Deep Dive — A Closer Look At The Glashütte Original Spezialist Collection

New collections appear and disappear in the watch industry relatively frequently, but these days it’s not that often that a brand jumps headlong into a category or genre that they aren’t as well known for. Just such an occasion materialized midway through last year, as Glashütte Original came to market with the Spezialist Collection. What we have here is a new category of tool watches from the brand that started with a trio of watches; the SeaQ, the SeaQ 1969, and SeaQ Panorama Date. While the SeaQ 1969 was a limited production run of only 69 pieces, featuring a few nominal design cues that further link it to its predecessor, the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, from (you guessed it) 1969, the SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date models are pillars of this new collection.

Though similar in essence, there are some vast differences, both visual and technical, between the SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date models. Where one clearly targets the vintage design-loving subset of collectors, the other takes on an already strong field in the modern luxury dive watch category. In both camps there are quite a few competitors to battle, but Glashütte Original being who they are, the approach taken was thoughtful, with ample attention paid to the finest of details. The SeaQ Panorama Date is presently offered in either a black or blue sunray finished dial, whereas the SeaQ is only on offer in black—at least for now. Both variants can be had on a rubber strap, a grey synthetic mesh, or fitted with a stainless steel bracelet. We’re especially fond of the micro-adjustment of the steel bracelet, activated by depressing the Glashütte Original logo. This bracelet has been in use by the brand since 2005, where it was first developed for the Sport Evolution model.

Where It All Started

As previously noted, Glashütte Original isn’t—nor has it ever been—known as a tool watch or dive watch brand. That said, the range of models from its predecessor Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe was quite diverse, especially through the ’60s and ’70s. It was in the interest of diversification that Glashütte Original opted to target the dive watch segment, and though not particularly well known or collectible, the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 proved to be an ideal base upon which to model a new dive watch offering.

Leveraging Heritage

When looking at the SeaQ model, there’s no questioning that the piece is aimed squarely at the vintage-inspired diver segment. Thankfully, a keen eye for detail has always been the hallmark of Glashütte Original’s watch design, and the SeaQ is no exception.

On its dial, details like the choice of a light beige printing on its indices—a color aptly named ‘old radium’ by Glashütte Original, its minute track configuration, and white box surrounding its date window are all directly carried over from the Type RP TS 200. The limited edition (and currently sold-out) SeaQ 1969, meanwhile, differs in that it has green luminous hands, creating a two-toned look—an homage to the original Spezimatic Type RP TS 200. (Another key difference: the SeaQ 1969 also has “25 rubis shockproof” printed on the dial, plus the watch’s edition number engraved on the base plate.)

One of the benefits of the brand owning their own dial manufacturing facility in Pforzheim, Germany is that the initial design and prototyping phase is much quicker and more fluid than if they were to rely on a contractor. Making changes to refine things during the design process is a much less costly and time consuming affair, and thus allows for an ever greater level of fine-tuning.

Looking at the case itself, its 39.5mm diameter, oversized guard-less crown, and domed crystal continue to echo this vintage sentiment. Really, the use of a ceramic bezel insert is the only obvious giveaway from giving the piece an initial glance, as even the design of the tropic rubber strap is appropriately “period correct.”

Embracing Modernity

The SeaQ Panorama Date, unlike its sibling, is much more current in terms of both aesthetics and overall execution. Yes, the style of its indices, hands, domed crystal, and bezel remain intact, but that’s where the similarities end. The ‘old radium’ color has been replaced with applied indices filled with white Super-LumiNova for the blue dial and green Super-LumiNova on the black dial version of the watch.

Its case size has also been increased to a much more substantial 43.2mm across and 15.65mm thick. A key reason for these increased dimensions is the larger self-winding Calibre 36-13 that powers the new release—a movement that is also quite modern in specification.

Though its finishing remains traditional, the Calibre 36-13 is no regular movement. First introduced with Glashütte Original’s Senator Excellence collection, the 4 Hz caliber runs a silicon balance spring — a first for the brand — bolstering both its resistance to magnetism and general running stability. Though using a single mainspring barrel, the piece is capable of holding a power reserve of 100 hours, all while passing a litany of stringent tests of the entire watch over a 24-day period — a rigorous quality assurance procedure that we will discuss in another upcoming feature.

Looking through its exhibition caseback you’ll note the 21k gold mass affixed to its winding rotor. Though a nice visual touch, this is done as much for function as it is aesthetics; given the added length and rigidity of its mainspring, and increased mass is required to maintain proper self-winding.

The Glashütte Original SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date are priced from $8,700 and $11,200 respectively.

Learn More About The Glashütte Original SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date Here



The post Deep Dive — A Closer Look At The Glashütte Original Spezialist Collection appeared first on watchuseek.com.

Deep Dive — A Closer Look At The Glashütte Original Spezialist Collection

New collections appear and disappear in the watch industry relatively frequently, but these days it’s not that often that a brand jumps headlong into a category or genre that they aren’t as well known for. Just such an occasion materialized midway through last year, as Glashütte Original came to market with the Spezialist Collection. What we have here is a new category of tool watches from the brand that started with a trio of watches; the SeaQ, the SeaQ 1969, and SeaQ Panorama Date. While the SeaQ 1969 was a limited production run of only 69 pieces, featuring a few nominal design cues that further link it to its predecessor, the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, from (you guessed it) 1969, the SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date models are pillars of this new collection.

Though similar in essence, there are some vast differences, both visual and technical, between the SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date models. Where one clearly targets the vintage design-loving subset of collectors, the other takes on an already strong field in the modern luxury dive watch category. In both camps there are quite a few competitors to battle, but Glashütte Original being who they are, the approach taken was thoughtful, with ample attention paid to the finest of details. The SeaQ Panorama Date is presently offered in either a black or blue sunray finished dial, whereas the SeaQ is only on offer in black—at least for now. Both variants can be had on a rubber strap, a grey synthetic mesh, or fitted with a stainless steel bracelet. We’re especially fond of the micro-adjustment of the steel bracelet, activated by depressing the Glashütte Original logo. This bracelet has been in use by the brand since 2005, where it was first developed for the Sport Evolution model.

Where It All Started

As previously noted, Glashütte Original isn’t—nor has it ever been—known as a tool watch or dive watch brand. That said, the range of models from its predecessor Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe was quite diverse, especially through the ’60s and ’70s. It was in the interest of diversification that Glashütte Original opted to target the dive watch segment, and though not particularly well known or collectible, the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 proved to be an ideal base upon which to model a new dive watch offering.

Leveraging Heritage

When looking at the SeaQ model, there’s no questioning that the piece is aimed squarely at the vintage-inspired diver segment. Thankfully, a keen eye for detail has always been the hallmark of Glashütte Original’s watch design, and the SeaQ is no exception.

On its dial, details like the choice of a light beige printing on its indices—a color aptly named ‘old radium’ by Glashütte Original, its minute track configuration, and white box surrounding its date window are all directly carried over from the Type RP TS 200. The limited edition (and currently sold-out) SeaQ 1969, meanwhile, differs in that it has green luminous hands, creating a two-toned look—an homage to the original Spezimatic Type RP TS 200. (Another key difference: the SeaQ 1969 also has “25 rubis shockproof” printed on the dial, plus the watch’s edition number engraved on the base plate.)

One of the benefits of the brand owning their own dial manufacturing facility in Pforzheim, Germany is that the initial design and prototyping phase is much quicker and more fluid than if they were to rely on a contractor. Making changes to refine things during the design process is a much less costly and time consuming affair, and thus allows for an ever greater level of fine-tuning.

Looking at the case itself, its 39.5mm diameter, oversized guard-less crown, and domed crystal continue to echo this vintage sentiment. Really, the use of a ceramic bezel insert is the only obvious giveaway from giving the piece an initial glance, as even the design of the tropic rubber strap is appropriately “period correct.”

Embracing Modernity

The SeaQ Panorama Date, unlike its sibling, is much more current in terms of both aesthetics and overall execution. Yes, the style of its indices, hands, domed crystal, and bezel remain intact, but that’s where the similarities end. The ‘old radium’ color has been replaced with applied indices filled with white Super-LumiNova for the blue dial and green Super-LumiNova on the black dial version of the watch.

Its case size has also been increased to a much more substantial 43.2mm across and 15.65mm thick. A key reason for these increased dimensions is the larger self-winding Calibre 36-13 that powers the new release—a movement that is also quite modern in specification.

Though its finishing remains traditional, the Calibre 36-13 is no regular movement. First introduced with Glashütte Original’s Senator Excellence collection, the 4 Hz caliber runs a silicon balance spring — a first for the brand — bolstering both its resistance to magnetism and general running stability. Though using a single mainspring barrel, the piece is capable of holding a power reserve of 100 hours, all while passing a litany of stringent tests of the entire watch over a 24-day period — a rigorous quality assurance procedure that we will discuss in another upcoming feature.

Looking through its exhibition caseback you’ll note the 21k gold mass affixed to its winding rotor. Though a nice visual touch, this is done as much for function as it is aesthetics; given the added length and rigidity of its mainspring, and increased mass is required to maintain proper self-winding.

The Glashütte Original SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date are priced from $8,700 and $11,200 respectively.

Learn More About The Glashütte Original SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date Here



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Watch of the Day: The IWC Aquatimer Split Minute Chronograph

Continuing on our exploration of eBay’s authenticate program once again—their buyer protection/authenticity verification program that launched a little while back—we’re onto another pre-owned gem that we’d just about forgotten about since its discontinuation back in 2009. We’re talking about the IWC Aquatimer Split Minute Chronograph, an out-of-the-ordinary diver chronograph with a total of three separate means of timing events. This sounds like overkill—and in many respects it is—but I’ve always had an interest in out-of-the-ordinary complications and this thing entirely fits the bill.

For those who follow IWC’s reference numbers, this is the 3723-04. In production for a fairly brief stint from 2004 to 2009, the line of GST Aquatimers was the brand’s follow-up to their collaborations with Porsche Design on the Ocean 2000.  It’s cased in titanium, and fitted with an integrated bracelet (as is oddly all the rage these days). The bracelet is fitted with a clean single-fold clasp, but it pre-dates the brand’s sleek micro-adjustment that came on later models. The lightness of titanium helps keep the Aquatimer from feeling like a behemoth on the wrist, though it’s worth noting that a rubber strap variant is also available.

Those used to smaller watches are often scared off of pieces like this based on their larger dimensions alone, but much in the same way that my Girard-Perregaux Laureato Evo3 wears much smaller than its specs would suggest (it’s also 44mm on paper), The way the integrated rubber strap drops down from the case makes this piece hug the wrist nicely, rather than being a big, broad, and flat wrist pancake (like some larger IWC models out there).

Functionally, things are relatively straightforward here. On the right, you have your traditional pusher and crown layout; the start/stop pusher is at two, screw-down crown for time setting at three, and reset pusher at four. The lower pusher has added functionality to it, as you may have guessed from its added knurling. rotating this pusher also rotates its inner timing bezel.

Aside from these two timers, there’s now the matter of its split minute complication. Basically the split minute allows for timing within a timing period, I’ve heard of the example of timing the exploring of an underwater cave while timing a dive, but let’s get real here and own the fact that 98% of us aren’t diving. Let’s say you’re on your way to a new job, and you want to see how long it takes you to get from door to door (presuming your commute is less than an hour).

As you step out the door you rotate the timing bezel to align with the minute hand in its current position. You’re half way to work, and suddenly your train stops due to some sort of nonsense—cue the split minute. Trigger the toggle switch at eight o’clock, and a secondary minute hand that usually runs beneath the standard minute hand is paused. When the train starts again, you’ll be able to see the number of minutes elapsed during the unforeseen incident, and subtract it from total time once you get to the office to see how long your commute should take on a normal day. Clever, right?

OK, so this isn’t the most practical complication in the grand scheme of things, though if you use your chronographs for timing things in the kitchen then an additional timer could also come in handy. No matter how many of the three functions you’re considering putting to use, the Aquatimer Split Minute Chronograph is a handsome tank of a watch, and one that’s usually pretty well priced on the secondary market.

Shop the IWC Aquatimer Split Minute Chronograph Here

 

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Watch of the Day: Frederique Constant Yacht Timer Collection

Even though it’s been nearly four years since Peter Stas and his partner Aletta sold the business to the mighty Citizen Group, they still spend at least two days a week overseeing the entire Frederique Constant operation and deciding upon all the new creations.

While connected watches represent fully 15% of sales for FC, and is what helps the brand to keep afloat, Peter personally still feels a strong connection to the sea. So perhaps he can be forgiven for his latest indulgence, a new Yacht Timer collection comprising five new models.

Changes to the countdown system for yacht races were changed at the 1996 Olympic Games in Atlanta. With an increase in the number of boat categories over the years, the time for successive starts had become too long. It was therefore decided to reduce the intervening time gap from 5 – 10 to 3 – 6 minutes.

Introduced in 1997, the Frederique Constant Yacht Timer was the first watch to integrate these new racing rules. It was developed barely 10 years after the founding of the brand in 1988. Now, twenty-two years later, the Regatta has made a comeback to the FC collection.

The new Frederique Constant Yacht Timer collection is not merely inspired by a love of the sea but is designed to be a functional tool—a competition timer, operational in yacht racing conditions.

The Regatta Yacht Timer comes with a built-in timing mechanism that can count down the vital 5 or 10 minutes before the official start of a sailing race. Though the initial start structure shifted in 1996, many professional organizations maintained the 10-minute start until 2001. Some recreational/amateur organizations will still abide by the 10-minute start, and accordingly most regatta timers will maintain the ability to count down more than just 5 minutes. A bad start in yacht racing can be disastrous, and in many respects, the most important part of a yacht race unfolds in those 5-10 minutes before the action begins.

This is when sailors must maneuver their vessel into the best start position without overstepping the imaginary starting line or worse, hitting another boat before the starter’s gun. Such mistakes have been known to cost millions in fines in top races such as the Americas Cup. Proper boat control is paramount, and that control comes from a team effort and knowing when to anticipate the gun. It’s a game of tactics demanding a precision instrument that can be read at a glance since sails have to be raised and then lowered in order to hold the position as close to this line as possible.

A regatta watch is essentially a modified chronograph with a countdown timer, and at sea with strong sunlight and sometimes questionable weather conditions, good visibility is critical.  The five circles at the top of the white dial remain white when the chronograph is not in use, but when activated with the 2 o’clock pusher, one by one they are filled with blue for the first five minutes and then orange for the next five minutes. The indexes of the watch are faceted so as to constantly display a shiny polished side that can be seen regardless of the angle of the sun, while the hands and indexes are filled with luminescent material for dull and overcast days.

Five New Models To Choose From

There are three models in the new 42mm Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown Collection: One is finished in rose gold with a navy-blue dial on a matching navy-blue alligator strap. The second features a blend of steel and rose gold on a two-tone bracelet. The third is in a monochromatic color scheme, with a steel case and silver-plated dial on a black alligator strap. Prices start at US$3,195.

There are also two new Yacht Timer GMTs with a second-time zone function. One features a rose gold-plated case with indexes and hands on a white grained dial and a brown alligator strap. And there’s bicolor steel and rose gold-plated steel bracelet variation finished in rose gold with grained anthracite dial. The watches also come with an extra rubber strap to take the rough and tumble of strenuous activities. Prices for the GMT version start $1,995.

Surprising Practicality

Let’s be fair here—these things are mighty niche, and we know it. That said, a Regatta/Yachting Timer has its own practicalities in day-to-day life. People who like to cook or spend time in front of the BBQ (our EIC Justin Mastine-Frost, for one) find good use for a regatta timer when keeping an eye out for the perfect time interval on the grill or in the pot. Given the dressy design and leather straps on these models they’ll be less practical for things like interval training, but a more casual-wearing Regatta Timer on a rubber strap could also be turned practical during your workout routine too. There are far less practical complications out there—the moon phase, for example—so even though this complication might seem obscure at first glance, don’t discount it too quickly

Shop the Frederique Constant Regatta Countdown Collection

The post Watch of the Day: Frederique Constant Yacht Timer Collection appeared first on watchuseek.com.

Watch of the Day: Frederique Constant Yacht Timer Collection

Even though it’s been nearly four years since Peter Stas and his partner Aletta sold the business to the mighty Citizen Group, they still spend at least two days a week overseeing the entire Frederique Constant operation and deciding upon all the new creations.

While connected watches represent fully 15% of sales for FC, and is what helps the brand to keep afloat, Peter personally still feels a strong connection to the sea. So perhaps he can be forgiven for his latest indulgence, a new Yacht Timer collection comprising five new models.

Changes to the countdown system for yacht races were changed at the 1996 Olympic Games in Atlanta. With an increase in the number of boat categories over the years, the time for successive starts had become too long. It was therefore decided to reduce the intervening time gap from 5 – 10 to 3 – 6 minutes.

Introduced in 1997, the Frederique Constant Yacht Timer was the first watch to integrate these new racing rules. It was developed barely 10 years after the founding of the brand in 1988. Now, twenty-two years later, the Regatta has made a comeback to the FC collection.

The new Frederique Constant Yacht Timer collection is not merely inspired by a love of the sea but is designed to be a functional tool—a competition timer, operational in yacht racing conditions.

The Regatta Yacht Timer comes with a built-in timing mechanism that can count down the vital 5 or 10 minutes before the official start of a sailing race. Though the initial start structure shifted in 1996, many professional organizations maintained the 10-minute start until 2001. Some recreational/amateur organizations will still abide by the 10-minute start, and accordingly most regatta timers will maintain the ability to count down more than just 5 minutes. A bad start in yacht racing can be disastrous, and in many respects, the most important part of a yacht race unfolds in those 5-10 minutes before the action begins.

This is when sailors must maneuver their vessel into the best start position without overstepping the imaginary starting line or worse, hitting another boat before the starter’s gun. Such mistakes have been known to cost millions in fines in top races such as the Americas Cup. Proper boat control is paramount, and that control comes from a team effort and knowing when to anticipate the gun. It’s a game of tactics demanding a precision instrument that can be read at a glance since sails have to be raised and then lowered in order to hold the position as close to this line as possible.

A regatta watch is essentially a modified chronograph with a countdown timer, and at sea with strong sunlight and sometimes questionable weather conditions, good visibility is critical.  The five circles at the top of the white dial remain white when the chronograph is not in use, but when activated with the 2 o’clock pusher, one by one they are filled with blue for the first five minutes and then orange for the next five minutes. The indexes of the watch are faceted so as to constantly display a shiny polished side that can be seen regardless of the angle of the sun, while the hands and indexes are filled with luminescent material for dull and overcast days.

Five New Models To Choose From

There are three models in the new 42mm Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown Collection: One is finished in rose gold with a navy-blue dial on a matching navy-blue alligator strap. The second features a blend of steel and rose gold on a two-tone bracelet. The third is in a monochromatic color scheme, with a steel case and silver-plated dial on a black alligator strap. Prices start at US$3,195.

There are also two new Yacht Timer GMTs with a second-time zone function. One features a rose gold-plated case with indexes and hands on a white grained dial and a brown alligator strap. And there’s bicolor steel and rose gold-plated steel bracelet variation finished in rose gold with grained anthracite dial. The watches also come with an extra rubber strap to take the rough and tumble of strenuous activities. Prices for the GMT version start $1,995.

Surprising Practicality

Let’s be fair here—these things are mighty niche, and we know it. That said, a Regatta/Yachting Timer has its own practicalities in day-to-day life. People who like to cook or spend time in front of the BBQ (our EIC Justin Mastine-Frost, for one) find good use for a regatta timer when keeping an eye out for the perfect time interval on the grill or in the pot. Given the dressy design and leather straps on these models they’ll be less practical for things like interval training, but a more casual-wearing Regatta Timer on a rubber strap could also be turned practical during your workout routine too. There are far less practical complications out there—the moon phase, for example—so even though this complication might seem obscure at first glance, don’t discount it too quickly

Shop the Frederique Constant Regatta Countdown Collection

The post Watch of the Day: Frederique Constant Yacht Timer Collection appeared first on watchuseek.com.

Flieger Friday: Geoffrey Roth HH7 Flieger

We begin the new era, or as some have named it the “Roaring 20’s”, with a surprising news from Arizona based watch brand, Geoffrey Roth Watch Engineering (GRWE). When GRWE announced a new pilot watch this week, it came as a surprise, since the brand is known for creating contemporary watches in variety of speciality materials. The first impression is an eclectic yet stylish flieger with elliptical case, grey lacquer Baumuster A style dial, bronze crown, and a unique strap.

Unlike other watch companies, GRWE has an interesting history. Geoffrey Roth, owner of the company, started out as an exclusive art and jewelry gallery in Sedona, Arizona in the mid-1970’s. As his art world collided with the watch world, his fascination for the mechanical watches inspired him to open Geoffrey Roth Watch Engineering in Sedona, Arizona, in the late 1990’s. Geoffrey being a talented self-taught engineer and watchmaker, hired two other technical experts to design and manufacture most of the watch parts (with exception of the movement) in-house. We met with Andy Archibald, who is the production manager, and he has a fascinating background himself. He was a successful gunsmith, who then took the challenge with GRWE to transition into precision engineering, with case manufacturing, dial manufacturing and printing, and even making tools for manufacturing special watch parts. Geoffrey invested in importing several traditional watchmaking tools from Switzerland, which are used and maintained by his team.

HH7 flieger is housed in a 42mm VAR 316L stainless steel case with matte finish. All GRWE cases have distinguishing shapes, this one is elliptical shaped with hidden strap bars, and concave case back. It is worthy to note that the case is engineered sculpture from a solid billet of steel rather than a ring of steel with lugs soldered on like traditional watch cases. The strap tubes are screwed-in with polished gold-plated screws. The massive phosphor bronze crown has an appearance of a jet engine, and features GRWE’s trademark ruby set around the tip. The domed sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on the inside. The concave case back provides the comfort of wearing the watch. The case back also has a convex sapphire crystal for viewing the movement.

The dial is lacquered in dark grey, and the numbers and markings are printed in light grey with SuperLuminova coating. The rounded sword shaped hands are heat-blued steel with SuperLuminova coating. HH7 is powered by reliable ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement that is decorated, and features GRWE’s in-house manufactured Tungsten rotor. Even though the strap shown with all the pictures is a  honey brown alligator strap (which can be ordered upon request), the watch will come with a proprietary rubber strap which will give the flieger a more functional appearance. GRWE has a generous and interesting warranty policy – six-year warranty, extended for another six years if the watch is returned to them for servicing between years five and six. The retail price for this American made flieger is $3,900.

This stylish flieger is an ideal companion to rent out a Harley Softail Deluxe, and hit the Northern Arizona roads to get your kicks on Route 66. It does have a higher price tag than most German fliegers, but boutique watches are expensive to make. However, there is room for customization, since GRWE specializes in bespoke watchmaking.

Learn More About Geoffrey Roth HH7 Flieger Here

The post Flieger Friday: Geoffrey Roth HH7 Flieger appeared first on watchuseek.com.

Flieger Friday: Geoffrey Roth HH7 Flieger

We begin the new era, or as some have named it the “Roaring 20’s”, with a surprising news from Arizona based watch brand, Geoffrey Roth Watch Engineering (GRWE). When GRWE announced a new pilot watch this week, it came as a surprise, since the brand is known for creating contemporary watches in variety of speciality materials. The first impression is an eclectic yet stylish flieger with elliptical case, grey lacquer Baumuster A style dial, bronze crown, and a unique strap.

Unlike other watch companies, GRWE has an interesting history. Geoffrey Roth, owner of the company, started out as an exclusive art and jewelry gallery in Sedona, Arizona in the mid-1970’s. As his art world collided with the watch world, his fascination for the mechanical watches inspired him to open Geoffrey Roth Watch Engineering in Sedona, Arizona, in the late 1990’s. Geoffrey being a talented self-taught engineer and watchmaker, hired two other technical experts to design and manufacture most of the watch parts (with exception of the movement) in-house. We met with Andy Archibald, who is the production manager, and he has a fascinating background himself. He was a successful gunsmith, who then took the challenge with GRWE to transition into precision engineering, with case manufacturing, dial manufacturing and printing, and even making tools for manufacturing special watch parts. Geoffrey invested in importing several traditional watchmaking tools from Switzerland, which are used and maintained by his team.

HH7 flieger is housed in a 42mm VAR 316L stainless steel case with matte finish. All GRWE cases have distinguishing shapes, this one is elliptical shaped with hidden strap bars, and concave case back. It is worthy to note that the case is engineered sculpture from a solid billet of steel rather than a ring of steel with lugs soldered on like traditional watch cases. The strap tubes are screwed-in with polished gold-plated screws. The massive phosphor bronze crown has an appearance of a jet engine, and features GRWE’s trademark ruby set around the tip. The domed sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on the inside. The concave case back provides the comfort of wearing the watch. The case back also has a convex sapphire crystal for viewing the movement.

The dial is lacquered in dark grey, and the numbers and markings are printed in light grey with SuperLuminova coating. The rounded sword shaped hands are heat-blued steel with SuperLuminova coating. HH7 is powered by reliable ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement that is decorated, and features GRWE’s in-house manufactured Tungsten rotor. Even though the strap shown with all the pictures is a  honey brown alligator strap (which can be ordered upon request), the watch will come with a proprietary rubber strap which will give the flieger a more functional appearance. GRWE has a generous and interesting warranty policy – six-year warranty, extended for another six years if the watch is returned to them for servicing between years five and six. The retail price for this American made flieger is $3,900.

This stylish flieger is an ideal companion to rent out a Harley Softail Deluxe, and hit the Northern Arizona roads to get your kicks on Route 66. It does have a higher price tag than most German fliegers, but boutique watches are expensive to make. However, there is room for customization, since GRWE specializes in bespoke watchmaking.

Learn More About Geoffrey Roth HH7 Flieger Here

The post Flieger Friday: Geoffrey Roth HH7 Flieger appeared first on watchuseek.com.

Hands-on: The Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver

As always, it seems like there are fewer hours in the day and days in the month than there should be. Amidst the backlog that is Watchuseek content I found myself staring at a screen—working on something that I simply didn’t have the heart for—and decided my last hours of 2019 deserved to be spent on something with passion and motivation behind it. This, my friends, is the last hands-on review of 2019; this is the Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver.

There are several reviews that need me to take ‘pen to paper’ soon, but as I stared into my personal watch collection this piece immediately sprung to mind. It’s one that I added to my personal collection not long after the initial review period this fall, and though said collection is anything but short on dive watches, the funky green Devil Diver still gets a fair amount of wrist time though we’re well past the “honeymoon phase”. Of the many benefits of still having the piece on hand, it has allowed for a deeper dive, so to speak, into the characteristics and quirks of the well-priced piece.

Because so many of us still set our go/no go parameters around dimensions, let’s start there. Yes, it’s 44mm across and 15mm thick, but it still works perfectly well on a smaller 6 3/4″ wrist. You can see in a series of wrist shots here, the shorter lug-to-lug length (no spec, but I suspect around 49mm?) helps it from overhanging on the wrist, and the smaller diameter of its bezel in relation to the case itself further shrinks its overall presence. Does it wear like a vintage diver? No, of course not. It’s got heft and is anything but svelte or lightweight. I’m the first to admit that when it comes to more standard case proportions I’ll typically lean towards things 42mm and below, but the Devil Diver is one of many exceptions to the rule—much in the same way as most Aquadive watches or the Hamilton Pan-Europ.

This piece is yet another from Bulova’s Archive series, and one of now innumerable ‘vintage inspired’ watches to hit the market in the last 5+ years. I tend to flip flop a but when it comes to this topic. Some brands have legitimate history to draw from, as well as the ability to execute a vintage reissue thoughtfully. Others see a booming trend and go ‘hey, we should get in on this’. In the case of the Devil Diver, I’m especially familiar with its roots. I’ve owned one of the originals back in the day—not the specific reference this is built from, mind you.

Aside from its retro and very Doxa-like vintage cushion style case, the real hero with this watch is its dial. Down to every last detail—the color, the font choices, the hands, the indices—this thing is just a treat to stare at. The hour markers are unlike anything being done in the market today, using clear acrylic cylinders on top of a heavy coating of luminous material, this look is a pure and unfettered throwback to the late ’60s and early ’70s that just doesn’t appear in the modern watch market, let alone in the sub-$1k range. Of course the famed ‘666 FEET’ appears at the bottom of the dial text.

It’s worth noting that this piece isn’t just for show. Bulova ensured ISO compliance, and the Oceanographer Devil Diver is a proper diver’s watch. Its crown screws down as it should, and its bezel action is surprisingly firm given that they went for a 120-click version rather than 60. The clasp on its bracelet is a simple locking fold-over as you’d expect in the category, though I’d say this is one of a few shortcomings of the watch overall. Given the heft of the watch and bracelet, the folding elements of the clasp just feel a bit more flimsy than I would have hoped for.

In terms of other shortcomings, the use of acrylic for its bezel insert came as a bit of a surprise as well. While it’s more true to the vintage, I’m going to remain curious about how resilient it is to scuffs and scratches over time. Thanks to the bezel design and its box sapphire crystal, the bezel itself is thankfully well protected in the grand scheme of things.

The last gripe, and I know many of you have been shouting it since starting to read this review, is the choice of automatic movement. Yes, the Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver uses the Miyota 812A. This means no hacking seconds, and in some cases a slight stutter in its sweeping seconds hand. To the latter, granted it’s not my only watch and I’m not constantly watching it, I’ve not really noticed. Whether or not this bugs you, well, that’s personal. I’d like a hacking seconds hand, but at the same time, I love so much of the character of this watch that it wasn’t close to a dealbreaker for me.

At full-pop retail, you’re looking at $795, which all-in-all is a decent price, but because Bulova deals with a number of big-box retailers you can often find this and other versions of the watch on sale. Case in point, we’ve spotted it for $432 right now, which is pretty hard to beat.

Buy The Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver On Sale Here

Learn More Via The Bulova Website Here

The post Hands-on: The Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver appeared first on watchuseek.com.

Hands-on: The Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver

As always, it seems like there are fewer hours in the day and days in the month than there should be. Amidst the backlog that is Watchuseek content I found myself staring at a screen—working on something that I simply didn’t have the heart for—and decided my last hours of 2019 deserved to be spent on something with passion and motivation behind it. This, my friends, is the last hands-on review of 2019; this is the Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver.

There are several reviews that need me to take ‘pen to paper’ soon, but as I stared into my personal watch collection this piece immediately sprung to mind. It’s one that I added to my personal collection not long after the initial review period this fall, and though said collection is anything but short on dive watches, the funky green Devil Diver still gets a fair amount of wrist time though we’re well past the “honeymoon phase”. Of the many benefits of still having the piece on hand, it has allowed for a deeper dive, so to speak, into the characteristics and quirks of the well-priced piece.

Because so many of us still set our go/no go parameters around dimensions, let’s start there. Yes, it’s 44mm across and 15mm thick, but it still works perfectly well on a smaller 6 3/4″ wrist. You can see in a series of wrist shots here, the shorter lug-to-lug length (no spec, but I suspect around 49mm?) helps it from overhanging on the wrist, and the smaller diameter of its bezel in relation to the case itself further shrinks its overall presence. Does it wear like a vintage diver? No, of course not. It’s got heft and is anything but svelte or lightweight. I’m the first to admit that when it comes to more standard case proportions I’ll typically lean towards things 42mm and below, but the Devil Diver is one of many exceptions to the rule—much in the same way as most Aquadive watches or the Hamilton Pan-Europ.

This piece is yet another from Bulova’s Archive series, and one of now innumerable ‘vintage inspired’ watches to hit the market in the last 5+ years. I tend to flip flop a but when it comes to this topic. Some brands have legitimate history to draw from, as well as the ability to execute a vintage reissue thoughtfully. Others see a booming trend and go ‘hey, we should get in on this’. In the case of the Devil Diver, I’m especially familiar with its roots. I’ve owned one of the originals back in the day—not the specific reference this is built from, mind you.

Aside from its retro and very Doxa-like vintage cushion style case, the real hero with this watch is its dial. Down to every last detail—the color, the font choices, the hands, the indices—this thing is just a treat to stare at. The hour markers are unlike anything being done in the market today, using clear acrylic cylinders on top of a heavy coating of luminous material, this look is a pure and unfettered throwback to the late ’60s and early ’70s that just doesn’t appear in the modern watch market, let alone in the sub-$1k range. Of course the famed ‘666 FEET’ appears at the bottom of the dial text.

It’s worth noting that this piece isn’t just for show. Bulova ensured ISO compliance, and the Oceanographer Devil Diver is a proper diver’s watch. Its crown screws down as it should, and its bezel action is surprisingly firm given that they went for a 120-click version rather than 60. The clasp on its bracelet is a simple locking fold-over as you’d expect in the category, though I’d say this is one of a few shortcomings of the watch overall. Given the heft of the watch and bracelet, the folding elements of the clasp just feel a bit more flimsy than I would have hoped for.

In terms of other shortcomings, the use of acrylic for its bezel insert came as a bit of a surprise as well. While it’s more true to the vintage, I’m going to remain curious about how resilient it is to scuffs and scratches over time. Thanks to the bezel design and its box sapphire crystal, the bezel itself is thankfully well protected in the grand scheme of things.

The last gripe, and I know many of you have been shouting it since starting to read this review, is the choice of automatic movement. Yes, the Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver uses the Miyota 812A. This means no hacking seconds, and in some cases a slight stutter in its sweeping seconds hand. To the latter, granted it’s not my only watch and I’m not constantly watching it, I’ve not really noticed. Whether or not this bugs you, well, that’s personal. I’d like a hacking seconds hand, but at the same time, I love so much of the character of this watch that it wasn’t close to a dealbreaker for me.

At full-pop retail, you’re looking at $795, which all-in-all is a decent price, but because Bulova deals with a number of big-box retailers you can often find this and other versions of the watch on sale. Case in point, we’ve spotted it for $432 right now, which is pretty hard to beat.

Buy The Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver On Sale Here

Learn More Via The Bulova Website Here

The post Hands-on: The Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver appeared first on watchuseek.com.