting behind someone taking an extra 10 seconds to get her bag down. No queue jumping, period. The rare exception is when you are in danger of missing a connecting flight – in which case you may ask politely to go ahead. As in all things plane etiquette-related, a bit of calm communication can go a long way.

11 Places Where You Can View Paris from Above

You’ve got the pictures of clinking Champagne glasses at high-tea, Impressionist art, and hidden streets, but something’s missing: that view of Paris in all its glory.

The streets radiating from the Arc de Triomphe, the Eiffel Tower standing strong over the Seine, the resilient facade of Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral. Here’s where you can get a view of Paris from above.

1. Tour Montparnasse

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Paris en majesté Magnifiques photos de la Tour Eiffel et des Invalides réalisées de nuit de l’Observatoire panoramique de la Tour Montparnasse. Photo: Marc Ausset Lacroix / @Bestimage

A post shared by Paris Match (@parismatch_magazine) on Dec 27, 2019 at 3:33am PST

It may not be an attractive building, but you’re not looking at the building so what does it matter? Pay the 18 euros to get to the 57th floor then head out to the observation deck. A 360-degree, unobstructed view of the city awaits. Get a night view until 11:30 p.m. during summer months and 10:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. during winter months (details here). — 33 Avenue du Maine, 75015

2. Musée d’Orsay

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Mon cœur Sacré-Cœur ⁠ .⁠ @frenchlydoesit⁠ / @jennhugs⁠ .⁠ .⁠ #levraiparis #montmartreaddict #montmartreforever #thisisparis #unlimitedparis #pariscityvision #paris_focus_on #museedorsay #muséedorsay #ig_paris #igersparis #parisjetaime #paris_focus_on #merveillesdefrance #pariscartepostale #weloveyouparis #seemyparis #parissecret #see_my_paris #pariscityworld #passionpassport #loves_france_ #beautifulmatters #uniqueperspectives #museedorsayparis #muséedorsay #museedorsayclock #dorsay #fromparis #momentarylocals

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Up on the top floor of the museum housed in an old train station there is a café. Behind it is the face of a clock, through which you can see Sacré-Cœur high on its hilltop. You won’t be allowed into the café to peek through the clock unless you’re dining there, so either get in line to be seated or stand back and zoom your camera in until you’ve got a nice view of Paris. — 1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 75007

3. 45-47 rue Piat

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130 years old and she couldn't be anymore beautiful #eiffeltower130⠀ .⠀ @frenchlydoesit⠀ .⠀ .⠀ #eiffeltower #paris #toureiffel #belleville #lagrandedame #viewfeombelleville #latoureiffel #eiffeltowerviews #igersparis #parismaville #weloveparis #paris_maville #parisstairways #colorfulapartments #parisfrance #secretviews #bluesky #cielbleu #journey #bellevilleparis #parcdebelleville #parisparks #greenspaces #greenspacesparis #urbanjungle #secretparis #my_secretparis #paristraveler #igers_paris

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For the most unique view over the city, head to the address 45-47 rue Piat in Belleville. Under an iron arch and down a tree-sheltered path, there is a stairwell, accented with black street lamps. Down the stairwell is a series of colorful buildings that lead to a view of the Eiffel Tower, framed by a cascade of lush tree branches. Once you’re done there, follow the pathway around for another view of the Paris skyline. Once you’re done looking over the city, take a walk through the Parc de Belleville. — 45-47 rue Piat, 75020

4. Galeries Lafayette

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The Opera

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An approximately 270-degree view awaits you on the seventh floor of this grand magasin. It’s so good it’s basically a highlight reel of the best of Paris’s landmarks: Palais Garnier, the Eiffel Tower, Sacré-Cœur… The terrasse is free to visit and accessible year-round. Go up at night (Galeries Lafayette is open until 8 p.m.) for a view of the Eiffel Tower glowing. — 40 Boulevard Haussmann, 75009 

5. Square Nadar

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#thisisparis . @frenchlydoesit . . #communityfirst #myparis #parissunset #couchesoleil #montmartre #eiffeltowersunset #TopEiffelTowerPhoto #soleil #toureiffel #paris_maville #ouiparis #oui_maparis #eiffeltower #parisnights #jadoreparis #parismonamour #top_paris #top_parisphotos #bestof_paris #topfrancephoto #topeuropephoto #hello_france #super_france #igersfrance #visitfrance #merveillesdefrance #parigi #igersparis #timeoutparis

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Near Sacré-Cœur but with far fewer tourists, Square Nadar is just below the basilica and above the funiculaire. Park yourself on a bench and look out over the city’s rooftops. The sun sets in the perfect spot for a lovely pink-orange view in the evening. Perhaps best of all, unlike on the steps of Sacré-Cœur, you won’t be elbowing tourists and standing on tip-toe to see the view. — 2 Rue Saint-Eleuthere, 75018

6. Centre Pompidou

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An unexpected view from the Centre Pompidou ⁠ .⁠ @frenchlydoesit⁠ .⁠ .⁠ #paris #france #parisjetaime #igersparis #parisbyfoot #americaninparis #parisjetaime #parisweloveyou #francophiles #thisisparis #cityoflight #unlimitedparis #igersparis #iloveparis #instaparis #Igers_Paris #ParisMaville #ParisMonAmour #francophile #Loves_Paris #pariscartepostale #jaimelafrance #francefr #centrepompidou #pompidou #beaubourg #rooftopsofparis #parisskyline #parisapartments #paris_focus_on

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Ride the escalator up the front of Paris’s museum of contemporary art (you can do this without visiting the museum for just 5 euros). Below, the street performers and artists hawking their goods, the picnickers and perusing tourists will grow smaller and the endless rooftops will appear. Spot the Eiffel Tower and Notre-Dame Cathedral in the distance. At the top, there’s a restaurant, Brasserie Georges. It’s quite expensive, so there’s no shame in doing a u-turn and riding the escalator back down. — Place Georges-Pompidou, 75004

7. Sacré-Cœur

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Un pasajero con destino de ser feliz

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Sacré-Cœur is not only beautiful on the inside and out, it’s also a great vantage point. Put on your comfiest shoes and climb the 300 steps to the top of the basilica. The view at the top is as far and wide as the stairs up are steep and narrow. Hours are every day from 8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. (May to September) and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (October to April); admission rates vary. — 35 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre, 75018

8. Eiffel Tower

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My head's in the

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From muse to vantage point, the Eiffel Tower is a multi-purpose structure. The art of the Haussmann boulevard — and Paris’s lush green spaces in warmer months — are on perfect display from 984-feet high in the air. Take a turn around the top level to get a view of all the different monuments and areas. — Champ de Mars, 5 Avenue Anatole France, 75007

9. Printemps du goût

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An unexpected view @printempsdugout⁠ .⁠ Click the link in bio to learn more about this gourmet food hall with a view.⁠ .⁠ @frenchlydoesit⁠ .⁠ .⁠ #paris #toureiffel #parisjetaime #wanderlustparis #iloveparis #parisfrance #parisfromabove #ig_paris #seemyparis #parisianlife #francophile #haussmann #cityphotography #parisweloveyou #weloveparis #parismonamour #thisisparis #travelingcreatives #Loves_Paris #pariscartepostale #jaimelafrance #printempsdugoût #printempsdugout #grandmagasin #thisisparis #see_my_paris #pariscityworld #unlimitedparis #pariscityvision #eiffeltower

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Grab a bite to eat at this fancy food hall and sit in one of the booths or outside on the terrasse to get the best view of the city. Besides the view, the food itself is quite good, made by Laurent Dubois, Christophe Michelak, and Gontran Cherrier. It may be pricey, but the view, free wifi, outlets to charge your phone, atmosphere, and happy belly make it worth it. — 59 Rue de Caumartin, 75009

10. Parc des Buttes Chaumont

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Automne . . . . . . . . #parc #butteschaumont #balade #automne #view #montmartre #sacrecoeur #templedelasybille #sunset #sunsetlovers #paris

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Parc des Buttes Chaumont has some unique views of the city thanks to its rolling hills and unobstructed views of Paris to the northwest. The best view is from the Temple de la Sybille, 150 feet above the lake, on an island connected by a bridge. You can see more views of the city on Avenue Cascade and one of the large lawns.  — 1 Rue Botzaris, 75019

11. Arc de Triomphe

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Sorry we're not sorry that we're obsessed with the Gray Lady #eiffeltower⠀ .⠀ @jcafill⠀ .⠀ .⠀ #paris #toureiffel #parisjetaime #wanderlustparis #parisbyfoot #iloveparis #parisfrance #parisfromabove #ig_paris #seemyparis #parisianlife #francophile #haussmann #cityphotography #parisweloveyou #soleil #parisgram #skyline #gustaveeiffel #frencharchitecture #frenchdesign #french #weloveparis #parismonamour #thisisparis #travelingcreatives #Loves_Paris #pariscartepostale #jaimelafrance

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At the top of a historic monument, admiring other historic monuments. The Eiffel Tower, the Champs-Elysées, La Défense, the streets shooting out in all directions, the Haussmann structures, Le Grand Palais… it’s all visible from the 360-degree view atop the Arc de Triomphe. Pay your 13 euro ticket and climb to the top for a breathtaking view. — Place Charles de Gaulle, 75008 

Bonus: the seasonal Grande roue de Paris

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Even at night, the Iron Lady shines bright . @jcafill . . #latoureiffel #latoureiffel #latoureiffelparis #paris #eiffeltower #france #parisjetaime #parisbyfoot #eiffel #eiffeltower #eiffeltowerparis #eiffeltowerview #highcontrast #graylady #greylady #ironlady #ironmaiden #parismonuments #monumentsdeparis #parislandmark #parislandmarks #parisianlandmark #cloudynight #nightfall #parisnights #nightinparis #moonshine #eiffeltoweratnight #sungonedown

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Because it’s only around for less than two months a year (and its annual appearance in recent years has been questionable due to disagreements between the wheel’s owner and the city of Paris), we decided to include La Grande Roue de Paris as a bonus view. The wheel arrives in the winter months, usually around the same time as the holiday markets begin to pop up, and provides a panoramic view of Paris. Adult tickets are 12 euros to go around the wheel three times. In 2019 it was in the Jardin des Tuileries. It should be announced in late-summer whether or not the wheel returns for the winter holidays.

A Weekend North of The Border

Words: Sarah Hayman

What to See

For Edinburgh first timers then it would be rude not to tick off the trusty favourites. Pop on your boots and climb to the top of Arthur’s Seat for views across the city, take a quick pit stop and drop in to the Sheep Heid to enjoy one of Edinburgh’s oldest pubs complete with skittle alley. (If you’re more Manolo than Millets then the view from Carlton Hill is less strenuous and almost just as rewarding).

Check out the Parliament buildings and Palace of Holyrood: The Queen’s official Edinburgh residence has stately rooms open to the public and there’s almost always a decent art exhibition to please the culture vulture inside.

The Royal Mile runs from the Palace to the Castle and it’s worth a saunter, taking in the tourist traps, sampling some whisky and securing your souvenir fix. Get a pic of the castle for the gram and then head to one of the mile’s many cafes for a well-earned rest bite.

Edinburgh though is really the city built for ambling. Take a stroll across the bridges, chill out in Princes Street Gardens, wander the cobbled streets of Victoria Street and The Grassmarket, and get your shopping fix in the upmarket streets of New Town.

The Food & Drink

Start as you mean to go on with breakfast or brunch at the New Town Fox. Devour generous portions of your favourite classics whilst mixing with locals, tourists, young and old in this friendly local eatery.

Carnivores should head to the Chop House, Market St, for melt in your mouth steaks. The meat is dry aged in-house, cooked on their josper grill and then served up in a stripped back, modern setting that’s all exposed brick and industrial fittings. The cocktails aren’t bad either!

For cosy laid-back gastro pub vibes, but where the food is still top notch, head to Edinburgh’s trendy Stockbridge and sample the local fayre at Scran and Scallie. Brainchild of Michelin starred chefs Tom Kitchin and Dominic Jack, the changing seasonal menu and pies don’t disappoint.

Splash the cash and celebrate in style at Michelin Starred Martin Wishart’s venture The Honours, serving up a classic French menu with the finest Scottish ingredients. Inside and cocooned in chocolate and gold interiors, Edinburgh’s bustling streets seem a million miles away. Start with a glass of champagne and the haggis bon bons to really whet your appetite.

If you’re after a fiesta then start your night at El Cartel for the freshest Mexican street food washed down with naughty mezcal cocktails. If you’re still standing at the end of your night then stop by newbie Lady Libertine’s art deco basement bar with strong DJ line up.

Veggies and Vegans are well catered for at Indian favourite Dishoom, family run trattoria Novapizza or try the healthy salad bar at Hendersons

Where to stay

No newcomer to the Air BnB scene there’s a myriad of choice, whether you want a modern city penthouse, an old school tenement or a posh new town townhouse Edinburgh delivers. This Royal Mile loft took our fancy, check it out here.

Topping and tailing Edinburgh’s North Bridge are the city’s most famous hotels, The Balmoral and The Scotsman. Both deliver sumptuous rooms and the perfect mix of modern luxury sensitive to their historical backdrop. The opulent interiors of the Scotsman’s Grand Café are not to be missed and with doors open to non-residents we’d suggest sampling the Afternoon Tea, a steal at £29.95 including champagne.

Getting there

Trains to Edinburgh Waverley leave London Kings Cross every half an hour, take around 4 and a half hours, and drop you right in the city centre.

Alternatively British Airways and Easy Jet both fly several times a day, take the convenient airport bus (£4.50/£7.5) or jump in a taxi (£20-25) to be in town within 30 minutes.

 

For more travel updates follow @haymans_adventures

The post A Weekend North of The Border appeared first on Marie Claire.

A Weekend North of The Border

Words: Sarah Hayman

What to See

For Edinburgh first timers then it would be rude not to tick off the trusty favourites. Pop on your boots and climb to the top of Arthur’s Seat for views across the city, take a quick pit stop and drop in to the Sheep Heid to enjoy one of Edinburgh’s oldest pubs complete with skittle alley. (If you’re more Manolo than Millets then the view from Carlton Hill is less strenuous and almost just as rewarding).

Check out the Parliament buildings and Palace of Holyrood: The Queen’s official Edinburgh residence has stately rooms open to the public and there’s almost always a decent art exhibition to please the culture vulture inside.

The Royal Mile runs from the Palace to the Castle and it’s worth a saunter, taking in the tourist traps, sampling some whisky and securing your souvenir fix. Get a pic of the castle for the gram and then head to one of the mile’s many cafes for a well-earned rest bite.

Edinburgh though is really the city built for ambling. Take a stroll across the bridges, chill out in Princes Street Gardens, wander the cobbled streets of Victoria Street and The Grassmarket, and get your shopping fix in the upmarket streets of New Town.

The Food & Drink

Start as you mean to go on with breakfast or brunch at the New Town Fox. Devour generous portions of your favourite classics whilst mixing with locals, tourists, young and old in this friendly local eatery.

Carnivores should head to the Chop House, Market St, for melt in your mouth steaks. The meat is dry aged in-house, cooked on their josper grill and then served up in a stripped back, modern setting that’s all exposed brick and industrial fittings. The cocktails aren’t bad either!

For cosy laid-back gastro pub vibes, but where the food is still top notch, head to Edinburgh’s trendy Stockbridge and sample the local fayre at Scran and Scallie. Brainchild of Michelin starred chefs Tom Kitchin and Dominic Jack, the changing seasonal menu and pies don’t disappoint.

Splash the cash and celebrate in style at Michelin Starred Martin Wishart’s venture The Honours, serving up a classic French menu with the finest Scottish ingredients. Inside and cocooned in chocolate and gold interiors, Edinburgh’s bustling streets seem a million miles away. Start with a glass of champagne and the haggis bon bons to really whet your appetite.

If you’re after a fiesta then start your night at El Cartel for the freshest Mexican street food washed down with naughty mezcal cocktails. If you’re still standing at the end of your night then stop by newbie Lady Libertine’s art deco basement bar with strong DJ line up.

Veggies and Vegans are well catered for at Indian favourite Dishoom, family run trattoria Novapizza or try the healthy salad bar at Hendersons

Where to stay

No newcomer to the Air BnB scene there’s a myriad of choice, whether you want a modern city penthouse, an old school tenement or a posh new town townhouse Edinburgh delivers. This Royal Mile loft took our fancy, check it out here.

Topping and tailing Edinburgh’s North Bridge are the city’s most famous hotels, The Balmoral and The Scotsman. Both deliver sumptuous rooms and the perfect mix of modern luxury sensitive to their historical backdrop. The opulent interiors of the Scotsman’s Grand Café are not to be missed and with doors open to non-residents we’d suggest sampling the Afternoon Tea, a steal at £29.95 including champagne.

Getting there

Trains to Edinburgh Waverley leave London Kings Cross every half an hour, take around 4 and a half hours, and drop you right in the city centre.

Alternatively British Airways and Easy Jet both fly several times a day, take the convenient airport bus (£4.50/£7.5) or jump in a taxi (£20-25) to be in town within 30 minutes.

 

For more travel updates follow @haymans_adventures

The post A Weekend North of The Border appeared first on Marie Claire.

INTRODUCING THE FLOATING ARCTIC BATH HOTEL IN SWEDEN

A new hotel called The Arctic Bath has just opened in Sweden and it’s gone straight to the top of our travel wish list. This totally unique hotel in Harads, Swedish Lapland, is centred around a circular building that floats on the river during the summer, which freezes over in winter, leaving the hotel surrounded by ice. Pretty cool huh?

At the centre of the floating building is an open air ice cold plunge pool, which is the star feature of the hotel’s wellness experience. There’s also saunas and spa treatment rooms for massages and detox therapies.

The boutique hotel, with its sleek modern Scandi design, has six floating cabins as well as land cabins on the shoreline. Although the land cabins do look just as nice, you’re really going to want the floating experience if you’re going all that way (it’s a 70 minute drive from the nearest airport Lulea). Depending on the time of year you visit, you can experience the midnight sun in summer, or the Northern Lights in winter, and each cabin has a private terrace, giving you a front row seat.

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There’s also an ever changing five course dinner menu using sustainable local produce, plus proper Arctic activities such as snow walks and husky sled riding.

The Arctic Bath looks absolutely incredible and although at £700 a night it doesn’t come cheap, it’s sure to be an amazing experience. We’re saving pennies in the piggy bank already.

arcticbath.se

INTRODUCING THE FLOATING ARCTIC BATH HOTEL IN SWEDEN

A new hotel called The Arctic Bath has just opened in Sweden and it’s gone straight to the top of our travel wish list. This totally unique hotel in Harads, Swedish Lapland, is centred around a circular building that floats on the river during the summer, which freezes over in winter, leaving the hotel surrounded by ice. Pretty cool huh?

At the centre of the floating building is an open air ice cold plunge pool, which is the star feature of the hotel’s wellness experience. There’s also saunas and spa treatment rooms for massages and detox therapies.

The boutique hotel, with its sleek modern Scandi design, has six floating cabins as well as land cabins on the shoreline. Although the land cabins do look just as nice, you’re really going to want the floating experience if you’re going all that way (it’s a 70 minute drive from the nearest airport Lulea). Depending on the time of year you visit, you can experience the midnight sun in summer, or the Northern Lights in winter, and each cabin has a private terrace, giving you a front row seat.

• 
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There’s also an ever changing five course dinner menu using sustainable local produce, plus proper Arctic activities such as snow walks and husky sled riding.

The Arctic Bath looks absolutely incredible and although at £700 a night it doesn’t come cheap, it’s sure to be an amazing experience. We’re saving pennies in the piggy bank already.

arcticbath.se

French Bee Will Launch a New York-Paris Route on June 10

Choices are never a bad thing, especially when it comes to buying airfare. Good news for those in the tristate area, French Bee will be launching a new New York-Paris route this summer.

Starting June 10, 2020, the low-cost French airline will offer flights daily departing from Newark (EWR) at 11:55 p.m., arriving the next day at Paris Orly (ORY) at 1:20 p.m. The flight from Paris Orly to Newark departs at 7:45 p.m. and arrives at 10 p.m. the same day. Three types of tickets will be available: one-way basic, starting at $139, which includes a carry-on bag; one-way smart, starting at $209, which includes a carry-on bag, one checked bag, and a meal; and one-way premium, starting at $469, which includes a seat in Premium Blue class, two checked bags, a carry-on, a meal, and a snack. Upgrades such as seat selection, extra legroom, and priority boarding are available for additional costs.

French Bee presently has direct flights from Paris to French Polynesia, Tahiti, Reunion Island, Punta Cana (DR), and San Francisco. Reservations for the New York-Paris flight are already open.

French Bee Will Launch a New York-Paris Route on June 10

Choices are never a bad thing, especially when it comes to buying airfare. Good news for those in the tristate area, French Bee will be launching a new New York-Paris route this summer.

Starting June 10, 2020, the low-cost French airline will offer flights daily departing from Newark (EWR) at 11:55 p.m., arriving the next day at Paris Orly (ORY) at 1:20 p.m. The flight from Paris Orly to Newark departs at 7:45 p.m. and arrives at 10 p.m. the same day. Three types of tickets will be available: one-way basic, starting at $139, which includes a carry-on bag; one-way smart, starting at $209, which includes a carry-on bag, one checked bag, and a meal; and one-way premium, starting at $469, which includes a seat in Premium Blue class, two checked bags, a carry-on, a meal, and a snack. Upgrades such as seat selection, extra legroom, and priority boarding are available for additional costs.

French Bee presently has direct flights from Paris to French Polynesia, Tahiti, Reunion Island, Punta Cana (DR), and San Francisco. Reservations for the New York-Paris flight are already open.

Here's why Ibiza is still the world's ultimate party destination, andmore

Ibiza has a well-deserved reputation as the world's best party destination, but this island has so much more to offer from world-class cuisine to intrepid hikes

Why go to Ibiza …

Whether you’re seeking sunset yoga or all night hedonism (or both) this magical island delivers. Its little wonder the tiny Balearic paradise draws seven million visitors each year and so many of us come back again and again. Just two hours from the UK, there really is no better weekend escape to recharge or indulge yourself this summer. But with so many hotels, restaurants, bars and clubs to choose from, how to choose between them all? Don’t sweat, we’ve done it for you.

When…

The best time to travel to Ibiza is from May to October, but there is something happening on the island all year round and if you go at the beginning or end of the season, you’re guaranteed warm sunny days, lively bars and perfect sunsets without the crowds.

Stay at…

(Photo Credit: La Mimosas)

The new boutique hideaway La Mimosas hotel, a 4-star hidden gem in San Antonio Bay, just 3KM outside the centre but a haven of tranquillity. Tucked away in a residential area and a popular lunch and dinner spot for locals, this is the chilled respite you’ll want after a crazy night out clubbing. Las Mimosas has been completely renovated by the Anadon family, owners of Café Mambo. With clean minimalist rooms in neutral colours that overlook a central pool with day beds, its vibe is more akin to a luxury villa.

(Photo Credit: La Mimosas)

This place has just the right amount going on, with a buzzing restaurant and bar plus great DJ’s popping in on weekend afternoons to get the party started around the pool. And yet it’s quiet enough not to be woken up with thumping beats in the early hours if you’re the ‘yoga at sunrise’ type. The icing on the cake? You’re only a 5 minute walk from the beaches of Es Pouet and Pinet Playa, and a short drive to Cala Bossa and Cala Conta. The legendary Café Mambo (arguably the best place to enjoy a cocktail and watch the sunset on the entire island) is also just a 10 minute drive away.

The Sunset at Café Mambo (Photo Credit: Egnyte)

Eat and drink…

The food in Ibiza is as legendary as the night life and the island is awash with great restaurants and bars, but you’d be hard pressed to find a better lunch spot in Ibiza (or anywhere else for that matter) than Cala Gracioneta El Chiringuito in St Antonia. Once a tiny beach shack serving beer and snacks, this place has evolved since 1999 and now serves staggeringly good food overlooking the most crystal clear and picturesque little bay on the island (perfect for a post lunch swim). The vibe is relaxed and friendly, the service impeccable and the seafood paella the best we’ve tasted… ever. We also loved the sharing platters, perfectly cooked whole sea bass and the octopus house special. All were surprisingly reasonably priced too and beautifully presented. Make sure you have one of the cocktails. The Ibizan Sour (Spanish brandy shaken with the island’s herbal liqueur Mambo Hierbas, fresh lemon juice and cane sugar) is a must.

(Photo Credit: Cala Gracioneta)

For dinner, book your table in advance at Casa Maca hotel and restaurant. You’ll be very pleased you did. This romantic cliff top hotel and farm just outside Ibiza old town, is a really special place, and the restaurant is hands down the best place for a relaxed dinner before hitting the clubs for a night out just 10 minutes drive away. 300 years old and situated high up above the town, its worth a visit just for the view of the imposing Delta Vila skyline from its tables out on the alfresco terrace. Its little wonder that it serves as a popular wedding venue. The USP of the restaurant here is its grill, an impressive and theatrical open fire at the centre of the restaurant where chefs can be seen cooking an array of fresh meat, seafood and farm-grown vegetables. Dinner is accompanied by live music from local artists and international DJs, while cocktails are served from an aluminium airstream caravan out back. The vibe is achingly cool, and the views to die for. Discovering Casa Maca is like being let in on a well-kept secret that feels too good to share. Open all year round, Casa Maca – which translates to beautiful house in the local Ibizan dialect – offers the truly authentic Ibiza experience.

(Photo Credit: Casa Maca)

Don’t miss…

The Parties! Our pick of the bunch are at Hi. This award-wining club regularly hosts the biggest DJ’s and musicians on the planet and draws hundreds of thousands of revellers every year. From the beautiful design of the indoor and outside areas, to the quality of the sound systems and light displays, it’s the most sophisticated and all round brilliantly fun night out in Ibiza. Try to catch South African DJ Black Coffee if he’s in town on a Saturday night. Sunday nights it hosts the fabulously camp Glitterbox. Both are outstanding.

While you’re there…

Seethe island by boat. Sunset Boats Ibiza offer a range of trips for up to 10 people including water sports – a great way to while away the afternoon or blow your hangover away.





Book now:

There are many airlines who fly to Ibiza but we recommend flying with British Airways, for a quality travel experience without the queues and bun fight for seats. Trust us, your body will appreciate it on the way home and fares are very reasonable from around £80 return if you book in advance.  Junior suites at Las Mimomas are from £190.

The post Here's why Ibiza is still the world's ultimate party destination, and more appeared first on Marie Claire.