With four restaurants and two bars to his name, not to mention overseeing the food at the Belmond Cadogan Hotel, Adam Handling has established quite the London empire. Adam Handling Chelsea, the restaurant attached to the hotel (though it's very much a standalone space with its own street entrance) has just turned one so we thought there was no better time to visit.
As part of the first birthday celebrations Adam has brought his classic tasting menu, which is a collection of favourite dishes from across all the restaurants, to Chelsea for the first time. And what a cracker of a menu. It kicked off with a snacks selection, including his famous cheese doughnuts, topped with a generous grating of more cheese and truffle, sourdough with chicken butter, and beef tartare on tapioca crackers.
Then it was a parade of faultless dishes, delivered with impeccable service. The first proper course was kingfish carpaccio with avocado and jalapeno, which was lifted but overpowered by those flashes of heat. Then it was one of Adam's signatures, the Mother – egg yolk and celeriac topped with truffle and green apple to cut through the richness. Two more fish dishes followed; lobster cooked in wagyu fat, which was as indulgent as it sounds, and a fantastic dish of cod, tomato and crab with a potent shellfish bisque split into the sauce.
A meat course of perfectly cooked Iberico pork with roasted cauliflower and kimchi to give it a kick followed, before a rhubarb and hibiscus dessert that managed to not be overly sweet even with panna cotta and meringue on the plate. A box of petit fours and tea, served in teapots dressed in cosies knitted by Adam's mum, rounded everything off.
Adam has managed to balance modern cookery with the heritage of the restaurant's surrounds and we're expecting him to celebrate many more birthdays here.
75 Sloane St, London SW1X 9SG
adamhandlingchelsea.co.uk
To read the article in English. London On The Inside
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